need help with converting a hyper 7

[whitrzac]

Originally Posted by Arct1k

For $40 I would have taken the one from RCM...

Sort out that rear brace...

???? the novak trays are on the way


46/11 won't fit with the motor mount :(



the rear brace and the chassis needs to be replaced... skateboard ramp+overgeared .28+open road+ME!!+"hey watch this*"= "thats AWSOME, holy mother of... oh *****************

still finding chunks of the cooling head and other random parts a year later



will the RCM LST 2 speed pinion work, or does anyone make 2 speed pinions?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...50025&viewitem

BTW I did not buy that for the 2 speed, more for the CNC knuckals and the masive amounts of suspention parts...


* Famous last words of $$$$$ worth of stuff, the same goes for, "what happens if..."

[whitrzac]

I got the bat boxes in and I'm going to mount them sometime this weekend, but I have a new problem, were do I mount the RX and esc with 2 batts???

IDK but I'm thinking of keeping the RX were it its and put it in one of THESE or THESE and then mounting the esc on top of it. would I get any interference issues with a 75mhz FM system??


so whats everyone else doing?

this is the basic layout, but with another batt on the other side too

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...c/IMGP4663.jpg


my neu should be here sometime soon

[lincpimp]

Unless you run 2.4ghz keep the rec away from the esc and motor, as they will mess with reception.

I generally place the esc near the motor and put the rec on top of the steering servo. Do you have the lay down or stand up servo on that hyper? I cannot remember what my 7 had... I think it was a stand up type. So lay it on its side and you will have some space to mount the rec on top of it. Can you move the fuel tank side tray forward and mount the esc behind it on the chassis? Layout will look a bit funny, but it will be closest to the motor. Or you could mount it in front of the tray across from the servo, but your motor wires will be long, which is never a good thing.

[lincpimp]

Ok, I looked at the pic... I would move the fuel tank side battery box forward, and mount the esc behind it. Get some servo mounts and lay the servo down and put the rec on top of it. That will keep the rec away from the motor and esc. Best layout I can come up with...

[whitrzac]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Ok, I looked at the pic... I would move the fuel tank side battery box forward, and mount the esc behind it. Get some servo mounts and lay the servo down and put the rec on top of it. That will keep the rec away from the motor and esc. Best layout I can come up with...

the big thing I'm worryed about with mounting it back that far is that area is allwase filled with dirt and crap...

what if I mounted the esc on the novak battery strap??

wouldn't having the RX over the servo and the esc were the RX is be far enough apart?? the power wires would be going over the motor to keep them from geting chewed up, and the motor wire arn't that long...


just thinking outloud here, but I can flip the motor mount around and have the motor facing the other way, the spur clears the chassis, and the motor is moved slightly to the servo side, my main worry would be the motor clearing the body, but I could alwase cut a hole and get more air over the motor, then move the esc to were the motor is now via plate between the batt boxes

I guess I will play around with it when I get the motor in

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by whitrzac

the big thing I'm worryed about with mounting it back that far is that area is allwase filled with dirt and crap...

what if I mounted the esc on the novak battery strap??

wouldn't having the RX over the servo and the esc were the RX is be far enough apart?? the power wires would be going over the motor to keep them from geting chewed up, and the motor wire arn't that long...


just thinking outloud here, but I can flip the motor mount around and have the motor facing the other way, the spur clears the chassis, and the motor is moved slightly to the servo side, my main worry would be the motor clearing the body, but I could alwase cut a hole and get more air over the motor, then move the esc to were the motor is now via plate between the batt boxes

I guess I will play around with it when I get the motor in

I would put the esc in the back. You can make a small mudguard out of some scrap plastic to keep the dirt out. If you put the motor in the front it will stick out of the body and the first time you flip it over you may damage the motor and mount.

[whitrzac]

WOT!!! my motor came in today!!!

I lil on the fast side, but I'm only driving in an open field right now.


did I enter the amp draw right?? 1000 cont. watts / 14.8


cont.

Differential Ratio:	3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio:	1
Other Ratio:	1
Spur Tooth Count:	46
Pinion Tooth Count:	12
Total Voltage:	14.8
Motor KV:	3300
Tire Diameter (inches):	4.6
Tire Ballooning (inches):	0
Motor Current Draw:	67.56
Motor coil Ω:	.004
Spur/Pinion Ratio:	3.83 : 1
Total Ratio:	12.67949 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches):	14.45 inches (367.06 mm)
Total Motor Speed:	47948.21 RPM
Vehicle Speed:	51.75 mph (83.13 km/h)
Effective KV Value:	3239.74
KT constant:	0.41 oz-in/A
Motor Torque:	0.14 ft-lbs
Final Torque:	1.83 ft-lbs
Final Power:	999.89 watts (1.3 HP)

max

Differential Ratio:	3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio:	1
Other Ratio:	1
Spur Tooth Count:	46
Pinion Tooth Count:	12
Total Voltage:	14.8
Motor KV:	3300
Tire Diameter (inches):	4.6
Tire Ballooning (inches):	0
Motor Current Draw:	135
Motor coil Ω:	.004
Spur/Pinion Ratio:	3.83 : 1
Total Ratio:	12.67949 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches):	14.45 inches (367.06 mm)
Total Motor Speed:	47058 RPM
Vehicle Speed:	50.79 mph (81.59 km/h)
Effective KV Value:	3179.59
KT constant:	0.41 oz-in/A
Motor Torque:	0.29 ft-lbs
Final Torque:	3.65 ft-lbs
Final Power:	1998 watts (2.7 HP)

[whitrzac]

anyone??/

[Metallover]

Help with what? Cogging? Try changing your settings.

[whitrzac]

Originally Posted by Metallover

Help with what? Cogging? Try changing your settings.

yes, but IDK what to change, the timeing is a 0, the current limiter is off, and it only cogs trying to back up

[Metallover]

You timing can't be 0. Change it back to normal. That should fix it... Why the heck did you set the timing at 0?

[whitrzac]

the motor is a neu 1512 1.5d so its non adjustable timeing on that, nothing changes when I set the timeing to 5-15%

anyone know were to get the RC8 plastic spurs???


I think i found the prob, the CC bec is only set at 5.1v from the factory....

[Metallover]

If it only cogs in reverse, what is the issue? It doesn't really matter in reverse. If you aren't overgeared I can't think of any more problems. Change all your settings backs to stock. I don't want to be mean, but if you set the timing to zero you probably set something else wrong...

I would see if your lhs carries or can order in rc8 spurs... It would be way faster and probably cheaper then ordering online. If they can't get any in, I guess you could get one on tower...

[whitrzac]

Originally Posted by Metallover

If it only cogs in reverse, what is the issue? It doesn't really matter in reverse. If you aren't overgeared I can't think of any more problems. Change all your settings backs to stock. I don't want to be mean, but if you set the timing to zero you probably set something else wrong...

I would see if your lhs carries or can order in rc8 spurs... It would be way faster and probably cheaper then ordering online. If they can't get any in, I guess you could get one on tower...

it doesn't GO in reverse, it just stutters(coging) and goes nowere

[Metallover]

Would you mind posting a picture of your settings? If it isn't your settings, the only thing that comes to mind would be binding. Push the thing in reverse and see if it rolls as smoothly as forward. You could have a drivetrain problem.