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brijar
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07.13.2012, 05:35 PM

If you buy that pinion, you shouldn't need a converter since it appears to already have a 6mm shaft which is what the stock Traxxas sliders use. If it were an 8mm shaft the whole way, you would need Mike's adapter.


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_paralyzed_
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07.13.2012, 10:17 PM

Basically you go till tight, and then back off one shim. Again, a tight constant mesh causes unwanted heat. You want just half a hair of play.

The more in depth answer is that if you are using "X" size shims, and if 4 is too tight, 3 may be too loose. You may need to use 3 "X" shims and one "Y" for a perfect mesh. 3 ".2mm" shims and 1 ".1mm" shim, for example.

When assembled, if you turn the diff input, the outputs should almost instantly turn as well. Then turn the input in the opposite direction. If turning the input in the opposite direction immediately turns the outputs in the opposite direction, it is too tight. There should be just a hair of play when changing directions, like 5 minutes on an analog clock. Just a tick. Not tight, but not loose.

Get a bunch of different sized shims. In this hobby they are nice to have around. You could spend a whole weekend on diff shimming if you want to get real anal about it. It will definitely help, but in the long run, everything breaks.

Diff shimming is the same as setting a spur/pinion gear mesh. Don't bury it in the teeth, but also don't leave it sloppy.


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zeropointbug
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07.14.2012, 12:13 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by brijar View Post
If you buy that pinion, you shouldn't need a converter since it appears to already have a 6mm shaft which is what the stock Traxxas sliders use. If it were an 8mm shaft the whole way, you would need Mike's adapter.
Yeah but the pinion does not have a straight through hole, so the cross pin/set screw on the shaft will not work. That's why I think the RC monster Revo adapter is needed.

Suicideniel, are you sure? I will look it up tomorrow some more, but I was sure that their are more than one.

Paralyzed, thanks for the info on the shimming method. I will have to put these things together when I get the V1 cases.


For the center diff, I was thinking of either using a plastic center diff mounts and use some aluminum angle to mount to the chassis. OR use Mike's UNIVERSAL center diff/motor mount somehow. I could prob situate the center diff to at least ONE truggy CVD, and then use Mike's Revo shaft adapter, preferably for the front. I shall see.


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_paralyzed_
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07.14.2012, 12:25 AM

Nope, the Rc-M revo adapter has an 8mm bore for 8mm pinion shafts.

What you would do if you want to use a revo shaft is simply get a set screw to use instead of the pin, or dremel the pin portion off.

But, if you are fabbing in a center diff dog bones and cups are the way to go. There are so many shafts available, you should be able to find a combination that works.


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_paralyzed_
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07.14.2012, 12:31 AM

for instance I used an lst center cvd and a hyper 8.5 front shaft to put a center diff in the last e-maxx I built.

I needed around a 100mm shaft, so I got into the r/c section of ebay and just searched 100mm. If nothing matched then I search 99mm, then 101mm. (you usually have a few mm's to play with)

I always end up finding a shaft that will work. If you absolutely can't find a shaft Rc-Monster Mike can make custom length shafts.


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