J1A1H XXL Torque Monster Buildup........

[suicideneil]

That was quite cool- more than enough power to throw itself around with ease. Needs a bigger wheelie bar though I reckon...

[Jahay]

Definitely need a bigger wheelie bar, but i dont know of any that will stand up to the abuse.... any ideas....


CHECK THIS

After my last run on saturday doing jumps, i noticed a perculier sound coming from the diffs, and then before you knew it i had thought i had stripped my BP Diffs...

Upon inspection and checking them yesterday... this was found to be NOT the case... My ring and pinion are absolutely fine... So what happend???

All 4 screws backed out of the diff casing holding the ring gear on.... What was the result??? psh... look at these pics...






Crazy!!! So i was then thinkinig... where the hell is the 4th screw head? I looked everywhere in the diff grease and couldnt feel or see it......

Where did i find it in the end??? Check this pic of the bulk head. And notice the groove cut out by the screws that muse have slided it up upon backing out...






I am happy as no gears were damaged, and it shows that you really should not get any diff oil in teh screw holes or the loc tite wont work...

I knew this but i was in a rush to get it running....

I know the inside of the bulks are destroyed, but i really want to run this weekend so i am going to give it a go... if it works, then great... if not, then what ever... but i think its time for some GH Alloy Bulks (but no deniro at the moment so will have to do with stock...)

[nuz69]

If the bearing housing of the bulkhead is ok, then it's ok. Maybe use longer screws ? Never seen such a thing in a diff ^^ The loctite does'nt work between steel and diff plastic, it's designed to work for steel on steel, so IMO you don't need it, just screw it tough ! Other than that, ready to 9S ?

[Jahay]

the screws them selves came out of the steel diff housing. So loc tite does work, but in my rush to assemble and fill with diff oil... some of the oil got in the screw holes. And the loctite obvioulsy didnt work causing the screws to back out...

Nuz... stop trying to prevent me from going 9s lol IM GOING TO DO IT!!! haha you are just worried my savage will then be faster than your mbx5t :)

[nuz69]

Ow my bad, your diff housing is made of steel, ok. Yes in this case for loctite... Why you took steel diff housing ? Plastic were too fragile ? Yeaah I can't wait the result with 9S Lipo ^^ 90mph savage ???
Just keep me posted on your tires, I am actually searching good BIG tires for difficult bashing area, but BIG tires means BIG ballooning

[Jahay]

well a steel diff housing is much much better than plastic to prevent any sort of distortion which could ruin mesh and cause damage to the gears...

My Moabs are very big and very heavy i would probably never recommend them on anything smaller than my truck (the only reason i have them is they offer great air control) but they dont balloon thanks to the gorilla tape i have used to tape them...

I wish 9s gave me 90mph haha but it will be a much more conservative 75-80mph with no heating issues and conservative gearing. Psh anything over 60-65mph is my realisitic target... I just want to do some huge rolling backflips at 50mph haha

[Jahay]

Thanks to _dv i have been able to start my Centre diff conversion

... Ive been rushing the work so it hasnt been so accurate but it will work well once i am finished... would have been so much easier to get it cnc'd if i had done a cad drawing, but hey, it really isnt that hard and just takes a bit of time to get everything to line up

Ok So i am using a 4mm alloy plate as the base plate...
Here are some pics of my progress so far...







I will get fitment finalised properly tomorrow...
then
find the best mounting between the tvps which allows me to utilise my originial front drive shaft so i will only need to get one custom rear drive shaft made up.

[_dV]

What's the weight of that center diff? Outside bearing measurement?

You'll be happy to know that my diff mount has had no issues in the few test runs i've done.

One small bit of advice, make the cutout for the spur wide enough so that you can easily remove the diff from mount closest to the spur when the opposite mount is removed.

[Jahay]

I made some progress today... I have mounted the diff to the TVPs and worked out i need a 16.5cm Rear drive shaft made up...
I also cut a alloy plate which will act as my motor plate and will be bolted to the side of the TVPs...







This is how the motor plate may look with the motor attached to the plate...





_dv thanks for the advice, i will do that... i will get the dimensions of the diff for you tomorrow.

[Jahay]

further update... getting there now

Tiny update.. things are moving slow but at least they are moving...

I have now managed to mount the motor to the plate. Wasnt the cleanest job, but it does the job. Some pics for all yall :)

In this image... you can see where i had to cut some slots in the tvps for the motor mounts to slide down enough to provide the right mesh.


You can see what i mean in this pic below


All connected with a nice mesh


You can see how thick the alloy plate is... must offer a little structural rigidity to the tvps considering i have chopped them up a little bit


This is what it looks from the outside...
I know i know, it ugly... But what i will do now as its all fitted... i will sand the edges smooth and angle them towards the chassis, and i will paint any alloy bits black for now, so it all blends with the tvps. Anyway this will be covered by the lipo boxes soon... 9s here i come :)


What it looks like on the inside all assembled


And my new Rear drive shaft sent from Chris at GCM... Thanks buddy!!! arrived quickly and fits perfectly! Legend!


I had to cut a little away from my batter tray as the thick centre part was hitting it slightly... not a big issue though and was expected.



What was causing me big problems was finding a strong enough, and the correct length which was long enough to give me full steering, but short enough as to clear the motor mount.. so i decided to make my own. Yes its ugly again, but as long as it does the job... i dont care...




Still waiting on my alloy bulks and other little things... but its coming together!!! Enjoy :)

all the alloy is looking badly scratched up... maybe get everything re anodized after i bash the hell out of it :)

[nuz69]

Hello,
This setup is lighter than your previous gear box no ?
Don't forget to cover the front motor holes with tape to avoid the dust to go in.
Still all good with your 1520 ? I race with mine now, it rarely breaks 40°C (geared for 40 mph), so
NuZ

[Jahay]

yep yep yep lighter!!! trying to save weight anywhere on the savage is a bonus!

i dont have any holes in the front of my motor...
Mine is geared for 53mph and doesnt break past 50-53degreesC which i am more than happy with... But i cannot wait for the new mamba xl :) 9s will be swiftly on the way. Im going to install the lipo boxes now so it is all ready for the upgrade!

You have great temps for racing! continuously on power is hard on the motor! But the 1520 is a grt motor!

[nuz69]

Yes you have, front screws holes ;) The dirt comes in here.

[Jahay]

haha thanks for the heads up...

What is recommended for covering the holes?

[nuz69]

I use basic electrical tape. Remove the grease/dirt with alcohol, then put some tape. It hold very well.