LOSI LST XXL Conversion ideas - Page 13 - RC-Monster Forums

jpoprock · 01:49 PM

Ok.. so just because they don't have a 3k weave that is 3mm thick listed, doesn't mean they don't have any right? I should email them I guess.

Looks like Ray did use 2.5 and 3mm on his project. I thought it was 2.5 all around. Now I need to go back and look at the thread to see what thickness he used on what.

They have some cool blue CF there, but it is like 4mm thick, and hard as a brick! Apparently, if it's too stiff.. that can be a bad thing. And I don't know what the rule of thumb is. You'd probl want a little bit of flex in the chassis. Do the towers and plates need a bit of flex too?

My guess is... 2.5mm or 3mm of any variety from that Ebay Store would be just fine. You could probl get by with 2mm if using that Texalium stuff.

Chadworkz · 05.25.2010, 10:27 PM

If I need to trace a paper or cardboard shape, I lay wide masking tape on the CF, covering it completely in the area I will be working, and trace onto the tape...then cut it out in my various methods.

Also, every custom CF part on my Revo that I made is made out of 2mm 3k weave.

Yes, just because graphite-girl doesn't have it listed, that doesn't mean they don't have it, and calling them is a good idea (I do it all the time...tell the Chadworkz sent ya). Like I said, they manufacture ALL of their sheets, so they have a huge stock.

1k weave will work fine, as long as the part doesn't have to sustain or support a load, but 3k weave is perfect for structural parts. Anything higher than 3k weave is expensive and overkill, really, so...

The larger the mesh looks, the lower the weave number. If the weave is very tiny, and you can barely see the fibers, that's a high-number weave.

jpoprock · 05.26.2010, 12:35 PM

You know... when I first joined RCM... I had it in my head that you guys were elitist snobs. But the only way for me to take what I knew about RC to the next level, I had to join and start asking questions. Even though I knew that I would come off like a total noob. I had to just swallow my pride and take my chances. The only way to grow and learn, is by surrounding yourself with people who know more than you do! That's why I have such a wide range of friends. I learn something from all of them!

But my reaction to you guys being elitist snobs was more based in my own insecurities. And even still, I have to ask questions that are so obvious to many of you. I'm really grateful that you all have been so kind and patient. I can assure you that I'm not nearly as worrisome and nervous as I come across. I just can't immediately tackle projects like some of you can, and I sometimes have to ask the same questions over and over until it sinks in. But you all have been really cool and nice, and I have learned a TON!! Heck, even Neil is nice these days

And I got him banned (again) from the Traxxas forum about a year ago, cuz he was being a grumpy arse, and the mods weren't havin' it.

Funny.

Anywho... Chad... for some reason I am not "gettin" what yer saying here. Like I said, I'm a visual learner. And I just can't visualize what yer trying to say:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chadworkz

If I need to trace a paper or cardboard shape, I lay wide masking tape on the CF, covering it completely in the area I will be working, and trace onto the tape...then cut it out in my various methods.

Are you saying that you lay the CF on the sticky side up? Then you trace around the edges with a pencil, directly onto the sticky part of the tape? Man... I just DO NOT GET IT! HA! Sorry. I don't get where tape needs to come into to this? I could see you taping the CF to whatever yer tracing so it doesn't move... then tracing the part yer duplicating over the CF. I'm assuming that you can write on CF with a pencil and it will wipe off?

The info you gave regarding CF weave was great. I needed that. So thanks!

Jason

jpoprock · 05.26.2010, 12:23 PM

So, i need to just drill holes based off whatever sized screws I want to use, and worry about countersinking them later. I'm not sure that I have enough matching screws and nuts in metric size (I like to use Revo screws for my Losi's and tap whatever holes I need to). Specifically on the shock towers. I retap them to accept 4mm screws.

Thanks Ray!

suicideneil · 05.26.2010, 12:57 PM

I think he means you just cover the CF with tape on one side, lay the part your are copying onto the tap, then trace around the part onto the tape. Then you use your dremel/ router / files etc to cut the CF to match what you've drawn- making sure to accurately mark the hole locations.

Im still not nice though- you should see me in action on BYT; them noobs be thoroughly cooked....

Chadworkz · 05.27.2010, 01:34 AM

Neil nailed it.

jpoprock · 05.28.2010, 08:39 AM

Cool. Thanks guys. Neil... you have a typo.. you said to "lay the part you are copying on to the tap". Tap? Omg... a TAP is involved now? LOL!

