Savage flux xl build

Had my first run and noticed a few things.
First the wires got extremely hot, also the connectors got hot and the esc fan was constant on, is this motor so power hungry that normal (fake) deans dont cut it?
The motor got 60C (140f) on this little test run, the end bell was the hottest place, so i believe this has to do with the hot wires and esc.
The battery even with the hot wires where not unusual hot, like 30c (86f)
Running 6000mah nano tech 25c

On the stock 1515 the esc and wire temp where normal(wire ambient ore close to ambient).

Regarding gearing, running the High speed idle and 22t pinion with stock spur it was almost the same speed as with 1515 and stock gearing,, mayby slightly lower. gonna try some bigger wheels ore an tires like the terra pins ore somthing like that.. really need some suggestion regarding that.


[YOUTUBE]wFAVi8loGGs[/YOUTUBE]
[YOUTUBE]nPSNfZrnkLo[/YOUTUBE]
(it was slightly hard to film and drive at the same time)

I think you are way over-geared. With the high speed idler, 1717 motor, 22/44 gearing and on 6S you are geared for over 70mph and that is before you factor in any tire ballooning. Way too much I think and the amp draw from the heavily loaded 1717 motor would be pushing the MMM to and probably beyond it's limits. If you don't believe me enter your setup into the Speed calculator on Scriptasylum.com and you will see. Drop your pinion to 18T and you should be geared for just under 60mph which I think will fix the overheating problem.

Also Deans (even worse fake Deans) connectors don't really cut it in my book when it comes to high draw applications. For a setup like yours the Castle 6.5mm bullets would be much better.

Originally Posted by BIG-block

I think you are way over-geared. With the high speed idler, 1717 motor, 22/44 gearing and on 6S you are geared for over 70mph and that is before you factor in any tire ballooning. Way too much I think and the amp draw from the heavily loaded 1717 motor would be pushing the MMM to and probably beyond it's limits. If you don't believe me enter your setup into the Speed calculator on Scriptasylum.com and you will see. Drop your pinion to 18T and you should be geared for just under 60mph which I think will fix the overheating problem.

Also Deans (even worse fake Deans) connectors don't really cut it in my book when it comes to high draw applications. For a setup like yours the Castle 6.5mm bullets would be much better.

if you check the gearing with the motor kv you will notice it geared for an lower top speed now than with the smaller 1515 motor and stock gearing. also after the rebuild the drivetrain is smother and not least i was only driving on taramc with and bigger motor, lower gearing and smother drivetrain.. the weight increase compared to the stock xl kit is also marginal.
besides im not running 6s but 5s :)

i checked all the connectors and notice that one of the deans on the esc was badly soldered from factory, the wire was barly touching the bar. so i reoldered and took it for an test run and wolla a lot more power and no more hot wires.. but the fun only lasted a few min before esc smoked on me.. also noticed it wasn't any spark when i connected the batteries so i believe the esc was faulty from the previous run.
When i think about it i should have taken a pic of the solder job but i dident now the esc was about to smoke on me.

so the with the 1515 the solder job did an ok job,but with the 1717 i got hot wires. so the 1717 must pull a lot more current through the esc

According to your info in regards to gearing this is what you would have been running with the 2200kv motor and stock setup.

Differential Ratio: 3.2222222222222223
Transmission Ratio: 2.215277777777778
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 44
Pinion Tooth Count: 20
Total Voltage: 21.00
Motor KV: 2200
Tire Diameter (inches): 6.3
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0.006
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.2 : 1
Total Ratio: 15.70386 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 19.79 inches (502.72 mm)
Rollout: 1.26:1
Total Motor Speed: 46200 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 55.14 mph (88.57 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 2200
KT constant: 0.61 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Power: Amperage not specified...

That's still pretty tall gearing in my book but with you current setup it gets worse. Now with the 1717, 39T idler and you 22/44 gearing you are pushing past 60mph on 5S. That is too high IMO and I am sure others will agree.

Differential Ratio: 3.2222222222222223
Transmission Ratio: 1.5366847826086956
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 44
Pinion Tooth Count: 22
Total Voltage: 21.00
Motor KV: 1580
Tire Diameter (inches): 6.3
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2 : 1
Total Ratio: 9.90308 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 19.79 inches (502.72 mm)
Rollout: 2.00:1
Total Motor Speed: 33180 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 62.8 mph (100.87 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 1580
KT constant: 0.86 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Power: Amperage not specified...


Plenty of people use the 1717 motor with a MMM esc and have no issues what so ever. My friend has the 1717 in his Savage and he is beating the snot out of it on 6S every day with a HW 150A ESC. Only difference is he got his gearing a lot lower than you. I have also ran the 1717 in my E-Revo with the MMM, geared for just under 60mph on 6S and everything stayed cool.

Originally Posted by BIG-block

According to your info in regards to gearing this is what you would have been running with the 2200kv motor and stock setup.

Differential Ratio: 3.2222222222222223
Transmission Ratio: 2.215277777777778
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 44
Pinion Tooth Count: 20
Total Voltage: 21.00
Motor KV: 2200
Tire Diameter (inches): 6.3
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0.006
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.2 : 1
Total Ratio: 15.70386 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 19.79 inches (502.72 mm)
Rollout: 1.26:1
Total Motor Speed: 46200 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 55.14 mph (88.57 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 2200
KT constant: 0.61 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Power: Amperage not specified...

