my bl 18t!

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

It is very pretty

[crazyjr]

Originally Posted by t-maxxracer32

editing this thread because i figured out what was wrong!!

here are some pics of my 18t





used to be bl-is-futures but recently i bought it off him

running a lehner 1020 along with the quark 33 and a 2s lipo.

currently right now i need to order a couple parts before i get it running the way i want it to!
- airtronics servo
- mini spektrum
- delrin spur. (aluminum is too loud for me..)

once i order those things it should be an awsome little truck.

thanks!

I had a 1020/ 13t (5600kv) in a MLST, plenty of power to burn center diffs. It never run hot, even in a heavy (by mini standards) truck.

[Metallover]

The thing with this motor is that I can run it on 2s to just bash. If I want to do some speed runs or need some more while racing, I can run it on 4s. I am planning on getting the 1110 2.5D, which is 3700kv. Performance should be a little more then the ammo 3900 on 2s. Then I put it on 4s and BAM! hehe

[Metallover]

I wouldn't feel safe running that motor on 4s. 3s would be fine, but 4 is too much. I like to be within the safe rpm limits.

Originally Posted by Metallover

I wouldn't feel safe running that motor on 4s. 3s would be fine, but 4 is too much. I like to be within the safe rpm limits.

you could go with a 1105/3y (3500 kv)...that would get you around 50k

[Metallover]

I am going to use it in my vendetta and recoil. I'll run it on 2s in the detta for just bashing etc. and 4s for speed runs in either vehicle. The 1110 2.5D is 3700kv, which will keep me in the limit. I'll get about 55,000 rpms theoretically.

Here is a video of the ammo 3900 on 2s.(in a vendetta) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQ6k8bs9CWc
The Neu should be a little faster on 2s and blow it away on 4s.

[crazyjr]

My Mini Quake se had good diffs but lately they have been slipping bad on blacktop

[Metallover]

SHIM YOUR DIFFS

I have a stock diff in the front and ball diff in the rear and that holds up to my Neu fine. Thetoyz is coming out with steel diff gears soon if shimming them doesn't work. Do you have Duratrax Steel cvds?

EDIT: I think the diff gears are out, but out of stock. The restock date is 5.30.08, so I don't know when they will be back in stock.

Originally Posted by Metallover

SHIM YOUR DIFFS

I have a stock diff in the front and ball diff in the rear and that holds up to my Neu fine. Thetoyz is coming out with steel diff gears soon if shimming them doesn't work. Do you have Duratrax Steel cvds?

EDIT: I think the diff gears are out, but out of stock. The restock date is 5.30.08, so I don't know when they will be back in stock.

I've got steel cvds in the rear. I know how to shim a diff, prob is what with - the only thing I've ever found in a MQ or 'Detta diff was nylon washers - the very early ones apparently had some factory shims inserted. So what are you using to shim with? Steel shims like used for bigger diffs? Where are you putting them - what is it in the diff that needs the adjustment? Is it side to side play and pinion height or just the pinion?? Both?? I've never really payed that much attention - just replace it and get back to running, too cheap, not like one of my UE 8 spyders.

See no need for steel gearsets - don't see them on the Toyz anymore anyway, so they might not be coming back. If the ss shims I have will work, then the prob's kinda solved itself. Thanks!

[t-maxxracer32]

well 5/30 was over 2 months ago..

[Metallover]

Yeah... Try shooting an email to the toyz and ask them when they are coming back in stock. rj@thetoyz.com

[Metallover]

I don't know of any shims that will work made for RC. I just used some washers I found in a toolbox somewhere. I'll post a pic of them. That is where the shim should go. It should be about the size of the bearing. The only thing you need to do to shim your diff is put in the shim and go. While you have them out you could tighten or loosten it if you want. Good Luck! Tell me how it turns out.

Shims come in all kinds of sizes and thicknesses - if you ever need any go to McMaster-Carr and search on shim - they have them just about any way you can imagine. They are specified by OD x ID X thk - have both inch and metric. I forget what size I use for UE 6 and 8 sypder work, but I'll start there.

Where you have placed the shims basically moves the ring gear toward the pinion, so I guess thats where the slop is - the ring sits too low and mesh is poor. Cool - would be easy if you didn't have to open the diff. I'll try it on my ST where I'm still using gear diffs.

Thanks!

[Metallover]

You don't need to open the diffs - just take off the bearing. On the gear diff you just slide off a shaft and the bearing will come off from there. With the ball diff you just need to slide off the bearing to put in the shim.

Unless you are shimming the inside of the gear diff.. yeah that is what you meant. Whoops. I put a piece of thin plastic cut to a shim shape in there. It is holding up pretty darn good (in the front).

It really depends if you are stripping the outside ring and pinion gears or the internal... Planetary? gears.

Just a note about McMaster-Carr - They have absolutely everything you would ever need to build anything you would ever need. They even have 2.5" pvc pipe so you can shoot tennis balls....

[t-maxxracer32]

so i just placed a huge order (micro spektrum...spur gear, pinion, new servo) to hopefully finish this truck and everything should be coming in the next couple days.

what tires and rims do you think would be the best for all around bashing?