Another 8ight-T 2.0 conversion

[Shark413]

Update:

I recieved my Traxxas ESC mount and added it to the Losi. I used the existing holes in the Losi battery tray. Nice clean looking and holds the esc securely. The built in switch mount is also handy.

[Overkill]

That looks very clean with that TRX hold down thingy

I'm waiting for mine to be available in the next month or so, when they ship to hobby shops that freight international, can't wait, yours looks excellent

I hated the Losi motor mount I went with the RCM mount with my conversion

[Brian]

yeah yeah i know everyone hates it and ill probably get too eventually, but id rather spend only 3$ to get the losi to work as opposed to 50$ for an rcm mount. Shark413 got it to work, so its possible. ill only be bashing so if everythings not smooth as butter, thats ok.

[Shark413]

Update:

Ok I have taken the truggy out three practice/race weekends and put about 12 5s lipo packs thru the truggy. Continues to impress with great handling and speed. The 120 degree Smart Diff ramps and two .15mm springs seems to have reduced the front tire ballooning issue. I have zero issues with the electronics. The fit and finish of the Losi kit is a little less than perfect, pulled one shock end off. It appeared to be over tigthened from the factory. Another thing I noticed is the shock end does not seem to have as deep a thread as my Kyosho shock end did. Tore all the shocks apart an found one of the rear shocks had a stripped screw holding the piston partially on (from the factory). Since those longer shafts are impossible to find, I bought a 2-56 tap and retapped the shaft. One axle/hub pin was found to be broken and the stock front rims rub big time on the suspension arms. Kingheadz rear carrier is working great (larger bearing). But no major breakage and the drivetrain is still tight. Overall I am very happy with the Losi truggy, conversion kit and MMM combo.

[Shark413]

Took the center Smart diff apart to check. It had plenty of grease, the grease was still semi-clear and the gears, ramps, etc. still looked good. Have three race weekends on the diff. I have a Tekin T8 2000kv motor on the way and I will try that with my MMM ESC in a sensorless mode to see how it compares to the MMM 2200kv motor.

Thanks for the update. Have you had any of the steering woes I've been having with mine?

[Shark413]

Originally Posted by Electric Dave

Thanks for the update. Have you had any of the steering woes I've been having with mine?

Dave, no problems at all with my steering. I am using the stock 2.0 spring with the adjuster all the way down then one turn up. I am using the Losi optional aluminum steering arm and a Hobbico CS-170 servo (300oz of torque). Sounds like your EPA is set, so I agree it could be the plastic parts binding and not giving. When I was setting up my steering I could see the saver activate when I cranked the steering over (before I adjusted the EPA).

I just rec'd the 1.0 plastic parts today. I can already see it looks much better than mine, I really think I just got one in my 2.0 truck which wasn't molded properly. I should know more after racing tomorrow.

[Shark413]

My Tekin motor showed up today. I soldered the leads on and hooked it up to the Losi motor mount using the 4mm screws. The motor is very well made, it has both 3mm and 4mm mounting holes which is a great idea. I use 4mm whenever I can, to hold such a big heavy motor 3mm just doesn't cut it, a holdover from 1/10 scale electric. Anyways back to the motor, the front cover is removable which will make bearing replacement much easier, it is also held on with six screws, I have heard of motors with four screws getting ripped open on hard landings. I hooked it up to my MMM ESC and took it for a spin up and down the street, it feels just as strong as the MMM 2200kv motor. I hope to have it out on the track this weekend where I will be able to see if temps are the same and more importantly what my lap times are compared to my MMM motor. The Tekin motor also has a plastic spacer under the front cover, a nice touch, as it gives you a little extra protection from long mounting screws. I really like the solder on tabs, I had issues with the 6.5mm bullets I was using on my MMM getting loose and pulling apart, which required adjusting the bullet tension.




The MMM 2200kv and Tekin 4038 2000kv motors are about the same length.


Hooked up and ready to go.

[Shark413]

One more thing, I noticed that when using finned motors (MMM and Tekin T8's) the motors rub on the middle mud guard screw. It will snag on the screw whenever you remove the motor. I just took a dremel and just touched the grinding wheel to the screw, thats all you need.

[jzemaxx]

Anything on the track where you could compare yet?? Very interested.

[Shark413]

Unfortunetly I was not able to make it out to the track this weekend, but I was able to get it out on the street again hooked up to an Eagle Tree data logger. I have a nice flat area about 50-60 yards long where I can give it full throttle and full brake. With my tracking gearing I am usually able to hit 30+ mph in this distance. I checked for clogging from a stand still, and noticed that sometimes there was some slight clogging, once the motor was spinning it was smooth and powerful. I made 6 runs (full throttle/full brake) on paved road (100% traction) and then checked the temps/Eagle Tree data. The ambient temps were about 70 degrees, I checked the motor and it was 103 degrees, the ESC was 98 degrees. The Eagle tree showed it was drawing 140amps (max). Those numbers looked normal, but one thing happen that was strange, while I was checking the Eagle tree data I heard a fan whirling, I looked and the MMM ESC fan was running, I double checked the ESC temp and it now read 93 (cooled slightly), after a second or two the fan stopped. I understand the fan is supposed to come on at 140 degrees, but my ESC never got over 100 degrees, don't know why the fan came on. Will need to keep an eye on the temps when I do get on the track.