Project: Savage Flux 5T

[Bondonutz]

Originally Posted by Nard Cox

I'm still driving with the normal gear set, for over a year now and it's still in one piece .. what am I'm doing wrong :D ?

Plug in the other lipo so your running them in series ?? JK

[thzero]

Rotfl.

Originally Posted by bondonutz

plug in the other lipo so your running them in series ?? Jk

[thzero]

Integy Rear Hubs... they seem decent enough. However, fit and finish wasn't greatest. I had to grind down the ball in the upper tie rod end to get it to fit. Also it was a damn tight fit with the bearings!! Should have taken a dremel and ground them out carefully, but I was in a bit of a rush so I suspect the bearings just won't come out!

Other thing is there aren't any instructions so you really aren't 100% sure what degrees of camber the three optional mounting points are. Will need to get out camber gauage and measure. I did use the #2 mounting point(#1 go #2, #2, go #1... ) for what I believe is 2 degrees of camber.



Put together with the XL axles and the 24mm HPI hub adapters.



Pic of them mounted (sorry unlike others, I am not doing shot by shot mounting instructions!).



So now after all that it does a great job of elimanting the slop in the rear end which should help the vehicle track a lot better. I realize that HPI saves money by using the same part on both ends, but they really need to make a plastic version of this as standard equipment.

I also tossed in the HD drive gear set into the gearbox.

Next up... I did actually take some "advice" and got some shock "socks" from badhorsie, so we'll see how those work out (or don't).

Following that, I am probably going to grind out the TVPs some to make room for a CC1520 1Y and run 6S instead of the 5S I am now. Although the CC1512 1.5Y would be a nice middle ground and its actually shorter than the CC2200 so no mods would be necessary to the TVPs.

Think I will also work on some lexan mud guards for the rear arms.

[_dV]

I have the same Rear Hubs and didn't have an issue with fitting the top stock arm into them. Maybe the pivot ball is a touch wider?

My bearings were also a tight fit but when it came to changing them they came out much easier then i expected. I just tapped alternately on either side of them with a small screw driver and they came out nps.

I have bent one of the rods that come with them but was probably just from bad crashes. Integy sold me a replacement set of rods separate from the hubs which was great.

Very much agree there should be a stock plastic part.

The horsie shock covers will get damaged by stone strike so the rear guards are a good idea to protect them from that.

[Bmr4life]

Originally Posted by thzero

Integy Rear Hubs... they seem decent enough. However, fit and finish wasn't greatest. I had to grind down the ball in the upper tie rod end to get it to fit. Also it was a damn tight fit with the bearings!! Should have taken a dremel and ground them out carefully, but I was in a bit of a rush so I suspect the bearings just won't come out!

Other thing is there aren't any instructions so you really aren't 100% sure what degrees of camber the three optional mounting points are. Will need to get out camber gauage and measure. I did use the #2 mounting point(#1 go #2, #2, go #1... ) for what I believe is 2 degrees of camber.

Put together with the XL axles and the 24mm HPI hub adapters.

Are those the HPI 86249 wide axles?

[Nard Cox]

Bondo, 2S in serie ... nahh that's plain crazy

Nice work!! But a 1512 1.5y in this, isn't that a tad light for this truck?

ps. I'm using RC Skin shock socks and they are holsing up good so far.

[thzero]

Tad light? How so? I'm running a CC2200 right now...

Originally Posted by Nard Cox

Nice work!! But a 1512 1.5y in this, isn't that a tad light for this truck?

[brian015]

Originally Posted by thzero

Tad light? How so? I'm running a CC2200 right now...

1512 or 1521?

[thzero]

1512 1.5Y. The important part is bolded. It is a 1800kv motor. The 1512 1Y is the 2650kv motor. Although its Amp rating on the 1512 1.5Y may be a bit low I suppose even though it has the same max. voltage as the 1515/1518/1520.

http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...le_motors.html

Originally Posted by brian015

1512 or 1521?

[brian015]

Originally Posted by thzero

1512 1.5Y. The important part is bolded. It is a 1800kv motor. The 1512 1Y is the 2650kv motor. Although its Amp rating on the 1512 1.5Y may be a bit low I suppose even though it has the same max. voltage as the 1515/1518/1520.

http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...le_motors.html

Then, yes, its too small - smaller than your CC2200 - its made for buggies whether its 1y or 1.5y.

[Nard Cox]

I'm with brian on this one. The 1512 is a buggy motor, the 1515 is MT/truggy a 1521 is for monsters like your ride ;). Oh well, I'm not expert but it just sounded a bit strange to me.

[Arct1k]

I'm going for a 1717 on 6s in mine - :)

[brian015]

What you're interested in is the power they can handle. If you look at Neu's specs:

1500 motor specs

you can see that the:
1512 is rated to 2000 Watts
1515 is rated to 2500 Watts
1521 is rated to 3500 Watts
etc.

It's not the kv that matters for choosing a motor for a specific size vehicle, it's the physical size of the motor and the power it can handle. Then you choose kv for the particular gearing/battery voltage/etc. of your setup.

[suicideneil]

Indeed- any 1512 motor is designed for a buggy or light truggy, weighing maybe 6-8lbs, not exactly ideal for a 1/5 MT weighing closer to 15-20lbs- I'd use a minimum of a 1515, more like the 1518 or 1520 if you were going with castleneus..

[thzero]

Well I am using a 1515 right now. :P But yes I will probably drop to a 1518 or 1520 depending what will fit length wise.

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Indeed- any 1512 motor is designed for a buggy or light truggy, weighing maybe 6-8lbs, not exactly ideal for a 1/5 MT weighing closer to 15-20lbs- I'd use a minimum of a 1515, more like the 1518 or 1520 if you were going with castleneus..