I visit BYT sometimes, but I don't spend much time there. I hang out here and no where else really. I'll have to check out some of the beat downs you've been handing out. I like to think of it as "conditioning".

mistercrash · 05.28.2010, 12:27 PM

I reworked the HPI Flux motor mount that serves as a rear motor support on my XXL. I made it thinner and lighter and did some sanding to make it look purdier. I also installed one of my 8th scale CDs in the tranny. It has something like 250k in it so it is stiff but still unloads a bit. Wheelies are still there but are more controllable.

Last I stripped a wheel with the Losi 17 mm hexes I installed. I measured the size of the Losi hexes compared to Traxxas hexes I had and wasn't using.

Losi: 16.87 mm
Traxxas: 16.97 mm

The bigger size of the Traxxas hexes should result in a snugger fit in the wheels with less chance of stripping them so I modified them to fit.

jpoprock · 01:09 PM

This is why I use 23mm hexes all the way. The splined Traxxas hubs are nice though and I've never stripped a splined hub when I once used them.

There aren't a lot of choices for 23mm hubs though. Proline's are about it, and I don't feel like they are all that great. The alum is thin and over time, the centers wear and become misshaped causing your wheels to wobble. I use another brand of 23mm hubs now, and they work GREAT. They don't work on Traxxas veh's though, because you have to use the Pro Line ones specific to Traxxas. Bummer. I generally don't tell anyone about them for fear that everyone and their brother will start using them, thus increasing the supply and demand... and the PRICE! They are dirt cheap now....

The other problem is... 23mm rims are somewhat hard to find too. However I've heard that HPI is coming out with a new hub size or something like that... which would allow us to use 1/5 scale rims and tires if we wanted. That could be cool.

j

mistercrash · 05.28.2010, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpoprock

I've heard that HPI is coming out with a new hub size or something like that... which would allow us to use 1/5 scale rims and tires if we wanted. That could be cool.

j

That is very interesting and I'll keep an eye out to see if it's true. I hope it is.

Bondonutz · 05.28.2010, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpoprock

This is why I use 23mm hexes all the way. The splined Traxxas hubs are nice though and I've never stripped a splined hub when I once used them.

There aren't a lot of choices for 23mm hubs though. Proline's are about it, and I don't feel like they are all that great. The alum is thin and over time, the centers wear and become misshaped causing your wheels to wobble. I use another brand of 23mm hubs now, and they work GREAT. They don't work on Traxxas veh's though, because you have to use the Pro Line ones specific to Traxxas. Bummer. I generally don't tell anyone about them for fear that everyone and their brother will start using them, thus increasing the supply and demand... and the PRICE! They are dirt cheap now....

The other problem is... 23mm rims are somewhat hard to find too. However I've heard that HPI is coming out with a new hub size or something like that... which would allow us to use 1/5 scale rims and tires if we wanted. That could be cool.

j

The CEN 23mm hubs fit the LST2/XXL/Muggy axles better than anything and their made of steel. They can be found on Fleabay for under $15.00 delivered.

mistercrash · 11:27 PM

From what I've seen from the specs of the HPI Baja 5B rear hexes, all that is needed is a small sleeve with an 8 mm I.D, 2.35 mm wall and 12.7 mm O.D. The hole for the pin would have to be drilled to 4 mm diam. on the LST's axles and then Baja 5B rear hexes could be installed on the LST to run Baja 5B rear wheels and tires all around. But I don't know if the hole of the hex would line up with the hole of the axle. So who's gonna do it

I won't. I have a bin full of many tires and wheels all with 17 mm hexes. When I use up all of them then I might look into other options.

JThiessen · 05.29.2010, 11:41 AM

I'll second that - so far my 17's have worked fine for me - nary a stripped hex so far.

mistercrash · 05.30.2010, 09:43 AM

My car is all packed, I'm going to the race track today for a few hours to see how well (or how poorly) this LST XXL of mine will handle an 8th scale off road track.

jpoprock · 06.01.2010, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bondonutz

The CEN 23mm hubs fit the LST2/XXL/Muggy axles better than anything and their made of steel. They can be found on Fleabay for under $15.00 delivered.

l

And thanks to Jeff... they will soon be $25 delivered. j/k

Ok.. the secret's out... I use the CEN 23mm hubs for my Losi's and they are great. Much better than the ProLines, and ghetto cheap!!

Just breakin' yer ball, bro. (say that three times fast!)

j