Quark fried, blown capacitor...

jhautz, I've already bought a Neu 1512 1.5Y, but I only bought it because it was a good deal; and at worst, I could run it in a buggy if it doesn't work out for the truggy.

I would, however, like to get my hands on a 1940/8 or 9.

[wallot]

Patient survived the surgery. Will see on Saturday what's gonna happen :)

And quark got bit more color thanks to only big enough shrink tube I had :005:

[aqwut]

hahha.. Geeze.. that's just funny lookin' man... hopefully it'll work good... :)

[jhautz]

That is just downright embarassing.... I feel so bad for your poor truck having to wear those goofy colors.

Aangel, I think that the 1940/8-9 would be a great chioce on the MM.

[ClodMaxx]

it looks like wrapped candy, wallot! :)

[wallot]

two 470uF candies :)

one small change - got rid of the ugly plastic that mounts the heatsink to the chassis and replaced it with another part of old alu skid thats already working as heatspreder inside the Quark. little bit of thermal glue and whole chassis + hybrids will work as one big heatsink :) - theoreticaly if the small contact area will do :)

[zeropointbug]

HEHE, looks like the Jokers clown truck. :005: It even matches your body colors!

Hopefully that will work well. About the heatsink thing, it won't add any more cooling that your silencer already has, the temp at the end of the fin tips would be almost ambient temp.

[wallot]

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

......., the temp at the end of the fin tips would be almost ambient temp.

I know:005:

[zeropointbug]

So Metalman, was this with a few caps into your MM then? So it made a difference for you too then?

BTW, I was looking at my burnt up Quark, and noticed that the two negative leads on the two caps are broke, so there would be no connection. I am wondering if this had anything to do with it cogging (probably), but whether that would cause it to start on fire? :032:

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

So Metalman, was this with a few caps into your MM then? So it made a difference for you too then?

BTW, I was looking at my burnt up Quark, and noticed that the two negative leads on the two caps are broke, so there would be no connection. I am wondering if this had anything to do with it cogging (probably), but whether that would cause it to start on fire? :032:

Wow, the caps effectively not being there could certainly cause the cogging. But, I think the burnt FETs was caused by the extreme currents during the cogging. A domino effect...

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

So Metalman, was this with a few caps into your MM then? So it made a difference for you too then?

It was with 4 caps. I haven't compared the performance with/without caps on the current 14/44 gearing, but I could. So, I don't currently know what the difference is. Although, the fan on the MM stopped spinning, and the MM was running very cool (118).

Originally Posted by AAngel

MetalMan, did the cogging problem get better as you increased the timing? The little note that came with my 1512 1.5Y says that the Neu is a four pole motor and it advises you to use "mild" timing. I'm sure that they are talking about helicopter controllers, so I'm wondering if helicopter controllers use the same timing curves as car controllers.

I first set my timing to lowest and cogging was rather nasty. I bumped it up to normal and it got better. I'm wondering if going to highest will be even better, but don't want to hurt my motor.

BTW, did you hardwire the motor? I'm using 5.5mm connectors, but will hardwire if it will make a difference.

I didn't have time to play with any settings at the track yesterday. My Revo had a problem that took a while to fix, and then the servo's wire ripped on the Hyper 8, then the heatsink on the Revo's MM came off, then I swapped the Revo's servo into the Hyper 8, and the Hyper 8's battery dumped. And then it was time to go home. Next time I can play around with the settings on the Hyper 8 and see if timing or startup power have any significant effects. The motor is hardwired.

If I were you, I wouldn't worry about setting the MM's startup power to high, considering how cool my MM was at the end of the run. Yours wouldn't be much warmer, I imagine.

When the heatsink came off of the Revo's MM, it did it very cleanly. None of the FETs were damaged, the epoxy just came apart. I plan on using some of the Arctic Aluminuma or whatever from the local computer place.

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by wallot

I know:005:

Cool temps huh. :005:

[MetalMan]

I got my Hyper 8 over to the track today with Neu 1512 2.5D and MM. Normally it is geared 18/46 (4s Lipo), but today I geared it 14/44. Cogging occurred MUCH less, but it was still there. Start power was high, timing was high (but not "highest"), punch control at 50%. Runtimes were good (BP-Revo could confirm) with only 5000mah, and nothing really heated up. The motor and ESC were both at about 118 (no fans), and the battery was at 100. This is definitely a good setup :).

[wallot]

i have to still measure the heatsink temp (always forget) but since the glue mod the quark itself is nicely hot

MetalMan, did the cogging problem get better as you increased the timing? The little note that came with my 1512 1.5Y says that the Neu is a four pole motor and it advises you to use "mild" timing. I'm sure that they are talking about helicopter controllers, so I'm wondering if helicopter controllers use the same timing curves as car controllers.

I first set my timing to lowest and cogging was rather nasty. I bumped it up to normal and it got better. I'm wondering if going to highest will be even better, but don't want to hurt my motor.

BTW, did you hardwire the motor? I'm using 5.5mm connectors, but will hardwire if it will make a difference.