ALZA racing Flux Baja 5b

[Knez]

Here another video...
Steering much better now, i grinded a little so now it turns more.
I tested White springs in front with no preloaders and yellow springs "soft" at the rear with 3 preloaders on each shock.
Green locktite on motor pinion !!!
It holds for now, 3 runs all good.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1YHEjRw4cQ

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1YHEjRw4cQ[/YOUTUBE]

[Cain]

sorry if I missed this, but are you using the HPI wide axles with 24mm hexes? if so, how have they been holding up for you? If not, what are you using?

Also, how has the 1520 motor been holding up for you? Is that what you are using in all your vids?

Looking for any info on doing this kind of conversion, got an HP on the way that has a 1520 in it.

[Knez]

Yes, wide axles with 24mm hexes is what i am using. Well they do hold but i hit with rear left tire in to a concrete block, now rear left wobbles/dances a little.
I can still drive but need to change wide axle.

Motor holds good. But it is a little to slow for my taste. got it set for 70-75kmh.
Now here is 34°C and motor on the sun gets hot a little, so i drive when sun is a bit down.

1520 is a nice motor..i do wish it had 1800kv.
But you wont be sorry i think :)

Post a picture or 2 when you receive it.

[Cain]

Thanks for the info. I have seen a variety of mixed review on the 24mm hex and wide axle combo. But I like the look of it being a 1/5 scale with the proper tires. (though, big joe's do look kind of badass lol). Hoping that Rummy's solution did work out and can get some made maybe.

This is the vehicle I am starting with:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ecked-out.html


the 70 kph is about 43mph, so that would be more than plenty for me.

Now that I look at the post again, the motor is actually a 1518 instead of a 1520. Do you think that could be usable at all or not? I may just order the 1717 mount though regardless.


In your opinion, what are the things you should definitely order from Alza Racing for the conversion? Right now I have the following I am looking to order for sure:

- Alza Racing 5B 5mm Conversion
- Savage Bulkhead brace conversion
- Savage Flux 1717 motor mount
- Savage Flux Motor Plate XL
- Savage Flux 5B Lipo Plate

Parts I am considering and would like your opinion on:

- Roof for Savage FLUX 5B Conversion

Do you believe there is any benefit to this or is it just bling?

- Savage FLUX 5B / 5T Skidplate

have you seen what this looks like and any benefit?

- Savage servo plate - dual standard

I am curious about if it could be possible to do a dual servo setup using this thing for steering and some other mods to the steering rack. Or, if it doesn't work out, just use the 1 side for the servo and save some weight on the other side where the servo is cut out?

- Savage Slipper locker

I am thinking of getting this versus the Robinson Racing Gen 3 Slipper setup. Which do you believe if better for offroad use with the conversion?


By the way, any opinions on the 4mm version of the chassis conversion?


Thank you again for any help you can provide.

[Knez]

Nice rig, but i must say those fat joes are just tooo wide and heavy.
I would suggest you change the tires a.s.a.p.
My tires where only 40€ and are 175mm tall. (wish they were wider and same weight )
Big joes are smaller i think.
Isnt 1 big joe tire with 1 rim like 0,5kg ? I can say my shocks weight that much :)

1518 is a bit shorter than 1520. It is got 1800kv i like that. But as it is shorter and more kv, means it will get hotter than 1520.
1717 is just overkill. 1717 motor is fat and heavy while 1520 is lighter but still can Kick.

-Tvps i would buy 4mm, 5mm is not needed.(you save weight)

-Roof is good to have. Protects from dirt and splashes. (You can also send him a drawing or some picture and ask him if he can or put it on the roof) ..i like that.

- If you jump a lot, it is good to have stronger skid plates. I didnt have any problems with stock ones which i am still using.

-Savage servo plate, it holds servo better than stock. No flex, as plastic case flexes a bit. Personally i am using big scale servo "1:5 size", so for me it was a must :) Also you save a lot of space going with just a plate.
Why buy 2 servos if you can get 1 big scale and strong servo.
Dont forget to buy a separate Bec and disconnect red wire from ESC.

