My e-revo brushless edition build

[Chadworkz]

Originally Posted by Blown Up

sorry about the multiple listing. I dont kno how it even happened.
thanks for the info

Whenever you hit the Submit button, and it doesn't look like it is working, you tend to hit the Submit button a few more times, and for every time you hit the Submit button, a reply is posted.

[mistercrash]

OOPS!



And what is the solution for a hot motor and ESC with cool batteries? I am geared with 65 spur, 17 pinion with stock diffs. Am I under geared? Should I go to a 19 or 20 tooth pinion?. When I brought the truck in, the fan was on. The temps read 148 ESC, 151 motor and 90 batteries.

[mistercrash]

I already have LST XXL diffs in my E-Revo, I have been running them for a long time in Revos and they always have performed flawlessly. Since I recently made a LST conversion to brushless, I have a lot of spare parts for both trucks lying around. So I started slapping things together as an experiment and the result is very interesting.

The reason I did it was the LST diffs. I always thought that the rest of the LST drive train would be so cool to have on the Revo but I always thought it would be too difficult. First thing is to replace the Traxxas slider shafts with LST XXL CVDs.

This is a stock Traxxas Revo axle carrier with a LST 15X21 mm bearing pushed in it. It fits very tight but it does fit.


The outer 8X16 LST bearing won't fit in the carrier so the hole would have to be enlarged. It could be done easily by someone who has some machining equipment.


I didn't want to mess with the stock carriers so I tried with a RD Racing carrier instead which uses 16 mm OD outer bearings. The inner 15X21 bearing fits in the carrier a tad loosely. A thin sleeve would be needed to get rid of the slack. For the experiment, I just put one layer of Gorilla tape on the outer race of the bearing and it fit in the carrier perfectly. So the sleeve would have to be pretty thin.


The axle sticks out a lot from the carrier so a thick spacer would be needed to slip on the axle between the outer bearing and the hex drive. For the experiment, I just used two 8X16 bearings and three thin shims.

I don't know what the axle sticking out this much would do to the bearings, but when I put a zero offset Truggy wheel on there, it is just 3 mm narrower than the stance of my E-Revo with 1/2 inch offset wheels.



I used one of Monster Mike's hardened steel drive cup with a 6 mm bore to fit on the output shafts of the LST diffs. I made the output shafts from Traxxas stub axles so this set up could actually be used with stock Traxxas E-Revo diffs. The pic shows the suspension at full extension. The pin from the shaft is still well into the drive cup so I think it would not pop out like the Traxxas CVDs do when using the extended rear arms (frog legs)


I did the rear and it works very freely with no binding. I haven't done it to the front yet but I suspect that the LST CVDs won't have enough articulation to work with the amount of steering throw I have on my Revo. We'll see.

For the middle shafts, sadly the LST middle shafts are a bit too short.


But this could be dealt with by having a slightly longer shaft coming out of the tranny. If there was a way to make a CVD shaft fit on a middle shaft hub, it would solve the problem since that CVD looks to have the right length.


This is for the rear middle shaft, for the front, I still don't know, something custom would have to be made I suppose.

This is it, just something I did this afternoon 'cause I was bored.

Originally Posted by mistercrash

For the middle shafts, sadly the LST middle shafts are a bit too short.


But this could be dealt with by having a slightly longer shaft coming out of the tranny. If there was a way to make a CVD shaft fit on a middle shaft hub, it would solve the problem since that CVD looks to have the right length.


This is for the rear middle shaft, for the front, I still don't know, something custom would have to be made I suppose.

This is it, just something I did this afternoon 'cause I was bored.

For the center drive shafts I use the KD center dog bone kit ( I know how much you like his Revo chassis), with Moster Mikes 8 mm drive cups on my lst diffs. I had to mod the rear center dog bones a tad, and the front drive shaft fits perfect... they have worked flawlessly for almost 2 months....

[mothman]

MC, the CVD shaft looks so beefy. how thick are they?

[mistercrash]

The LST CVD shafts are 5 mm thick, they are indeed beefy. As for the Kershaw dog bones, if they work well, that would solve the middle shaft issue. So there you have it, a complete 8th scale drive train is doable on the E-Revo. If the V3 Hybrid diffs from Mike would still be available, the whole process would be ''bolt on'' with no modifications needed. Except for the sleeve needed for the bearing in the RD Racing carriers or enlarging the hole for the outer bearing in a stock carrier. I still haven't tried to install the LST CVDs in the front of the E-Revo. It would probably work but might limit the steering throw for people who did the Slayden steering mod.

[mistercrash]

I didn't have major heat issues with the MMM in my ERBE but under very hard bashing, going at it non stop for 25/30 until the LVC kicks in, the motor would reach temps close to 180. So for extra protection, I put this fan on. Got it from ebay, it wasn't meant to fit the CC 1515 but I made it fit by sawing off 1/3 of the heat sink, then spreading the part left to make it fit snug on the motor. Held with two zip ties.

[mistercrash]

After a hard bashing today, I checked the temp of the motor to see if that fan helped. It was 145 down from 178. That is quite an improvement.

[mistercrash]

I loved racing with Panther Pythons on Traxxas dish wheels with Racers Edge two stage foam inserts. The Pythons were worn so I unglued them with acetone to reuse the dish wheels and the inserts. I bought some Panther Plow boys thinking they had the same bead as the Pythons. They have a square bead that didn't fit the Traxxas dish wheels. I was disappointed so this is what I did to make them fit on the wheels. I just cut off the square bead.




I have 9 or 10 runs on these tires. They work pretty darn good. Good traction on a lot of surfaces and they don't seem to wear too fast.

If you do this, don't discard the square beads that were cut off, keep them they are good and thick elastics that you can use to hold the side of tires on the wheels to glue them.

Lastly, I cleaned my tires with water and dish soap before taping and gluing them. I tossed them in the dryer to dry them in a hurry. I found that Gorilla Tape sticks like crazy on hot tires with almost no wrinkles. When you tape your tires, heat them up first. Give it a try.