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BlackedOutREVO
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02.02.2007, 01:16 AM

LOL i think im going to pass on the carboard lipos.. altho it would be nice and light LOL

amd yay lol i want to see pics with everything in it
   
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neweuser
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02.02.2007, 11:41 AM

here is a shot of the bottom

here is a shot of the top

here is a shot of the side, but it's a bad shot! lol

this might be too far away to see...but it might be clearer


"if you've got something to say, say it peacefully"
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BrianG
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02.02.2007, 12:07 PM

OK, I see. First, I would use screws to hold down the fan mounts. Just countersink the screws from the top.

As to holding the ESC down, how about a clamp? A piece of 1/16" thick 6061 Al, about 3/4" wide that goes across the top of the ESC and then screwed down on each side? Or maybe make one side hook under the plate and then screw down only one side? Then you could use thermal paste instead of adhesive. It looks like the mounting plate is very close to being the exact dimensions of the ESC (on 3 sides anyway).

Nice truck BTW. :)
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BrianG
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02.17.2007, 02:00 PM

At last! It's done!

Wire routing was a challenge with the Quark, but I think it'll work just fine.

Pics:







And finally, a pic of the balancer Y adaptor. I made the leads quite long so the batts can sit in my Liposack without having the balancer crammed up against the sack.



The Quark is thermal-epoxied to a 1/16" thick sheet of 6061 Aluminum with a couple of these heatsinks epoxied to the sheet. I wasn't sure if 1/16" thick Al would transfer heat fast enough, but temps between the sinks and the ESC case are very close. And the sheet allowed me to secure it to the ESC mount without using zipties. Yay!
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jhautz
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02.17.2007, 02:14 PM

Very clean job Brian. It looks nice and balanced. Let us know how she runs.


I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...


Silent...But Deadly


   
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jnev
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02.17.2007, 02:10 PM

That thing looks aboslutely awesome. The wiring may have been a challenge, but it looks very clean and like you bought the whole buggy like this.

Have goten a chance to try it yet? Any estimates on run time and/or speed?


   
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BrianG
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02.17.2007, 02:13 PM

Thanks!

I just tried it around the house a little. Still too cold out to really put it through it's paces. I may take it to work later today (depending on temps) and do some drifting on the packed snow/ice in the parking lot.

Last edited by BrianG; 02.17.2007 at 02:15 PM.
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Cartwheels
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02.18.2007, 02:33 AM

Nice! I like how you ran the wires. Looks very clean. Very Nice! I glad you were able to squeeze the Quark in there too, it is really a great controller with the Neu motor. It's my favorite combo.

I modded my new Quark in my CRT. It's just great. I wanted to wait until the warrantee was up, but it was thermaling and since I modded it, now it goes forever and no thermals. I can't say enough good things about it.
   
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Aragon
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02.18.2007, 06:33 AM

Very nice. Hope we get to see a vid of it. Good job!
   
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Sylvester
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02.18.2007, 09:07 AM

Glad to see its finished Brian! NICE work!


The problem with nitro's these days are that they arent brushless... LOL

Losi 8ight e
MMM / Neu 1512 2.5d/f
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Serum
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02.18.2007, 09:12 AM

Keen conversion Brain! :) tight and sexy! I am using my Festool wood router with a 45 degree bit (with bearing) to make 45degree chamfer on aluminum. perhaps you can do something with that info..
   
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BrianG
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02.18.2007, 05:39 PM

Thanks guys! I'm glad it's finished too!

I was hoping for a slightly cleaner wire routing, but I ran out of room. But I was able to put all the excess wiring, the UBEC, and the capacitor (for the UBEC) in a little box under the ESC. The steering servo wire was VERY long, but instead of shortening it, I wrapped it around an itty-bitty space under the receiver.

The Quark is silky smooth so I'm glad I chose it over the MM. I set the neutral range to narrow and now slow speed control is impressive IMO, not that I'll be going slow much. :)

Serum, what do you think I should chamfer? Unless I find a weakness in the current design, this project is done, but I like to keep new ideas in mind for future projects.
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Aragon
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02.18.2007, 06:01 PM

Brian, my Jammin buggy is very similar to the Hyper 8. I was wondering what was involved in mounting your battery packs the way you've done (very neatly).

Are they bolted into the chassis only? Are you using spacers to raise the chassis side to make them level with the dust guards? How much height clearance does it leave below the canopy?
   
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BrianG
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02.18.2007, 09:16 PM

Yes, the battery trays are bolted only to the chassis. I didn't want ANYTHING on the plastic dirt guards, especially something as volitaile as Lipos. Don't need to be dragging my Lipos over dirt and rocks if the dirtguard breaks! :026:

Anyway, I used some nylon bar stock as a spacer because it is light, easy to work with, and self threads easily. I think I got it from McMaster Carr. It's about 10mm thick and about 20mm wide IIRC. 10mm is the perfect height to clear the dirtguard "nibs" (the little protrusions that the screws go into). Below is a pic of what I mean - the screw placement in the final design is a little different than this, but you get the idea:



As far as canopy clearance, I'm good. The shallowest part of the body is right at the edge of the sides, and the batteries don't go over that far. I still have about 3/4" or more of clearance at the worst spot. However, I did raise the body mounts about 6mm to gain a little wire clearance, so make that about 13mm without the raised body.
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BrianG
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02.21.2007, 11:51 PM

Well, after playing around with the buggy a little outside (difficult to find dry pavement with all the snow melting around here - but I'm not complaining!), I am quite happy with it. It is VERY fast...almost too fast from what I calculated. That got me thinking a little and then found that I got the 2d rather than the 2.5d! Lol, that would explain the difference in speed! I may have to drop from a 14T to something a little smaller like a 12T or 13T for cool running this summer.
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