That's still pretty tall gearing in my book but with you current setup it gets worse. Now with the 1717, 39T idler and you 22/44 gearing you are pushing past 60mph on 5S. That is too high IMO and I am sure others will agree.

Differential Ratio: 3.2222222222222223
Transmission Ratio: 1.5366847826086956
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 44
Pinion Tooth Count: 22
Total Voltage: 21.00
Motor KV: 1580
Tire Diameter (inches): 6.3
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2 : 1
Total Ratio: 9.90308 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 19.79 inches (502.72 mm)
Rollout: 2.00:1
Total Motor Speed: 33180 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 62.8 mph (100.87 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 1580
KT constant: 0.86 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Power: Amperage not specified...


Plenty of people use the 1717 motor with a MMM esc and have no issues what so ever. My friend has the 1717 in his Savage and he is beating the snot out of it on 6S every day with a HW 150A ESC. Only difference is he got his gearing a lot lower than you. I have also ran the 1717 in my E-Revo with the MMM, geared for just under 60mph on 6S and everything stayed cool.

the high speed idle makes it 20% faster and the pinion from an 20t to an 22t. The motor i changed from an smaller 2200kv to an 1580kv.. the top speed is like the same as with stock motor and gearing.
as you can tell from your own calculation you will notice that my current statement is correct ore close to. but your tire size ore somthing is wrong i can tell the top seed is far from 100kmt
many uses an 25t pinion and 6s on the stock 2200, way higher gearing that i have.. the issue is not the gearing.

dont want a slower truck than i had


(have slightly edited this post)

Mounted a new mamba monster with 5.5mm bullets and this thing works flawless
both motor, esc and battery where nice and cold the entire run and the power is unbelievable.


happy,


regarding gearing i think im on a sweet spot ore maybe im gonna try some bigger tires (its about the same as the stock speed).

gonna open the esc tomorrow and take som pic, im pretty sure its one of the fets.

[a6m532]

Hi Freddy,
How is your savage flux xl, is the tranny and gear holding up to the power of the 1717. Have you encounter any problem with your slipper clutch?

my slipper is locked, so no issue there.

the truck is holding up fine, just the gearing thats a bit to high. the motor and so on is cold, but esc is getting a bit to hot. not sure if its the battery ore esc, so im just gonna gear it down to 19 ore 20t pinion.

the best option is prob an bigger esc like the mamba xl.

[Krawlin]

I am amazed you haven't shredded a diff yet, I killed a rear diff on my Flux XL with a 1520 and 6S within 5 minutes for the first run, and within about 8 minutes into the 2nd run I killed another rear diff, along with something in the trans and snapped the set screw pin holding the drive cup to the rear output of the trans. Geared for a conservative 37 MPH (16/44 pinion/spur) with HPI bulletproof diffs. I know the 1520 has alot of power, but I didn't think it had THAT much.... Any suggestions? I think I am going to have to go with FLM bulkheads and HB diffs to solve the diff shredding issue, unless someone can clue me in on a good fix for this?

Sorry to hijack the thread, I am just amazed at how many people are running 1717's and 1520's in XL's without issues with the diffs or trans, yet I've shredded it all in 2 runs.

[mothman]

Originally Posted by Krawlin

I am amazed you haven't shredded a diff yet, I killed a rear diff on my Flux XL with a 1520 and 6S within 5 minutes for the first run, and within about 8 minutes into the 2nd run I killed another rear diff, along with something in the trans and snapped the set screw pin holding the drive cup to the rear output of the trans. Geared for a conservative 37 MPH (16/44 pinion/spur) with HPI bulletproof diffs. I know the 1520 has alot of power, but I didn't think it had THAT much.... Any suggestions? I think I am going to have to go with FLM bulkheads and HB diffs to solve the diff shredding issue, unless someone can clue me in on a good fix for this?

Sorry to hijack the thread, I am just amazed at how many people are running 1717's and 1520's in XL's without issues with the diffs or trans, yet I've shredded it all in 2 runs.

Wow! you actually managed to kill the flux diffs. Never heard anyone managed to break the 9/29 diffs- bevel and pinion gear.. the internal are not that strong.

are you stripping your bullet proof bevel gears? Thats amazing, never broken those. But depend of the driving style i suppouse. im mostly bashing in a gravel pit and im not gonna take those bacflip on flat tarmac surface, especially now with the xl kit with more weight in front.

with worn out cups i keep breaking the cross pin, thats the only issue i have had with these trucks. also broken a few a-arms and dampers, but thats to be expected.

Mounted dual big bores, way stiffer and little sag.

Had to mount a spacer in front becouse of turnbuckle hitting the spring retainer, but i still get plenty of shock action and the truck is bottoming out before the shock is.

The way i did it is to cut an bullet connector in half and heat shrink it. and of course get an longer screw for mounting.

[a6m532]

Hi Freddy,
You sure it is pulling more current ?. But from what i have learn from this forum, it seems that the general conception is that by using a lower kv motor and gearing to the same speed as a higher KV motor. You will get a cooler and more effiency motor. Not sure if my understanding is right

Originally Posted by a6m532

Hi Freddy,
You sure it is pulling more current ?. But from what i have learn from this forum, it seems that the general conception is that by using a lower kv motor and gearing to the same speed as a higher KV motor. You will get a cooler and more effiency motor. Not sure if my understanding is right

that was my thought to

have to correct myself, it depends on the gearing and voltage. if the car have the same speed and same voltage it would pull about the same. as this motor is bigger and the same speed and voltage it will draw more current

[_paralyzed_]

Krawlin- the shim job makes all the difference.