808 Buggy Parts List!

I was looking through your original list of options parts, and noticed one item you should update. The 355100 Active Diff is for the original XB8 to the EC, but not for the 808. The part number you want for the 808 Active Diff is 355102. This system will include the correct 43T ring gear and shorter outdrives for the 808. You could convert ta 355100 to work with the 808, but you will need the 355143 ring gear and 808 specific Active Diff outdrives (I will have to get the part number at work tomorrow). The cost of those pieces would not make a conversion justifiable, unless you have an Active Diff already.

The 352303 and 353303 offer some added adjustability to the suspension, but if you are just starting out, you may want to leave the stock pieces until you get comfortable with the car and are ready to tweak the setup to your driving. The optional plates do look fantastic, and they are a bit easier to deal with when you want to service the diffs. If you install them, you may just want to start with the equivalent to stock geometry unless you feel the setup needs some work. The same holds true for the steering plate, 252573. The stock plate is quite durable, so your main benefit would be to fine tune the aggressiveness of the steering. XRAY tried to simplify the stock pieces so that the setup was not overwhelming to most users. Durability of the stock parts is great, as many have commented on, and most of the options add some added tuning benefit(hinge pin holders, chassis braces, etc.). Having said that, man do the aluminum caster blocks look trick! I didn't plan to use them for mine, but after seeing the press release photos for them, I may have to get a set just for appearance! They are one of the coolest 'looking' options XRAY had produced!

As many 808 drivers have shared with us, only a couple of spring sets and oil weights to adjust the shock and diff package is all that is necessary to get the car close for most drivers and track conditions. Tires and the shock package are probably the most critical "option" pieces to get your car dialed in. When you start to fine tune the setup, these option pieces give you an added range of adjustment. I am a sucker for options, so I will probably add many of those same pieces to my conversion too, but my 808 is a much better car than I am a driver in its stock form!

Bryan

[pumpkinfish]

Just saw this thread. Wow you really didn't need all those hop-ups. My 777 needed them. In my experience, the aluminum chassis braces are too stiff unless you are on an indoor clay track. Keep the aluminum towers and ackerman plate as backups. The only hop-ups I put on mine were the carbon fiber center diff plate and carbon fiber front upper brace (steering brace). Oh yea I forgot that I put on the Losi lexan rear arm "mud flaps"...lol!

The one thing I highly recommend to all 808 owners is switching out the sway bars; they are way too stiff in my opinion. I went with 2.2 front and 2.4 rear and it feels awesome now.

Enjoy it as it is a really fun buggy to drive!

TDC57,

I checked on that part number for the 808 Active Diff outdrives, it is 355161 for the pair. You would need that and the 355143 gear if you want to convert the original 355100 Active diff to work with the 808.

Bryan

[TDC57]

Originally Posted by pumpkinfish

Just saw this thread. Wow you really didn't need all those hop-ups. My 777 needed them. In my experience, the aluminum chassis braces are too stiff unless you are on an indoor clay track. Keep the aluminum towers and ackerman plate as backups. The only hop-ups I put on mine were the carbon fiber center diff plate and carbon fiber front upper brace (steering brace). Oh yea I forgot that I put on the Losi lexan rear arm "mud flaps"...lol!

The one thing I highly recommend to all 808 owners is switching out the sway bars; they are way too stiff in my opinion. I went with 2.2 front and 2.4 rear and it feels awesome now.

Enjoy it as it is a really fun buggy to drive!

What's up Pumpkinfish (like the name!).
Yea I know, I know I don’t need all of those hop-ups parts, like many guys don’t need the blue pill either but they get it!..

As luck would have it the track that I'm running it at is a indoor clay track so see some of that bling will actually help.. . I actually haven’t decided to take apart my perfectly good running / driving buggy “to weigh it down & pretty it up” but if do that get that wild hair up my a$$ them I'm at least prepared for it..

