Help me pick out a subwoofer for this amp...

[BrianG]

Gotta be careful though. High efficiency doesn't necessarily mean hi-quality. Too-high numbers generally means poor suspension control which produces loose muddy bass.

I wouldn't quibble about sensitivity numbers, just make sure whatever driver you choose is in the proper size box. Proper box is the key! I personally prefer ported when done right; has more output at lower frequencies but response drops off fast (24db/oct) for tones lower than the port frequency. Subsonic eq is recommended. I've heard what people think of as crappy drivers sound very good. I've always pushed much more power than a sub is rated (usually around double) as long as it is clean (no clipping) and not listening to something like 20Hz tones all day.

[_paralyzed_]

It's a boston acoustics. I wouldn't recommend crap! And I linked him to a ported box. It seems we are on the same page BrianG!

[rawfuls]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

You really need an efficient sub to go along with that am. Something with over 90db sensitivity rating.

And you can certainly leave the stock rear speaks and just upgrade the front. Reas are just for fill, and do need to be crossed over pretty high. You can also trim off the top end frequency of the rears (10k and up is a good start) so you just have a midrange sound coming from behind you.

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

Like the one I linked to with 91db sensitivity?

Originally Posted by BrianG

Gotta be careful though. High efficiency doesn't necessarily mean hi-quality. Too-high numbers generally means poor suspension control which produces loose muddy bass.

I wouldn't quibble about sensitivity numbers, just make sure whatever driver you choose is in the proper size box. Proper box is the key! I personally prefer ported when done right; has more output at lower frequencies but response drops off fast (24db/oct) for tones lower than the port frequency. Subsonic eq is recommended. I've heard what people think of as crappy drivers sound very good. I've always pushed much more power than a sub is rated (usually around double) as long as it is clean (no clipping) and not listening to something like 20Hz tones all day.

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

It's a boston acoustics. I wouldn't recommend crap! And I linked him to a ported box. It seems we are on the same page BrianG!

All I see is blabber blabber blabber.
I guess if I want to start doing car audio it's time to start researching huh?

For now, all of your minds put together should be spectacular

Thanks again!
I'll let you know what the buddy thinks and where we go from there

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Gotta be careful though. High efficiency doesn't necessarily mean hi-quality. Too-high numbers generally means poor suspension control which produces loose muddy bass.

I wouldn't quibble about sensitivity numbers, just make sure whatever driver you choose is in the proper size box. Proper box is the key! I personally prefer ported when done right; has more output at lower frequencies but response drops off fast (24db/oct) for tones lower than the port frequency. Subsonic eq is recommended. I've heard what people think of as crappy drivers sound very good. I've always pushed much more power than a sub is rated (usually around double) as long as it is clean (no clipping) and not listening to something like 20Hz tones all day.

I guess it is just personal preference as I have always liked how a small sealed box sounds. A box like that does require a very good sub that is small box optimized, and plenty of power. When I did the box for m last audio car I ran 3 kicker l7 12
" square subs, and the box was built so that each sub had an individual enclosure that was exactly the same size as the speaker footprint and had around .8 cubic foot airspace. I angled the front wall to break up standing waves as well. The speaker response was very good, fast beats did not get muddy and the output was really good, with plenty of low extension. I did make a tubular mteal cage to mount the box, that helped to strengthen the box. My first design was made with thinner mdf, and the front wall blew off. Thicker material, construction adhesive and longer screws cured that problem with the 2nd design, plus I did a double front wall for mounting strength.

[_paralyzed_]

Heyyyy rawfuls- did your buddy get hooked up? I just realized the mustang uses 5x7 speakers. I just so happen to have 4 5x7 infinity speakers sitting here that I don't use, i'd let them go for $100 shipped...