Couple of issues wih my Mamba Max

No, it would run hotter for sure, but not going to stutter because of that gearing assuming your last one ran good. Change 1 part at a time on the electronics, you will find it. Make sure the servo and esc wires arent pinched or insulation bad, that will do it also.

Its either

ESC
Tx
Rx
Rx batt
UBEC
servo
Battery

swap em one by one.

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by Bomb-Proof

No, it would run hotter for sure, but not going to stutter because of that gearing assuming your last one ran good. Change 1 part at a time on the electronics, you will find it. Make sure the servo and esc wires arent pinched or insulation bad, that will do it also.

Its either

ESC
Tx
Rx
Rx batt
UBEC
servo
Battery

swap em one by one.

Brian if the controller ran to hot would'nt thermael ?.

[Serum]

Hippie, Yes, a controller would normally thermal, if it runs too hot due to overgearing or such

If a weird short-cut is occured (or an error in the controller itself), it can actualy burn down. But if it gets hot because of a 'normal' situation, such as overgearing, the controller would shutdown, there is a PTC or an NTC in it which measures the temperature, and tells it when to shut down to prevent a meltdown.

Trust me Hippie, ask Jeremy as well, he can back this one up....

In a perfect world they all thermal and bunnies run free.

Not sure if Serum is disagreeing just to disagree or what, I would like to see some facts to back up this information. Then I can send you several bags of "facts" also. I have seen it numerous times in person, controller smokes...regear, try same new controller, runs for a year.


Now for my facts....
Here is a Hacker ESC in perfect working order, overgeared and nothing else.
I guess this is a "thermal"


Not trying to fight with you serum, but you are giving incorrect advice that can be a costly mistake for someone who takes it as fact.

[glassdoctor]

You are both right, and both wrong.. lol.

For example, the boys at CC swear the MM will protect itself, and they have tortured them with gearing, etc and it will not just self-destruct.

But we know from experience that a controller can self-destruct before it's self-preservation devices can kick in.

Maybe the MM has superior current/thermal overload protection than other escs... but I have seen a controller shut down like it's designed to do, and then one day it just smokes instead.

There is no absolute one way or the other.

I havent smoked the MM, and glassdoctor, I would be extatic of you are correct and hope you are. But, I have seem some of the best of them go up in smoke....And this includes Castle's controllers that were also suposed to be unsmokable, and only issue was gearing...and it was off by 2-3 teeth on the pinion. So, CC's almighty baracuda didnt thermal (mechanical brakes used, esc set to no brakes), and it was suposed to the the most robust esc in its class. It smoked violently after 2 minutes. Not a single thermal.


Exactly glassdoctor, thats why I said never count on a thermal to save it.

[Serum]

Disagree; in fact that picture of an ancient speedo isn't realy helping, do you think? and a hacker or a schulze isn't an MM either.. Hackers where not known to be the most stable ones available.

If you simple read a bit better, you would observed there are more words in my sentences i use.

if you read it, you would have seen the word 'normally' i typed in that sentence..

But i personally think you bring along a rather large amount of attitude in your posts.

Just read my earlier post a bit closer than you did, and you will see there is NOTHING in it that isn't right. (perhaps some grammar errors, but that is not the point right now)

[Serum]

Controllers JUST go up in smoke for nothing.. Ask schulze..

http://rc.stuurmijmail.nl/BurnedSchulze/index.html

But if it gets hot because of a 'normal' situation, such as overgearing, the controller would shutdown,

mmm k.


I do agree with schulze statement. I am the reason for half the shulze "don'ts" on thier list.

[coolhandcountry]

Well the esc should protect itself. It is a human made device and can malfunction.
If you keep an eye on temps you can adjust with out thermal.
Are you sure the esc fried because it was above the thermal range.
Anything can happen at any time. Of course if you take a temp after it fries
it will probably be above the thermal point as well.

I agree 100% that it should protect itself, but they dont. None of them should smoke, but we know thats not the case. Yes coolhand, we know for a fact that was the case...we had laptops monitoring everything on the truck so we had a good feel of what was happening...not just a guess.

