Savage XL-E

[scarletboa]

why didn't you keep the savage slipper?

[Janezki]

It doesn't keep it's adjusted position, atleast I haven't succeeded in that.
It either slips too much or not at all, so this is supposed to be an upgrade.

[tklemin]

I've also noticed that you need to have the slipper pretty tight for the big motors. When you start to coil bind the little spring it will unevenly load the spur gear and cause it to spin in warped looking pattern. Then you back off the slipper to get it straight and the slipper slips. If anyone knows of a little larger or longer spring that might work it could be a useful mod. I think HPI is using the term slipper clutch very broadly here. A sticky backed piece of sandpaper is not a slipper clutch. I might see if I can fit 2 springs on the slipper.

[spiftacu1ar]

Kershaw designs has an upgrade kit that consits of two bellevile springs and a thrust washer. Here it is: http://204.186.93.64/SlipperSpring.htm

I am using that kit, and it helps a lot.

[tklemin]

cool I'll give it a shot.

[spiftacu1ar]

DOnm't mean to pop your bubble, but I don't think those batts are adequate for your setup. As rule of thumb, your continuous and burst amp ratings should be 25% more than the actual continuous amperage and burst amperage (in practice). You can get away with an 80 amp continuous rating, but to be on the safe side, I would say go for 100 (those are rated at 79.5, so 80). That is not where the problem lies. Your batts are rated at a burst rate of 106amps. According to your values above, 2442watts / 22.2v = 110 amps. Your burst amperage is less than the calculated amperage above. Your batteries may not be overheating now, but I thnk it may be a problem in the future. If not the batts, it will damage your ESC.
Sorry if I ruined your fun, I'm just trying to prevent you from losing expensive equipment.
--Spif

[Janezki]

You are correct in your calculations with one battery - I'm running those in parallel.

[spiftacu1ar]

oh sorry, i thought those were two 3s cells :P. My bad. Can I have a link please. I have been looking for 2 6s packs that would fit between the TVP's for a while. All of them were too long or too wide, but those seems perfect (i have the same setup as you, except with FLM tvp's instead of those). I also preordered my kersahw gearbox so that it would mount backwards be default instead of drilling new holes in the chassis.

[Janezki]

:) No problem.
http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...idProduct=9268
There you go - seem to be out of stock at the moment.
They're pretty much perfect fit between the tvp's.

[Janezki]

->Finally some video<-

Love this setup (did I mention it already?), no bigger mods will be made - this one's ready (sure!)...

[Bondonutz]

Great video, that bash spot is Tits ! I was woundering how you mamaged to shoot video and drive and at 6:11 I seen your shadow, LOL. You have your hands full.

[Savage03]

Awesome! Kill to have something like that by me even within driving distance. And the riding the half bowl was great!
Now to this very odd radio handling lol, credit for doing both driving and taping at once my man!

[Nard Cox]

LOVE the car man, it's brutally fast and has tons of power. Looks like those BadLands grip like hell :)

For filming : buy a TriPod to shoot the vids, you can concentrate on the driving more altough you're not bad at all with the driving and filming. When I want to film and drive I take my GorillaPod (sort of a tripod with three flexible legs) and put that on my transmitter (DX3S) works like a charm. How do you do this, one hand vid and the other transmitter?

Possible upgrade : center skid plate to keep the dirt out (or would this just lock it up inside?)

[Bondonutz]

How about a hard hat with a camera mount attached ?

[Nard Cox]

That would be even better! I do have a hat lying around here somewhere with a 'sun visor' (no idea how you say it). Worth giving it a shot altough most of the time I race with some buddies and we film using tri pods (see here).