A few Maxx Questions..

[brushlessboy16]

meh, i was thinking of taking a Tmaxx rolling chassis and throw an 1/8th scale center diff on it, MM 5s and what ever motor..


I know i will need some bulks maybe Diff gears and some decent tires to compete...

Are they grey plastic bulk heads any good?


What causes the diff gears to fail? just weak parts or flexing between the two gears

The grey bulks are a smidge better than the older blacks - but won't be up to bl power. The stock 3.3 or 2.5 structure lets the diff cases twist apart or open slightly pulling the R&P out of mesh - get grinding and eventually either pinion rips teeth off ring gear, or pinion looses some teeth. The 2.5 has 4 small 2mm screws holding the diff cup to the ring - another weak point, don't know if 3.3 upgraded this or not. Neither are shimmed stock, so some are diffs work/last longer than others. The stock spyders are another weak point and a good nitro diff will eventually have a spyder failure.

Nitro solution is alum diff cases, alum diff brace, alum diff cup with 3mm screws and good shim job. BL power/torque - something like UE diffs and alum bilks or flm hybrids with ofna style diff gears. Nitro upgrades will last longer than stock, but will be a problem eventually. UE (and alum bulks) or hybrids will fix it pretty much for good. Then you'll need drive axles and center drives - fortunately the 3.3 stuff seems to do pretty well here.

[George16]

Originally Posted by Duster_360

The 2.5 has 4 small 2mm screws holding the diff cup to the ring - another weak point, don't know if 3.3 upgraded this or not. Neither are shimmed stock, so some are diffs work/last longer than others. The stock spyders are another weak point and a good nitro diff will eventually have a spyder failure.

They're the same on the 3.3.