I am going to order the referenced sway bars above (thanks for the tip ) and I'm going with one size heavy spring (light blue??) the reason being the bottom kept hitting the ground every time it landed off any size jump. We’ll see..

Thanks for the comments PF and have a great one..

Shaun.

[pumpkinfish]

Originally Posted by TDC57

I am going to order the referenced sway bars above (thanks for the tip ) and I'm going with one size heavy spring (light blue??) the reason being the bottom kept hitting the ground every time it landed off any size jump. We’ll see..

Thanks for the comments PF and have a great one..

Shaun.

Shaun,

If you are bottoming out try changing the pack of your shocks first. What setup did you use? If you go to RCTech, Rocco a factory Xray driver can give you some great pointers on the 808. Fortunately for me, he posted a starting setup for his local track which matches my local track description.

One thing I can say about the 808 is that is very sensitive to changes. I was practicing last night and played with a few things. Every time I made a change, it was very noticeable on the track the very next lap. I lowered the rear inner camber link to the lowest hole and wow was it a completely different car. I also put a thicker rear diff fluid in and the car was almost undriveable. I think for this car going with anything in the range of 1k-2k is the ticket. I am still playing with the front and center diff fluids. Also, I raised my ride height slightly and it was drastic. I found at my track that a high ride height is not a good a thing. I would set the ride height no higher than arms level and even that might be too high.

-John

[TDC57]

Originally Posted by Backfire

I was looking through your original list of options parts, and noticed one item you should update. The 355100 Active Diff is for the original XB8 to the EC, but not for the 808. The part number you want for the 808 Active Diff is 355102. This system will include the correct 43T ring gear and shorter outdrives for the 808. You could convert ta 355100 to work with the 808, but you will need the 355143 ring gear and 808 specific Active Diff outdrives (I will have to get the part number at work tomorrow). The cost of those pieces would not make a conversion justifiable, unless you have an Active Diff already.

The 352303 and 353303 offer some added adjustability to the suspension, but if you are just starting out, you may want to leave the stock pieces until you get comfortable with the car and are ready to tweak the setup to your driving. The optional plates do look fantastic, and they are a bit easier to deal with when you want to service the diffs. If you install them, you may just want to start with the equivalent to stock geometry unless you feel the setup needs some work. The same holds true for the steering plate, 252573. The stock plate is quite durable, so your main benefit would be to fine tune the aggressiveness of the steering. XRAY tried to simplify the stock pieces so that the setup was not overwhelming to most users. Durability of the stock parts is great, as many have commented on, and most of the options add some added tuning benefit(hinge pin holders, chassis braces, etc.). Having said that, man do the aluminum caster blocks look trick! I didn't plan to use them for mine, but after seeing the press release photos for them, I may have to get a set just for appearance! They are one of the coolest 'looking' options XRAY had produced!

As many 808 drivers have shared with us, only a couple of spring sets and oil weights to adjust the shock and diff package is all that is necessary to get the car close for most drivers and track conditions. Tires and the shock package are probably the most critical "option" pieces to get your car dialed in. When you start to fine tune the setup, these option pieces give you an added range of adjustment. I am a sucker for options, so I will probably add many of those same pieces to my conversion too, but my 808 is a much better car than I am a driver in its stock form!

Bryan

Hay Bachfire..
Thanks so much for the information. I’ll send out an email to the supplier and ensure that I get the proper parts.. (Thanks!!!)..

I saw the same Alum caster blocks (they do look trick!!) they are 39.99 each, but none are in stock. (I checked!)..

I understand what you saying about the Alum parts and appreciate the advise, I actually received them today and drove my 808 at the track for a good hour. I was extremely impressed with the 808 durability and it performance is outstanding, it goes rite where you point it.

So now I'm left with the dilemma, do open my nice new shinny bling parts and install them or do I first get used to my buggy, learn it’s limits and then start to improve on them and my driving skills???? (TBD)..

Thanks for your time Bryan.

Have a great one..

Shaun.