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Z-Pinch racer
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Posts: 3,141
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SK, Canada
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11.29.2006, 01:46 PM
Hey BrianG, what if you were to use a copper spacer in the esc instead of aluminum? Also, you could even cut out the bottom of the case and stick a nice heatsink right out the case and directly on the FETs. It would be a little risky though.
“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
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RC-Monster Admin
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Location: Des Moines, IA
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11.29.2006, 02:07 PM
A copper plate would conduct the heat better/faster, but really, Al works well enough once it is installed with less thermal resistance. The copper slab or cutting the case would work [b]better[/i], but I have had great results just doing what I did alone.
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Z-Pinch racer
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Posts: 3,141
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SK, Canada
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11.29.2006, 02:41 PM
Well, you know what, i think i just might do this. Where do you start then disassembly then? Do you have a unsolder the motor tabs then?
You can just give a quick brief, i can take care of the rest...
BTW, don't you love how smooth the quark is?! It's so juicy.
“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
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RC-Monster Mod
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Posts: 6,741
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: VA in the US
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11.29.2006, 05:57 PM
I am currently running a 1512 2.5d neu on it. It is currently run with 4s lipo.
Yes I have trid 6s limn on it. It had a bad start up. After I got it going it was
ok. It was like had to warm esc up or wear batts down a little. When I say
start up. I mean like first hook batteris up and try to go. Not stop and go.
I tried 6s with a 1930 10t and it poof fried esc and motor. I have ran a 9xl on
it as well. I tried a xl 1200 basic. I have tried a 12xl as well. All the motors had
same issue with 6s. I went back to 4s and have had no issues what so ever.
I do get about 45 to 60 mins of run time on 8000 mah maxxamps pack. :D
Peace!
Country
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Rc-Monster
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RC Monster, the Final Frontier
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Posts: 3,379
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Minnesota
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11.29.2006, 06:53 PM
Hey, that is pretty good run times CHC. I'm wondering what run times I'll be getting with my Neu 1515 1/y?
"if you've got something to say, say it peacefully"
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Z-Pinch racer
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Posts: 3,141
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SK, Canada
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11.29.2006, 07:00 PM
How i want a Neu motor... next year i'll get one, hopefully i'll have ran my 7XL before then. It's pretty snowy here now so, i'll see if i can seal up all the electronics and put my ProLine paddles on. ;)
Ya, that is very good runtime.
“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
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RC-Monster Admin
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11.29.2006, 07:09 PM
Quote:
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Originally Posted by neweuser
Hey, that is pretty good run times CHC. I'm wondering what run times I'll be getting with my Neu 1515 1/y?
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CHC's motor is only 2000kv for about an L size motor, which is not a very "hot" motor. The 1515 1y is a larger can and higher kv (2200), so I'd say between 25 and 35 minutes depending on driving style, weight, etc.
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Z-Pinch racer
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Posts: 3,141
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SK, Canada
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11.29.2006, 07:22 PM
Can you guys give an estimate what my runtime will be with the C-7XL, with the Quark125B and A123 pack of 5s2p of 16.5volts and 4.6Ah. It's a sort of buggy-truggy ;) ... it's high of the ground, but has 1/8 buggy tires (Badlands). The weight fully loaded will be around 7.5lbs.
Oh, and thats geared to go about 50mph
Any guesses? I am thinking around 15 -20max minutes?
“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
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RC-Monster Mod
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Posts: 4,217
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
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11.29.2006, 10:20 PM
Quote:
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Originally Posted by BrianG
CHC's motor is only 2000kv for about an L size motor, which is not a very "hot" motor. The 1515 1y is a larger can and higher kv (2200), so I'd say between 25 and 35 minutes depending on driving style, weight, etc.
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The 1512 is definitly a bigger motor than the L can motrs. Much more powerfull also.
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
Silent...But Deadly
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Z-Pinch racer
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SK, Canada
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11.29.2006, 10:30 PM
So, what do mean by that jhautz?
“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
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RC-Monster Mod
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Posts: 4,217
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
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11.29.2006, 10:40 PM
Quote:
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Originally Posted by zeropointbug
So, what do mean by that jhautz?
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Just wanted to point out that the 1512 is a larger motor than the L can Feigaos is all.
Bigger diameter and it puts out more power than a Feiago L ever would.
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
Silent...But Deadly
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Guest
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12.01.2006, 02:08 AM
You should really use the Arctic Alumina from Arctic Silver to bond the aluminum slab to the FETs. "Arctic Alumina Adhesive is a pure electrical
insulator, neither electrically conductive nor capacitive." here is a link http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_a...l_adhesive.htm . When I did mine I could not find it locally anywhere so I had to order it online. PC shops online are the best place to get this stuff. It is good stuff, but it's a perment bond!
I only bonded the outside FETs to the slab and case and did nothing on the aluminum slab that is sandwiched between the boards.
Your pretty brave doing this on a brand new controller! :027: but it does make a difference especially for bigger vehicles. It seems to cool quicker and overall more efficiently.
Last edited by Cartwheels; 12.01.2006 at 02:12 AM.
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Z-Pinch racer
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Posts: 3,141
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SK, Canada
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12.01.2006, 02:25 AM
Hey, just to add, it appears once i took a closer look, that the slab attached to the case is only touching on the edges, it's not even touching in the middle...
Yes i was planning on using Alumina.
Do you think this mod is necessary for a 1/8 emaxx buggy? It will weight in at about 7.5 lbs. What do you think?
“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
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Guest
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12.01.2006, 03:35 AM
hello zerpointbug,
may i ask you, are you try setup your esc the Drag Brake function yet?
it's at menu Table 3.2-3 and Table 3.3-2 , would you feel free to test it
and try power off then power on, the function will off , if you set ON before.
i have 5 esc 2 new(3color wire), 3 old(white color wire), 2new esc can't store memory (just Drag Brake) , 3 old esc is normal.
i want compare your esc with me.
Thank you..
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RC Monster, the Final Frontier
Offline
Posts: 3,379
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Minnesota
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12.01.2006, 10:30 AM
Quote:
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Originally Posted by andywpj
hello zerpointbug,
may i ask you, are you try setup your esc the Drag Brake function yet?
it's at menu Table 3.2-3 and Table 3.3-2 , would you feel free to test it
and try power off then power on, the function will off , if you set ON before.
i have 5 esc 2 new(3color wire), 3 old(white color wire), 2new esc can't store memory (just Drag Brake) , 3 old esc is normal.
i want compare your esc with me.
Thank you..
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How did you get 5 of them! WOW! Do you live in Thailand by any chance? LOL
"if you've got something to say, say it peacefully"
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