For the 1940/8 you might want to use around 18-20v+( 16-18 sub-c cells or 5s lipos).
I dont know about the gearing ( if you are using a strobe setup, maybe a 18 teeth pinion with the 51 spur would be nice), but I guess Serum and the others can help you regarding this.
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The 1940 will be up to the job no sweat i reckon,like Serum says maybe even a 1930 for a lightweight racing setup.
I've been using a 1950/10 hi-amp in a 14lb LST on 8s lipo and it has plenty of torque.
I'm building a lighter version right now (9.5-10lbs)and i'll be using a 1940 on either 5 or 6s evo20s.I've been using evo20 3300s(because they fit in my 1/10 stuff too) and they've been great so far,i'm getting some 3700s aswell.
The hi-amp version is good if you want to solder on 5.5mm connectors rather than the 3.5mm on the standard versions,they're a much tighter connector although they add some weight.Either will be fine though.
I'd recommend the 1940/9 on 6s lipo,or 1940/8 on 5s,that's about spot on for rpm in my opinion.
I'd recommend the 1940/9 on 6s lipo,or 1940/8 on 5s,that's about spot on for rpm in my opinion.
Well this is what i'd do,or like coolhand suggested a few less rpms for more runtime,a 1940/10 on 6s would be my choice for the longest runtime,and only be a little milder than the 9 turn on 6s,all these should do very well on runtime though on 3700mah Lipos.