anyone got a pics of the inside of the Castle Neu?

[suicideneil]

If I wanted to achieve the same visual look on the neus as the MMM motor, I'd butt-joint solder the 10g wires to the wires sticking out the motors, then use some heatshrink tubing over the neat join, making sure it went right upto the motor can and inside a little even, to prevent movement from wearing through the insultion on the wires as pointed out. It wouldnt look exactly the same, but close enough to look good.

[slimthelineman]

this has worked very well for me thus far. thought about doing the solder inside the can jobber, but why risk destroying the stator in my opinion. would look better w/ full coverage heat shrink when i get around to it

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

this has worked very well for me thus far. thought about doing the solder inside the can jobber, but why risk destroying the stator in my opinion. would look better w/ full coverage heat shrink when i get around to it

hey Slim,
did you do anything to remove the tinning on the neu motor leads so that you could have flexible copper wire to solder to? i am just wondering what you did to join the two wires? the job looks pretty clean.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

If I wanted to achieve the same visual look on the neus as the MMM motor, I'd butt-joint solder the 10g wires to the wires sticking out the motors, then use some heatshrink tubing over the neat join, making sure it went right upto the motor can and inside a little even, to prevent movement from wearing through the insultion on the wires as pointed out. It wouldnt look exactly the same, but close enough to look good.

this is exactly what i have decided to do after i already tried to remove the endbell on my tekno neu but its like glued with some serious shi* cuz i cant even budge the endbell after removing the screws. so basically it will be just like Slim's (looks good btw, Slim) but i am going to push the heatshrink just inside the can enough so that i can still heat it but hopefully have it look real clean. thanks guys. that really is my whole purpose in this-clean appearance. i just like the cleaner look of the castle motor leads without the extra bullets right there. i wish Steve Neu would just run the motor leads an extra 3-4" and not add all the tin to the leads. oh well, there must be a reason to his madness and i certainly cant complain about the best motors in the biz. i just really like a clean setup and when i saw those castle motors i thought that added to the overall "neatness" of a setup. but after buying a castle neu (sold it) i like the square Tekno neus much better.

i found some amazing solder i plan to use. it is made by Mundorf. it is 10% silver, 1% gold, 2% copper, and 87% tin (rounding off decimals). can you believe that?!!! it is the best solder in the world. period. i have seen the 45% -70% silver solder for jewelry and stuff but this is actual RC/Audio solder. Novaks Racing solder is only 3% silver. and on ebay there is some stuff that claims to be the highest silver content for any solder at 5.2%. that is what i have used in the past. the gold is added to this solder to give it a somewhat low melting point still cuz with all that silver it has to get pretty hot. melting point is at 522*. not bad. i think 4-5% silver bearing solder melts at like 430*. and the jewelry stuff melts at around 1100-1500*. aint no way your melting that with your soldering iron. at least i dont think so. anyway, it will be interesting to see if this solder makes a difference at all. if anything, the joints will be super strong.