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bluonyx
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10.19.2006, 10:00 AM

What would be the difference with the center diff vs. the Revo or emaxx tranny?
   
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BrianG
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10.19.2006, 01:58 PM

It's the center diff hop-up for the Revo tranny. The new Revo 3.3 has the option of using a center diff inside the tranny. Unfortunately, it only uses 4 spider gears, while Squee's used 6 IIRC.
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JThiessen
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10.19.2006, 03:10 PM

I'm reading all of this with great interest, but it still seems to me that bang for the buck and ease of conversion still falls with the Emaxx tranny. But I also recognize that without people doing things like this, we probably wouldnt have converted nitros!


Losi 8T 1.0, Savage Flux - XL style, LST XXL, Muggy, 3.3 E-Revo Conversion and sitting outside 425hp, 831 Tq Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel. It SMOKES
   
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TypeR #126
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10.19.2006, 03:47 PM

Hey Paul - No worries. I didn't mean to imply that the motor mount was too expensive/not worth it, I just wanted to point out for folks who want the nifty 2nd gear adapter that it's one of the cheaper parts of the kit. :003:

I'd like to see an optional base plate that is moved forward (the .25" you mentioned) to allow the pinion to ride completely on the motor shaft when using the Mod1 gears. Right now the pinion hangs off a bit.

As far as the rear brace, I've been tossing around a couple ideas. The simplest being a pedestal that could bolt to the rear of base that would be curved with the approxiamate diameter of the motor can, but not touching. And then use some kind of shock absorbing material to go in between, that would compress to the final shape.

The other idea is more complicated, and would make the use of a heatsink problematic, but would be like the Fine Designe motor mount that has a rear clamp to completely support the rear of the can.

I looked into using the Emaxx tranny, but once you buy all the stock Traxxas pieces and upgraded parts to make it work, it's much more expensive than Paul's kit (which also looks cleaner and performs better IMHO). If you already have those parts though, I can see why it would be an attractive option.
   
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BrianG
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10.19.2006, 03:58 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeR #126
As far as the rear brace, I've been tossing around a couple ideas. The simplest being a pedestal that could bolt to the rear of base that would be curved with the approxiamate diameter of the motor can, but not touching. And then use some kind of shock absorbing material to go in between, that would compress to the final shape.

The other idea is more complicated, and would make the use of a heatsink problematic, but would be like the Fine Designe motor mount that has a rear clamp to completely support the rear of the can.
Looks like we have a similar idea for the rear motor support. The pedestal idea may be simple, but simple is usually the better (and cheaper) route. Although instead of seperate pieces, just make the whole thing out of a firm rubber and wedge it in there. That should be even cheaper and simpler. It also would work with the slightly larger motors (Neu) since rubber does have some flex.

The heatsink clamp is interesting as well. To get around the issue of using the RCM heatsink, just machine it such that part of the clamp replaces the RCM heatsink bar.
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BrianG
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11.24.2006, 10:40 PM

Well, I was at the track today and I once again broke one of the little pins that hold the gear to the shaft (internal to the tranny). Is there a stronger replacement for this? It's the pin in the lower right corner in the picture below (borrowed from buytraxxas.com).



Other than that, the tranny is holding up well. All the internal gears show little or no wear and the locking mechanism (v2) works well.
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BrianG
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10.19.2006, 03:48 PM

That's true, but a big downside to the Emaxx tranny is the COG is kinda high when using the stock chassis. Not to mention that the strobe is not available anymore, so other methods must be devised for the slipper.

The Revo tranny works quite well with a couple of mods and is lighter than the emaxx tranny, especially once you remove all the unecessary gears (reverse, and 1st gear). The only "tough" part is locking second gear and that seems to have several workable solutions. Also, finding a suitable motor mount seems to be a challenge, but it's been done a few different ways with success so it's possible.

I like having the motor on one side and the batteries on the other for ease of replacing them. Granted, when using NiMH batts, the weight can be a little unbalanced, but the use of lipos should really help that. Even so, I've been using 14 GP cells all on one side and haven't noticed any adverse handling characteristics.
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