MetalMan can make you a centerdiff drive unit that will work on the FLM and GorillaMaxx 3906 chassis- may require a little trimming/clearance work on the inside of the chassis rails to allow room for spurs bigger than 44tooth I believe. No slipper with that unit, but the centerdiff acts as one in a manner of speaking..
I like sysmetrical too, but one must learn to embrace the Asymetrical sometimes
Samples, no- just PM him for details really, far quicker and easier than rooting around this place for burried threads and such. What you're after is one of these basically:
Mike is also starting on his in the next couple of weeks - YAY!
Yes Sir I exchanged emails with monsterMike on this ver subject just before Xmas, and his response with this was that he is going to have some of these made up and hapefully have them in the store sometime shortly after the New Year 2009. So there are several of usstanding by for his release on the Maxx truck center diff mount. I would expect that we will hear something or see themon the RCM store page within the next month or so. There are two of them out there that I have seen. One is SSSConcepts,and the other is Harold's(Paralysed). They look really good, and should solve a lot of issues for some of us in getting rid of the tranny all together. Mike is also planning ot release the Slipperential pretty soon. He has shared with us that he is finalizing all of the patent pending issues and trying to take legal steps to protect his design. So 2009 is a good time to start into this RiverMaxx.
Yes, that exactly what I want I guess I will wait till mike gets them made. Now that I have a g2 chassis I think the build will go alot easier. I just cant decide which bulkhead setup I want to use. I was thinking about using a mono block with the g2 chassi and vbs with 8 spidersand racerx with setbacks or ga's with sweestrobes and rpm truetraks I cant decide and I will have too pull some peices off my nitro trucks.
Yes, that exactly what I want I guess I will wait till mike gets them made. Now that I have a g2 chassis I think the build will go alot easier. I just cant decide which bulkhead setup I want to use. I was thinking about using a mono block with the g2 chassi and vbs with 8 spidersand racerx with setbacks or ga's with sweestrobes and rpm truetraks I cant decide and I will have too pull some peices off my nitro trucks.
In my opinion that sounds like a pretty good setup. Your choices are right on the money and if all goes well you will have a nice truck for your first BL conversion RIver. You seem to be rolling right into becomming a real Brushless dude here at RCM. Good luck and keep us updated with your progress. Good luck RM.
Whats the diffrence beteween the two. I thought it was only the lower chassis plate was different. I also thought the g3 cassis had the different upper plate that required you to use the front flattened out skid in the rear which wouldnt work with a mono. Question is, should I use a mono block or buy a g3 upper plate and use a front skid which would be cheaper stronger and better over all to lengthen the wheel base a little. Lets see mono is $65 upper plate is ~ $25 and a rear aluminum skid is $19 and a used titanium one is $25 so ~ $50 compared to about $90 for mono with ti skid. Mono would be stronger for sure and I could use any normal ti skid. Descisions decisions.LOL
All things concidered, the G2 chassis (when fitted with the extended rear upper plate and extended rear lower skid) is the same length as the regular G2 chassis fitted with a monoblock- theres only like 1/8" difference. My advice would be to just pickup the G3 rear upper plate and rear skid, no need to mess around modding parts or hunting for extended skids. I've never had any durability issues, and I've flipped my truck more times than I care to remember..
Does rc monster sell it in kit form? Or do I have to get that from the gorilla website. I was thinking about using my 3mm thick ga skids and for that I would have too run a monoblock. I wonder if a hardcore rear titanum skid would work I really dont like aluminum skids.
You can buy the parts you need from gorillamaxx themselves as spares, just look in their spares section under the G3 chassis- you will need the skid and rear upper plate. RCM doesnt sell the spare parts, just the whole chassis. I honestly wouldnt worry about needing a Ti skid on the rear, though a trimmed down item would fit over the top of the gorillamaxx ones nicely (just use the 4 holes that attach it to the underside of the bulks, and trim off the rest if you use a normal length skid). The aluminium skids of the gmaxx chassis are very short, not like a normal skid that is inclined to bend if you hit something- take a look at the photos of my truck to get a better idea of what you're dealing with:
I have been studying your truck among others very closely these past few days. BTW nice build. What I need to know is what length is the rear drive shaft pin to pin. Lito say 110mm but I have seen others say different. If it is 110mm I could get titanium ones from ue.
River, my gmaxx with mono uses a 110mm rear dogbone. I used to have a 108mm dogbone but have to use 2 o-ring on each cup to remove the fore and aft play. I measured the distance and bought the 110m titanium dogbone from UE and it fits like a glove. No o-rings were needed on the cups.
Anyway, can you post a pic of your chassis?
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Hey lito what length is the front shaft? . That is awesome I can use a titanium shaft with the mono. I wonder if there is a difference of shaft length with the g-maxx chassi extension Neil said 1/8" in length between the 2. I bought it from billy trucks he gave me a pretty good deal . A similer one sold for over $200 a couple of hours before. I dont know how to tell if it is a g2 or g3 I guess the g3's are longer and the g1 lower plate is flat. Heres a link the the auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=160310588005
I saw a gentlemen about 3 weeks ago that was running a MMM with twin Velineon motors hooked to it on a 3905 Emaxx. He had fried both of his VXL-3 controllers and had the motors laying around with a MMM to use. The truck ran awesome on 3S. So I would have to say.....yes it can be done. Is it the most efficient way....probably not.