Losi Ten-T Conversion

[nitrostarter]

Yep, my 8T 2.0 front output gets pretty warm due to the drive angle!

[Moller123456 !]

nirtostarter (love your profile pic:D) where can i get that sticker?:D

Warning: Dont lock the center diff, just broke something on the rear center driver shaft...

[jholthus]

Well I have bashed mine pretty hard twice now, and am really pleased with it. It has broken small parts (shock ends) and I lost a screw, but that's maintenance issues that come with a used rc. Overall this thing is a blast and is quickly becoming my favorite.

[bryan]

Thats good to hear, i've beat the crap out of mine for a while now and have only broken a rear upright,and bent one hinge pin "same side".

Has anyone found any other bodies that fit the ten t?
I bought mine as a roller w/o a body.
I would prefer something tough like the jconcepts stuff. Considered a buggy body but not sure it offers enough protection. If limited to the stock body how are they holding up?

Also what is the best way to convert to 17mm. Looked at the traxxas ones but did not want to grind the spacer part off. Gets to close to the hub IMO. I've seen the FLM ones but don't like the way they stick out.
Thanks for any help.

[bryan]

Actually the losi bodies are pretty strong. As far as the wheel hexs the traxxas ones seem to be the easiest way to convert to 17mm.

Thanks Bryan

M2C Racing makes a 17mm Adapter Kit for the Ten-T. I cant vouch for them as I just used the Traxxas ones.

If you like the Buggy bodies some guys on the Losi forum have been modding the 8ight-E body to fit the Ten-t.

Originally Posted by kyrenegade

Has anyone found any other bodies that fit the ten t?
I bought mine as a roller w/o a body.
I would prefer something tough like the jconcepts stuff. Considered a buggy body but not sure it offers enough protection. If limited to the stock body how are they holding up?

Also what is the best way to convert to 17mm. Looked at the traxxas ones but did not want to grind the spacer part off. Gets to close to the hub IMO. I've seen the FLM ones but don't like the way they stick out.
Thanks for any help.

[jholthus]

Originally Posted by bparanoid

M2C Racing makes a 17mm Adapter Kit for the Ten-T.

Yeah I have them now. Work great, bolt right on. However, like most I am guessing, I was concerned about how they narrow the vehicle so much with buggy wheels on. So he came back and said that he is deigning new ones to keep the stock width but wont be done for a few weeks.

[Chadworkz]

I have a Kyosho MP777 SP1 with Ultra Racing 7075-T6 (by Fioroni) front & rear shock towers, front C-Hubs, front & rear hinge-pin/toe mounts...brand-new chassis and brand-new Avid RC bearings everywhere (even the steering). It comes with a yellow Pro-Line wing, orange & black stock body, and is complete (including hardware) minus the engine, electronics, and wheels & tires. I was going to convert it to brushless, but if you're interested, I would love to have a Ten-T! The buggy is completely apart right now for a full cleaning and bearing replacement, but it would be cleaned and assembled if you were interested.

Edit: Oh, you wanted a truggy, I didn't see that at first...sorry.

[bryan]

Finally broke a front cvd axle last night at my buddys track.Bought a complete set of 4 for $33 on fleabay today incuding shipping. The down fall is the guy is in canadaGuess im gonna be forced to get my 8ight t 2.0 out this weekend

So after reading this whole forum, my question is what diff fluids are people liking the most for racing? I am going to run the Tekin 1900 combo with a Losi plastic 45 spur and probably start with a 15 tooth Mod 1 pinion. There are a few modifications to Mike's conversion and the spur gear to make this work. Let me know what you guys are thinking for diff oils. I was going to try 7-10-2 but I am not sure.

[bryan]

Originally Posted by Ellwood BL

So after reading this whole forum, my question is what diff fluids are people liking the most for racing? I am going to run the Tekin 1900 combo with a Losi plastic 45 spur and probably start with a 15 tooth Mod 1 pinion. There are a few modifications to Mike's conversion and the spur gear to make this work. Let me know what you guys are thinking for diff oils. I was going to try 7-10-2 but I am not sure.

If yo are saying 7 front 10 center 2 rear thats apretty decent starting point depending on your set-up and track.My question to you is why would you want to modify MIKES kit to run "losi plastic 45 spur".Do you have an abundance of Mod 1 pinions.The mod.8 spur that is included "MUCH MORE DURABLE THAN THE LOSI PLASTIC" along with your choice of pinion also included with the kit.
Just my .02 cents
Oh yeah, got my c/v shafts from canada today so i was able to get in a couple packs

[Chadworkz]

Originally Posted by bryan

Finally broke a front cvd axle last night at my buddys track.Bought a complete set of 4 for $33 on fleabay today incuding shipping. The down fall is the guy is in canada. Guess im gonna be forced to get my 8ight t 2.0 out this weekend

If you ever need another set of awesome CVDs, or just don't have a lot of money to spend on awesome CVDs, RC-Best (on eBay) has some of the absolute best CVDs available, and they are just $30-$40 shipped, including all 4 axle CVDs and both center CVDs! I have run them in everything from a 3.89HP .28ci Big-Block Supermaxx to an MMM/2200kV Revo to a Brushed 55T Super-Class Rock-Crawler with Moab XL Tires on Aluminum Wheels (both weighted), and they have taken everything I have thrown at them, including standing back-flips, as well as powering out of situations where the tires of my crawler were wedged between two rocks...they are that good!

Originally Posted by bryan

My question to you is why would you want to modify MIKES kit to run "losi plastic 45 spur".Do you have an abundance of Mod 1 pinions.The mod.8 spur that is included "MUCH MORE DURABLE THAN THE LOSI PLASTIC" along with your choice of pinion also included with the kit. Just my .02 cents

I have to agree here, the spur-gear included in the Ten-T BL Conversion Kit is awesome...not only is it made out of Delrin, which is extremely strong & durable, as well as having an extremely low friction coefficient (doesn't wear out & is super-quiet), it is machined by Mike to his absolute perfect precision standards. There just isn't any reason not to use it.

[BrianG]

FYI: The stock setup is not Mod 1, it's kinda in between Mod 1 and Mod 0.8 (or 32p). Mod 1 may work, but there will probably be premature wear.