- Stock slipper is rubbish, i am using slipper locker kit. Works for me very good. Depends what you want... if you have heavy truck maybe better to go with slipper gen 3? Cant say much as i am not using Gen 3 slipper. But looks good. Maybe ask someone elsewhere if gen 3 works for them... I always say, my slipper is my finger


If you use heavy tires "big joes" + 5mmm tvps + 1717motor, your 5b will be heavy. I know my car is heavy, but it still moves like a boss.

If you make it light 1:5 than you could go with 1518 maybe. But if you make it heavy... better to go with 1520. Remember also, if your rig will be to heavy, your parts on flux will get used faster. When you crash or hit something your parts will broke and bend easier than if your "car" was light.


What lipos will you use?
5B Body and body mounts?

[Cain]

Thank you for the info.

Do you know anyone using the 4mm TVP plates versus the 5mm TVP plates and there opinions on it?

I got these weight numbers from Dejan (awesome guy by the way, really spends time helping the customer with questions)

5mm aprox. 860g, 4mm aprox 690g.

so 170 gram difference, or for us used to lbs, over a 1/3 lb savings in weight.

He also did mention that he could do the chassis in the following:

3mm 6082 525g
4mm 6082 696g
5mm 6082 854g
3mm 7075 554g
5mm 7075 918g

what are your thoughts on 3mm 6082 material or 7075?

Thanks for the info on the motor. Right now, I am going to give the 1518 a go and see how I like it but set it up with a lighter setup as you suggest. Worse case scenario, I go with the 1717. I am thinking if I have heat issues with a lighter setup on the 1518, the bigger 1717 may just be what I need.

I plan to sell the big joes when they come in and go with something lighter for sure. May even use some MCD rims and tire setup as I like the width and how light they are on the MCD buggy I currently have. or some GRPs for onroad. Just hoping that the wide axle setup with 24mm hexes holds up, or, Rummy can get back to me about how he got those custom ones made.

For the servo, I guess I am spoiled by MCDs dual servo action with the Hitec 5755MG it has on it. I am thinking that based on what I am seeing in pics and all, it could be possible to rig up two servos at once. The specs on the Hitec 5755MG that I probably would use are:

Operating Speed: 0.15sec/60° at 6.0V
Output Torque: 25kg-cm(347oz-in) at 6.0V

Based on that, the following is close to being the same on a 1/10 sized servo:

HS-7955TG Digital HT Titanium Gear Coreless Servo

Speed: 0.15 sec/60 degrees at 6.0V
Torque: 333.29 oz-in (24.0kg-cm) at 6.0V

I could potentially if I figure out the setup, use two of these servos and really whip the steering around.

another option would be this one too:

Hitec HS-7954SH High Voltage Ultra Torque Dual BB Servo

Voltage: 6.0V
Speed: 0.15 sec
Torque: 333 oz/in

Voltage: 7.4V
Speed: 0.12 sec
Torque: 403 oz/in

I am thinking of running an external receiver pack to eliminate any BEC issues that the internal one could have or an external one could have if it fails and sends all the voltage to the receiver and servos. a Nice 7.4V receiver lipo could work well. Maybe even use one of those shorty packs to get the 4400mah but smaller size ...

And if all else fails and I can get the dual servo setup to work I am thinking, I could just use it as a single setup, and the extra space left by the plate could save some weight or throw a transponder there lol.

For the top roof plate that you had custom etched, how much did he charge to do that? Looks very cool!

When you mention the skid plates, are you running his skid plate that he offers? I am assuming that it runs the length of the chassis from the plastic plate to the next plate.

Are you seeing any benefit from the lengthened motor plate at all? I am thinking for now to run the battery boxes, use the lipo plate for the ESC possibly based on a pic I saw of someone's conversion or use that lipo plate to possibly mount my receiver battery lipo in some fashion.

As for batteries I plan to use, not sure yet. I am a fan of promatch batteries from past experiences, so I may pick up 2 of there 3S lipos to try out first.

There is a guy on beat your truck who uses the Gen 3 slipper. Will see what he thinks. But in your useage with jumps,bumps, etc. you haven't found a need for an actual slipper or do you mainly do onroad style runs? I agree on the finger thing for sure, i let off when coming down on a hard jumps, etc.

how important do you feel his savage bulkhead brace conversion is?

yeah, I am curious to see how it works out, but I am excited. I have an MCD RR V4 here, and I really like it but I am an electric man at heart. Plus, parts are way up there compared to what I am seeing on the savage costwise. I figure if this can be reasonably durable, it will work itself out pricewise and be easier to get local part support too.

