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Finnster
KillaHurtz
 
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bucks Co, PA
11.02.2010, 09:22 AM

They are def a very stiff plastic, and seem quite tough and thick. There is quite a bit more material around the pin, and that's where I always broke the savage arms.

So there may be a chance they will prove more fragile, but looking at them now I think the Mugen arms will prove stronger. I am trying to make it so I can undo it and put back on sav arms if needed. I know you can get very soft RPM arms that will never break, but I don't always like them as they bend so much handling gets a bit sloppy and other parts tend to bend with all the distorsion, particularly driveshafts.

I looked at doing it with the plastic bulkheads as a test, but the new two peice design would make it extremely weak around the diff bearings, and I don't really want to do that. There might be some ways around it by making new braces to push the pins out a bit or something, but I'm not feeling bothered to try.

I'll post a pic of where I marked off the bulkhead for modification. Its not too bad actually. The trick is where I want to keep the extra M4 hole on bottom that mounts the skidplate to the bulkhead. I don't think its critical, but I'm going to try and keep it since I will remove so much material on bottom. Can't put material back. ;)
If I decided to ditch it, the bulk could just be modded with a hand file.Basically what you are doing is removing the block where the hinge pin passes thru. The arm will be entirely supported by the pin braces. This is a typical truggy setup. Doesn't do much good to have the pin passing thru material in the bulkhead at the center fo the pin. Just a place to get the pin stuck if an arm did break and bent a pin.
From the pic, you are basically wiping out the area on bottom where "fastlane" is written.

Otherwise If been doing a bit of finishing work to the bulkheads to remove some excess material where I can to slim it down a notch. Nothing radical, and just done by hand files.
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