WARNING! A new way for MMMs to fail including your precious V3!

If they come stock with a fan, you'd think they could get away with a slightly smaller heatsink. At least one that doesn't come so close to the power connectors with a small plastic piece buffering that area between the two. Either that or do away with the connectors and have pre-soldered wires coming out.

[Ryu James]

i have now loaded in my first of 4 v3 MMMs i have, or rather the first that i have recieved out of 4 that Castle owes me. everything seems good. Neu motor seems good and batt is ok too. thankfully. i was looking at it again trying to ascertain exactly what happened and the best that i can come up with is just what i mentioned before. i can see the other connector that sits against the heatsink so all that had to happen was for one more connector (the wrong one) to touch up against it.
so i inspected my v3 before installing and that is the one i put the tape around. as you can see i did not put tape around the positve battery connnector like i did all the other connectors. the reason i didnt put tape around that one is because it rests against the heatsink and i couldnt get tape around it. however, as long as all the others are covered it wont matter. anyway, this is definitely an issue that Castle should look into.

The other possibility is that the male connector slipped out of the female connector and as it did managed to end up resting on top of the female and against the heatsink causing the short. in this scenario anyone could fall victim, not just Tekno losi 8 owners. either way, none of this would have happened if the heatsink were smaller and/or if one connector didnt already touch the heatsink and/or if the heatsink were generally better protected from the connectors.

[Unsullied_Spy]

Originally Posted by 1maxdude

If they come stock with a fan, you'd think they could get away with a slightly smaller heatsink. At least one that doesn't come so close to the power connectors with a small plastic piece buffering that area between the two. Either that or do away with the connectors and have pre-soldered wires coming out.

I'd prefer it to have a big heatsink assisted by a fan, the cooler the better. I've got an old passively-cooled CPU sitting here with a similar heatsink on it Stock they're pretty tough, but when you ram a battery into them (was the case even on it when it was damaged?) things tend to bend. I'd prefer wires soldered to the board like all their other ESCs, but they insist this design is better

[lutach]

Here's my situation now. What if one doesn't have the 1mm space between the plugs and the heatsink, what do you do then?

[Unsullied_Spy]

Originally Posted by lutach

Here's my situation now. What if one doesn't have the 1mm space between the plugs and the heatsink, what do you do then?

Take a pic and E-Mail it to Castle. They'll have you send the ESC back and they'll send you a fixed ESC or a replacement within a month or two.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by Unsullied_Spy

Take a pic and E-Mail it to Castle. They'll have you send the ESC back and they'll send you a fixed ESC or a replacement within a month or two.

They couldn't have missed them :

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15249

[Unsullied_Spy]

Originally Posted by lutach

They couldn't have missed them :

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15249

I remember reading that post, that was pretty stupid that it came like that. IDK how it passed QC unless they don't check their ESCs before shipping them.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by Unsullied_Spy

I remember reading that post, that was pretty stupid that it came like that. IDK how it passed QC unless they don't check their ESCs before shipping them.

I'm still thinking if I should take the plugs out. If I do, I'm going to direct solder wires on there, but not facing up. I'll have the wires laying down and make a hole so they'll exit from the back. I would reather have them like that as most application will work better that way. It should be an option that the customer can select how they want there wires to be and if they want plugs and all.

[macr0w]

When I first saw the bullets on the newer MMM's I thought it was cool, until I installed it.

I would much rather have wire directly soldered to the board.

The bullets are just one more connector we don't need.

Not to mention the clearance issue. In a Revo or truggy I guess it's not such a big deal. But in a buggy with a tight body it is a big deal.

Gimmie my old style wires back.

I took the bullets off of my v3 and direct soldered the wires to the female side of the bullet at 90 degrees. So far so good.

[lincpimp]

I do remember that Patrick mentioned testing the MMM and that touching the heatsink to the bullet connectors did not do anything. He said that they could not cause a failure when they tested this issue...

I bent the fins away from the connectors on my MMMs but I may also put some shrink around them too. Time to take them all apart again!!! Whoo hoo.

[Tempted]

Originally Posted by Unsullied_Spy

I'd prefer wires soldered to the board like all their other ESCs, but they insist this design is better

The MMMs remind me of the first gen VXL systems that used the same design. It wasn't long before they updated it to wire leads with bullets. Castle should have learned from someone elses mistake.

[Unsullied_Spy]

Originally Posted by Tempted

The MMMs remind me of the first gen VXL systems that used the same design. It wasn't long before they updated it to wire leads with bullets. Castle should have learned from someone elses mistake.

My thoughts exactly. Patrick's response was that with the MMM's connectors being so much larger there was more solder holding it to the board so there wouldn't be a problem...I think if I end up buying one and it has bullets on the board I'll remove them in favor of wires.