EP Savage X build

[BL_RV0]

Great truck! I have a couple questions for you. How much have you spend to date? Would you mind making me a list of the parts you bought? Thanks very much!

[Joey]

Suspension arms: --------------------Bought for $13 shipped.

Bulkheads + Diffs + Shock Towers: -- -Bought front and rear for $47.20 shipped.

Bumper + Skid assembly: -------------Bought front and rear for $8 shipped.

X TVPs: -----------------------------Bought for $15 shipped.

Axle dogbones + cups: ---------------Bought for $25 shipped.

Center diff/tranny and mount: --- ----Bought for $27 shipped.

Bellcrank/Servo Saver assembly: -----Bought for $6.50 shipped.

Axle carriers + bearings: -------------Bought for $13 shipped.

Suspension arm hinge pins: ----------Bought front and rear for $4 shipped.

Screw set + misc: -------------------Bought for $12 shipped.

F/R Turnbuckles: --------------------Bought for $6.70 shipped.

Radio box: --------------------------Bought for $8 shipped.

Center dogbones: -------------------Bought for $15 shipped.

Chassis braces: ---------------------Bought for $10 shipped.

Extra screws/hardware: -------------Bought for $8.

17mm hex hub set: -----------------Bought for $10 shipped.

warhead towers + shock mount kit -- Bought for $15 shipped

Total cost so far... ----------------- $235




I already had the shocks, wheels, and servo. Hope this helps!

[Joey]

Im wondering if all the little 4mm holes I drilled in my chassis at some of the more narrow points has weakened it. How easily do these chassi bend?

I decided to redo the center area as I just wasnt thrilled with some small mistakes I made. I ordered some 6061 aluminum and am going to re build my CD and motor mounts. Basically there will be two "C" shaped plates, one for the CD and one for the motor. The CD plate will allow me to mount the CD like it should be, screwed in from the bottom. The legs of the C will screw to the chassis. The motor C plate will have the legs attach to the inside of the TVPs and the body of the C will be facing the front so as to be close to the spur. Maybe hard to follow... have a look.

I dont know why I didnt think of this in the first place, its so much simpler than what I did before and uses many less parts.

[Joey]

Just found out that 6061 aluminum doesnt like to bend at all. So I wont be bending the alu to shape, just cutting the parts that were going to make the "legs" off and use some L shaped aluminum brackets. Getting more complicated again, but shouldnt be too bad.

[Joey]

Alright Im about 75% done with the new mounting scheme. I had to use only tools I have here at my moms house since Im home from school now. So all I have to work with is an electric drill, a hacksaw, and some small clamps. No workbench, no metal files... UGH its hard and sloppy but I got the job done.

Its obviously not totally finished and its a rough draft mock-up right now but you'll get the idea. I think its going to work well, I just hope I used thick enough aluminum for the motor mount.

[Joey]

[Joey]

Heres a video so you can hear the noise my diffs are making. It stops for about 1 second if I push the input cup in towards the bulkhead. I can feel it move about a millimeter and when it rolls there is no noise until it moves back out after about a second. Anywhere here it is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YflTirLdhXQ

Dangit, how do you embed video on here???

[Joey]

More stuff came today, getting closer... running out of money fast..!! Good thing I found a part time summer job (still looking for full time...).



I also changed my mind (again) on the "battery tray as a skidplate" thing, it just wasnt a good idea, plus the trays are pretty flimsy. Im just going to order some thin aluminum and make a real skidplate.