Hot bodies 1/8 diffs

[cmac]

The counter sunk washers are from the RC monster store,
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmmbkit
I don't want to even think about how much I spent. I also don't have a total list of all parts. This has been an ongoing process that has taken almost a year. Long before I joined this forum I was already in the planing stages. It all started when I went to 6s with my original Emaxx brushless. Everything was fine with 4s I only had the occasional broken part. When I went to 6s I could not run the truck for more than a few minuets before something was broken. You can ask me about any part I have I will tell you. I just don't have enough time to come up with an entire list. I barely have enough time to work on my truck with my 4year old and 1 year old. I'm ready to complete this project maybe some day down the road I might have the time, but feel free to ask any questions about the truck, if i know or remember where or how much I will tell you. It sounds like your truck is very similar to mine. All you would need are UE a-arms, CVD's and knuckles. A center slipperential and basically you would have my truck.

Originally Posted by cmac

The counter sunk washers are from the RC monster store,
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmmbkit
I don't want to even think about how much I spent. I also don't have a total list of all parts. This has been an ongoing process that has taken almost a year. Long before I joined this forum I was already in the planing stages. It all started when I went to 6s with my original Emaxx brushless. Everything was fine with 4s I only had the occasional broken part. When I went to 6s I could not run the truck for more than a few minuets before something was broken. You can ask me about any part I have I will tell you. I just don't have enough time to come up with an entire list. I barely have enough time to work on my truck with my 4year old and 1 year old. I'm ready to complete this project maybe some day down the road I might have the time, but feel free to ask any questions about the truck, if i know or remember where or how much I will tell you. It sounds like your truck is very similar to mine. All you would need are UE a-arms, CVD's and knuckles. A center slipperential and basically you would have my truck.

Is that $4 for one of those upper bushings, the tapered one ? If not how many Do they put in ??

[JERRY2KONE]

Try these out for size.


http://www.fastener-express.com/3mm-...ed-qty-25.aspx

[cmac]

Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE

Try these out for size.


http://www.fastener-express.com/3mm-...ed-qty-25.aspx

Yes that is for one washer.
I found the ones from fastener-express after I bought the monster ones. I even had to anodize the two I'm using on the motor mount. So you can see why I don't want to think about how much I spent.

Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE

Try these out for size.


http://www.fastener-express.com/3mm-...ed-qty-25.aspx

Are these about the same thing as the ones that come with the chassis? I did find the silver ones as well.

[cmac]

Originally Posted by dtnel

Are these about the same thing as the ones that come with the chassis? I did find the silver ones as well.

The only reason I went with the counter sunk washers is that I thought it would be a nice detail. No real purpose. I just think it looks good.

[cmac]

I need a 14mm wheel balancer. I have a balancer from dynamite but it's for 17mm hubs. The Hudy tool does not say what size the hubs are only 1/10, 1/8, 1/5th...etc. I don't want to buy one of those only to find out they will not fit. Any suggestions?

[JERRY2KONE]

I purchased a Dubro prop balancer that I was able to setup for 14mm or 17mm. Check out this old thread.


http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...HEEL+BALANCING

Also that other link that I provided was for 25 washers per box.

Originally Posted by cmac

I need a 14mm wheel balancer. I have a balancer from dynamite but it's for 17mm hubs. The Hudy tool does not say what size the hubs are only 1/10, 1/8, 1/5th...etc. I don't want to buy one of those only to find out they will not fit. Any suggestions?

I'd say email their support.

[Overdriven]

Make your own, I did. Mine looks like a bigger version of the dynamite one. I used a few pieces of 1/2 inch tubing (electrical conduit), welded it together (could be bolted instead) and a spare LST/aftershock knuckle and axle I had laying around. I had make my own because most MT tires are too tall and wide, truggy size is the limit for the balancers I've seen available.

[cmac]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

Make your own, I did. Mine looks like a bigger version of the dynamite one. I used a few pieces of 1/2 inch tubing (electrical conduit), welded it together (could be bolted instead) and a spare LST/aftershock knuckle and axle I had laying around. I had make my own because most MT tires are too tall and wide, truggy size is the limit for the balancers I've seen available.

Yes I think I will have to do that.

[cmac]

Well I just had to take the back half off of the chassis to get the center differential out of the truck( I did not think I was going to have to do that for a while), so I could add another wave spring to it. From one of the other threads it looks like three wave springs is the way to go for heavier trucks. It's now back together, and one half of my tires are glued waiting for them to dry. Does anyone know how long that takes? My carbon fiber turn buckles will have had enough time to cure around 1:00 today, and I will bolt those on, and then all I will have left are the front/rear skids, the front/rear bumpers, the motor, and electronics. Then I can punch the holes into the body. I will post pics soon.

Not to sidetrack but I emailed FLM to see if they warranty broken bolts in the hybrid bulkheads. I don't want to buy the rear bulks. I'm going to take a lot more time to build this as I've decided to add a lot more parts after seeing yours.

[JERRY2KONE]

You may want to try using a better grade of machine screw/bolt to avoid having this kind of problem. I have gone through every sort of hardware since getting seriously involved in R/C from stainless steel, to titanium, Tonys screw, Hexhead screws, as well as all grades of black steel screws. The best screws I have found are the grade 12.9 hard steel screws that you can find at a few hardware suppliers around the globe. The link below shows you just some of the screws I now use, and I have yet to strip or break one of these. If you want the best results, then you have to use the best tools and hardware to hold your expensive toy together. Lito turned me on to BoltDepot.com a couple of years ago, and I have not been disapointed yet. I have about $1000 in hardware from them in my R/C storage bins, and I have changed out everything on my trucks using their 12.9 grade screws. Everything looks clean, and everything works the way it should. These are hard steel and if you break these then you are torquing things down way to hard. If so start using a torque screwdriver to measure and torque your connections to the right level.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_sock...m_x_0.5mm.aspx

Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE

You may want to try using a better grade of machine screw/bolt to avoid having this kind of problem. I have gone through every sort of hardware since getting seriously involved in R/C from stainless steel, to titanium, Tonys screw, Heshead screws, as well as all grades of black steel screws. The best screws I have found are the grade 12.9 hard steel screws that you can find at a few hardware suppliers around the globe. The link below shows you just some of the screws I now use, and I have yet to strip or break one of these. If you want the best results, then you have to use the best tools and hardware to hold your expensive toy together. Lito turned me on to BoltDepot.com a couple of years ago, and I have not been disapointed yet. I have about $1000 in hardware from them in my R/C storage bins, and I have changed out everything on my trucks using their 12.9 grade screws. Everything looks clean, and everything works the way it should.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_sock...m_x_0.5mm.aspx

It was a tonys which I didn't expect. I probably cranked it to hard I'm guessing or I got one in a million that was bad. Every now and then a weak part comes along but not often. I broke one one the bolts that mounts the bulkhead to the chassis. When I worked on semi trucks years ago using the big nuts and bolts we did grade 8 was a big thing in the shop we worked in. They took the brute force. I wonder how the grading system works with the rc screws, bolts, etc.