anyone got a pics of the inside of the Castle Neu?

[BrianG]

You'd have to trim back the coil wire really far into the can, remove the varnish from the wires and make the connection. Sounds easy enough, but there are a couple problems with this for the average person:

1) stripping the varnish is done by a liquid solution. There is a possibility that the solution could wick up too far into the actual coils and short them out. Not good.

2) The motor can length for this type of setup needs to longer to allow room for those connections. Just look at the innards of a CC CM36 motor; the coils are actually a few mm shorter than a regular S can motor (same external size). So, it would be difficult to do this with a motor without that extra room in the back. And lets not even mention being able to make those connections without interfering with the insertion or operation of the rotor.

3) Connections shorting. Having soldered connections inside there is possible that they will short against the shell. You could heatshrink it, but that will wear away over time with the constant vibrations and such. Sure, this is possible, but not for your average novice solderer.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by BrianG

You'd have to trim back the coil wire really far into the can, remove the varnish from the wires and make the connection. Sounds easy enough, but there are a couple problems with this for the average person:

1) stripping the varnish is done by a liquid solution. There is a possibility that the solution could wick up too far into the actual coils and short them out. Not good.

2) The motor can length for this type of setup needs to longer to allow room for those connections. Just look at the innards of a CC CM36 motor; the coils are actually a few mm shorter than a regular S can motor (same external size). So, it would be difficult to do this with a motor without that extra room in the back. And lets not even mention being able to make those connections without interfering with the insertion or operation of the rotor.

3) Connections shorting. Having soldered connections inside there is possible that they will short against the shell. You could heatshrink it, but that will wear away over time with the constant vibrations and such. Sure, this is possible, but not for your average novice solderer.

does anyone know what kind of chemical solution is used to strip the varnish on the motor leads? i have tried the dremel steel brush and that doesnt work. i have tried the lighter and that doesnt work. and i have finally used a dremel sand disk and that worked but only on the outer layer of wire. so this finally got solder to stick but it doesnt actually penetrate the wire to make a good connection.

the good thing is that i havent cut the wire or anything. i just removed enough heatshrink to expose the varnished area to see if i could get this to work before i actually cut the wire shorter. if i cant find a way to strip that varnish i will just leave the wires the stock length and solder a butt-joint there. it would just look a lot cleaner if i can get the joint right up next to the can.

I have heard that you can use easyoff oven cleaner,just spray some in a cup and
use a small paint brush to brush in on.You can also try vinger and salt just like they use
to clean copper pennys it makes it all shiney and clean.