Thank you again for all your advise and info!

So for right now, this is what I am thinking to buy:

- Alza Racing 5B 4mm or 5mm Conversion (leaning towards 4mm )
- Savage Flux 1717 motor mount
- Savage Flux 5B Lipo Plate
- Savage dual servo plate


Potentially
- Savage 5b skid plate
- Savage 5b roof plate
- Savage Bulkhead brace conversion
- Savage Flux Motor Plate XL
- Slipper locker

[Knez]

Well, i dont know anyone using 4mm tvps on 5b. One of my friends will use 3mm tvps on hes 5b savage. But waiting for bushings for shocks so he will be rtr soon i hope.

Dejan is nice..i sometimes even call him and he provides help. He is doing hes job like a boss.

I would go with 4mm 6082.

Well i think it could be done, dual servos. But for that you need to ask Dejan not me :)

Third lipo pack for servos would mean you are not saving weight.
External bec would mean you are saving weight and protecting esc at the same time.

Cant say much for the roof, as i was ordering with friends and i just dont know how much he wanted for the roof. The roof is also holding front window wich i made from left overs from 5b body. When you cut out middle for tvps, what is left you trim a little and it is perfect for front window.

I am on stock skid plates. And if you mean skid plate as a guard for center dogbones. I am not using it, as it would gather dirt. Tvps have holes.
Only way would be if some kind of a sticker would be used on tvps and than dirt would not gather.

Motor plate i got stock. Not XL as you want to order :)

I dont think i need a slipper. Also when i had it it always slipped to much for me and the slipper screw couldnt not get it any tighter. So only thing left was slipper locker kit. I am using 2 nuts same as on the slipper i had.

If promatch batteries are cheaper than HK lipos, than go with those if not, just buy the HK lipos.. for me those work very well and are cheap.

Would say bulkhead brace conversion is important for big and hard jumps.

I use hes wide bulkhead brace conversion as i bought FLM dogbones.

Weight distribution is important when converting to a longer car, specially when you intend to do big jumps.


"lighter 5b" this is what i see: stock size motor plate, Bec, one strong servo, 4mm tvps or maybe 3mm tvps with alu braces all around, No battery boxes and 1518 motor + some light tires with around 175mm diameter, all wires cut to minimum.

[Cain]

big thanks on the info!

right now trying to see about getting info on the beefier spacers I have seen pics of to better support the axles on 24mm.

[Knez]

No problem!

Yes i just searched the forum and saw those spacers..thanks.

[Cain]

I am wondering if some bearings I found that when using two of them are similar in size (abeit, bigger outer diameter) could be used in the same way as the custom spaceer.

Going to probably order a pair and see.

So, now the list is like this LOL:


- Alza Racing 5B 4mm Conversion
- Savage Bulkhead brace conversion
- Savage Flux 1717 motor mount
- Savage Flux 5B Lipo Plate
- Savage diff locker

Thank you again for all your help!

[Knez]

No problem, anytime if i can help.

Make shore you report on the bearing thing.

One question, will you take the CF brace conversion or Alu ?

As i see he is got CF items to now...that would be even lighter. But the price is higher for CF as i see on the site.

[Cain]

he mentioned that, but the prices... oh the prices lol. I am kind of still debating 3mm 7075 versus the 4mm for the weight savings, but quite a bit difference in price.

I will definitely report back on the bearing. I am thinking that if I am looking at it right, basically the spacer pushes up against the inner "ring" on the bearing so it doesn't push up against the part where the balls in the bearings are, locking itup (that little lip on the bigger one).

I am hopeful that with these bearings, maybe since they are bearings and not just spacers, it will be a non issue as they will allow the axle to rotate inside them?

again,my understanding could be way off for sure. But, the cost of the bearings if I recal l correctly is like only $1.75 shipped per bearing. worth trying out on 1 axle to see if it spins freely.


By the way,those wheels and tires you are using, is it possible to get them in the states? If so, have you seen them on ebay? what is there name and model number exactly?