The problem is, the sensor doesnt monitor every part in the esc. When they heat up very quickly, the sensor is still reading a normal temp and by that time, smoke is out. If you bring one to thermal temps slowly, its easily going to shut down. As a matter of fact, I smoked two ESC's lately running a dually, one came unplugged from Rx , so I was running one way overgeared motor. Ran for about 2 seconds before smoke cloud. I didnt have time to let off when the power dropped, it happened that quickly....twice. Also did it with an Aveox. So thats 5 times I have personally done it when it should have thermalled but didnt. :028:

[Serum]

Preventing a thermal shutdown is better than having one, no doubt.. My advice is to use a tempgun and measure the temp of the setup.. (motor/batteries and speedo) and use the rule of thumbs on temperature in the FAQ made by Batfish.

[Serum]

'The problem is, the sensor doesn't monitor every part in the esc.'

Nope, that's a fact. an immediate temperature rise isn't coming from over gearing though.. many other factors might give an immediate rise in temperature.

I drove my schulze 18.97 with bigmaxx on 16 cells geared for 115 km/h.. guess what.. No thermal, and no burned esc.. (surprising, since schulze jumps every occasion it can to burn..) With brushless you never know..

Best way to monitor your system is by observing the amps it takes, the temp of the speedo, batteries and motor..

But Hippie; i personally think it's either your esc or your receiver that is giving you your head-ache..

It will cause an imediate increase in temperature from overgearing. LOL.

Tell me your setup you are currently running Serum, the highest voltage system you have right now thats ready to run. Tell me your current gearing, I will tell you the gearing to run and run one pack through it. If you are correct, everything will be fine and you will get a thermal. This will be an excellent test, please get video as well. This will end all question.

My personal tests ( to compare to your results)
1.Aveox -overgeared, 6 cells, no thermal, smoked. Regeared for replacement, ran excellent.
2. Hacker- overgeared, 12 cells, thermalled several times, smoked
3. Shulze 88ce, 10 cells, thermalled dozens of times, never smoked.(BEC overheated)
4. Hacker- battery bar broke on dually, single motor overgeared, smoked
5. Mtronik truck- Rx wire unplugged on dually, single motor overgeared, smoked
6. Mtronik truck- Rx wire unplugged on dually, single motor overgeared, smoked
7. CC Barracuda- overgeared, ran 2 minutes, smoked
8. BK 3095- overgeared, burnt high end FETs, wouldnt get full throttle over it overheated, melted shrink wrap, never thermalled.

[Serum]

I don't know what your point is bomb, but i don't like your approach nor your attitude. (this is my opinion, judged on other posts you made, and this last one)

I won't bother going into this useless discussion with you. (with you it's more of a monologue IMO) To remind you; I told you that preventing an overgearing is better than running it. But there is a difference in OVER gearing and overgearing.

BrianG has made a neat calcultor to help you preventing overgearing. (if you used it, you probably could have saved quite some of the controllers you listed) (it also includes a neat warning feature if your motor is running at a high RPM)

But in this movie i had my savage geared 26/47 on 16 cells. (115 km/h) Guess what, the controller survived.

The reason why controllers burn, due to overgearing is because they current it needs to handle is too big. It doesn't overheat, it simple hasn't got time for it; it's just used beyond specification. if a fet is pushed beyond it's specification. Another problem with fetts and the earlier controllers, is that when they where rated at a 20 degree C temperature. If you take a look at the datasheets of most fetts, you'll see a drop in current it can handle when the temperature goes up. if a fett does 50A at 20 degree, it's not odd it does a 15 at 60-70 degree C or such.

As far as i can see, the setups you used aren't very capable of high currents.

I am sure that if i used 2P 16S GP3300's on that setup (bigmaxx/18.97) it would have burned.. No doubt..

If you would have came here in the first place and asked what gearing you needed for the listed vehicles many others, including me, would have helped you with picking the right motor and the right gearing.

Now, if i ever need help in ruining a controller, i know who to contact now.

this is a nice guideline to determine if you are on the right track.