My e-revo brushless edition build

[Chadworkz]

Originally Posted by squeeforever

I contacted them quite a while back and they said to expect them soon, but that was a LONG time ago. Haven't bothered since...
So would you say to wait for the new kit or to get a set ASAP? My only concern is I'd like to have a true-trac...I really hate this dilemma to be honest. Is it to much to ask for Tekno knuckles all around with carbon fiber arms and a true-trac setup? Seriously, why can't the companies combine the best of the best? True-trac concept from RPM, awesome 8mm knuckles from Tekno, and carbon fiber arms from Vantage? That would be TITS.

If you have the money to spend, I would go ahead and grab a set now while they still have some, because who knows if they will ever go into production. I really wish I hadn't sold my set, but I couldn't turn down such a huge profit, so I will probably buy another set myself.

[mistercrash]

So the truck is all put back together with new stock chassis, new bulkheads and new front arms. It is cold again today and we wanted to play with the trucks so out we went. I started with a pair of Turnigy 2S and did the same things I usually do, mostly jumping as I wanted to know if the bulkheads would hold up. Ran until the LVC kicked in. No broken parts other than a lost body clip. Then I put a couple 3S Zippy-H in and ran the truck again. Going faster and jumping higher. near the end of the lipo's cycle, I jumped a snow bank at almost full speed, the truck went high, I was looking up at it, it clipped the Realtor's ''SOLD'' sign that's in front of our house and went into a weird flat spin and landed hard on the asphalt on the left rear wheel.
This broke the left rear rocker and cracked the left bulkhead. one bulkhead is cracked, not shattered like all the bulkheads were with the Kershaw chassis.
So with the stock chassis, the bulkheads are much harder to break, it took a real bad and hard crash to only crack one.

I am going to change all the bulkheads and go to un modified ones because I want to try going back to the stock E-Revo diffs. Later.

Originally Posted by mistercrash

I am going to change all the bulkheads and go to un modified ones because I want to try going back to the stock E-Revo diffs. Later.

Oh no you done with the LST diffs permanently or just till it warms up?

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by Deahttub

Oh no you done with the LST diffs permanently or just till it warms up?

I want to see how long the stock diffs are going to last. I know the LST diffs last a long long time and don't seem to break a sweat even on 6S. After close to a full year of racing and bashing, my LST diffs only needed new lube recently, the gears and bearings were all in top shape. I want to find out for myself if the stock diffs can last and take abuse like the LST diffs did. I know a lot of people run the stock diffs without problems but I have to test them for myself with my kind of driving.

[shaunjohnson]

Originally Posted by mistercrash

I want to see how long the stock diffs are going to last. I know the LST diffs last a long long time and don't seem to break a sweat even on 6S. After close to a full year of racing and bashing, my LST diffs only needed new lube recently, the gears and bearings were all in top shape. I want to find out for myself if the stock diffs can last and take abuse like the LST diffs did. I know a lot of people run the stock diffs without problems but I have to test them for myself with my kind of driving.

ive run stock diffs and only ever killed one rear diff but that was a completely different issue that caused that.
driveshaft boot got torn, sliding shaft siezed, pressure put of diff beaering, powdered bearing, ring gear moved and got stripped.

other than that, no troubles, you will need thicker oil in them than you run in the LST diffs though.
i run 500k in the front but that is a tad too thick, i run 5k in the rear and that feels ok.

[mistercrash]

My son's GERBE runs stock diffs in which I put 50k in front and 10k in rear. I find them a little too loose so in my ERBE I will try 100k front and 30k rear. I will still run my 8th scale diff in the center.

[Bondonutz]

Originally Posted by mistercrash

My son's GERBE runs stock diffs in which I put 50k in front and 10k in rear. I find them a little too loose so in my ERBE I will try 100k front and 30k rear. I will still run my 8th scale diff in the center.

If you starting putting higher than 50K in the front diff steering will start to suffer.
I do a lot of climbing and hard bashing and have found that 30-50K Front and 50K rear works very well.

Originally Posted by mistercrash

I want to see how long the stock diffs are going to last. I know the LST diffs last a long long time and don't seem to break a sweat even on 6S. After close to a full year of racing and bashing, my LST diffs only needed new lube recently, the gears and bearings were all in top shape. I want to find out for myself if the stock diffs can last and take abuse like the LST diffs did. I know a lot of people run the stock diffs without problems but I have to test them for myself with my kind of driving.

MC....How are the stock diffs still treating you?

[mistercrash]

I haven't had the chance to fix my ERBE since I hit a rock at full speed on 6S three weeks ago
We moved to a bigger house on March 16th and I have been too busy with unpacking. I also have been shopping for stuff to finish the garage the way I want. I just started working on the ERBE yesterday and I am rebuilding it with the stock diffs. My son's GERBE is still running strong with the stock diffs but he only runs on 4S lifepo4.
I seriously think that whatever diffs or gears or shafts are used, everything will perform great with a good slipper that is adjusted the right way. It has to slip quite a bit to protect that drive train if someone wants to abuse their ERBE and have some real fun. If you're doing standing back flips, that slipper is too tight. In order for the ERBE slipper to slip enough, it needs those aluminum pads, the stock ones are not up to snuff to enough slipping action that will protect the drive train. I'm just saying all this from my own experience from my style of driving which is hard. Not crazy hard with the intent to break the truck, just hard bashing (no more racing) with repeated high jumps, fast speeds in grass, asphalt, gravel, dirt...

It's all in the slipper, with a good slipper adjusted right, even Integy parts could be used in the drive train

[Chadworkz]

Originally Posted by mistercrash

I seriously think that whatever diffs or gears or shafts are used, everything will perform great with a good slipper that is adjusted the right way.

I agree 100%!

Originally Posted by mistercrash

It's all in the slipper, with a good slipper adjusted right, even Integy parts could be used in the drive train

This is even true, heh!