My e-revo brushless edition build - Page 25 - RC-Monster Forums

suicideneil · 12.27.2009, 09:30 PM

Nothing like being a beta tester

mistercrash · 12.27.2009, 09:51 PM

If I'm a beta tester then I'm doin' it wrong 'cause I don't get free stuff to test.

mistercrash · 10:09 PM

Speaking of the Kershaw chassis, I should give an update regarding the total weight of the ''revised Kershaw'' chassis I am using. You know with the new carbon fiber chassis braces I made and the thicker carbon fiber bottom plate I made.

So here goes with the weights of the stock ERBE chassis, the Kershaw chassis and the modified kershaw chassis. That would be the truck with no wheels, body or batteries in it.

Stock:
weight at the front: 1599 grams
weight at the rear: 1714 grams
total weight: 3313 grams

Kershaw Design:
weight at the front: 1629 grams
weight at the rear: 1714 grams
total weight: 3343 grams
30 grams heavier than stock

Modified Kershaw Design:
weight at the front: 1653 grams
weight at the rear: 1741.5 grams
total weight: 3394.5 grams
81.5 grams heavier than stock. Very well worth the extra weight for the added stiffness, durability, more battery choices and it looks cool.

phatmonk · 12.28.2009, 09:43 AM

So what exactly is Kershaw saying?Will the 2.2 version be machined properly no crooked countersinking etc....

mistercrash · 12.28.2009, 10:06 AM

No it doesn't say anything about the counter sinks but Dan mentions tighter tolerances.

mistercrash · 02:23 PM

Snow testing continues today. I wrapped the lipos in 12'' party balloons and zip tied the opening around the wires making sure to stuff some petroleum gelly in there first. Then after I recharged the packs I smeared some petroleum gelly on the balancing tabs. No shower cap this time as I wanted to test the polyurethane coating I put on the ESC circuit boards and the servo casing.

yesterday night I sprayed the whole truck with a generous coat of silicon lube spray and let dry over night. This is just an attempt to protect the metal parts and screws from rusting too much. I ran the truck in the woods in 1 to 2 inches of snow, jumped some small snow banks, went through deep slushy puddles, the works. This is how it looked when the LVC kicked in.

Plastic doesn't like the cold. But this is the only damage after the test. I broke one of my old MT rims with Bowties mounted to them.

The balloons worked very well in keeping the lipos dry. One had a little rip probably due to the lipo moving and rubbing on the battery strap. But since the balloon fit very tight on the lipo, no water got in the small opening. maybe it would be better to have two balloons over each lipo. Or have battery straps that are less abrasive.
The ESC and servo performed flawlessly, even though there was a lot of packed snow, slush and water around them. After I blew the moisture off with compressed air, everything still worked perfectly, the ESC didn't seem to mind having some moisture left inside it and the servo did not behave erratically like it once did before. I'm glad it worked because I was quite nervous to head out in the snow again with nothing over the ESC, I was afraid to fry something. The temps were way down with all the liquid cooling provided by the snow. Barely warm to the touch.

Chadworkz · 12.31.2009, 05:11 PM

Excellent!

mistercrash · 05:52 PM

Another fun testing of the water proofness of my ERBE. I say water proof now even though I said it was water resistant before because I really think that it is actually water proof. 2'' of fluffy powdery snow fell and after I wrapped my lipos with two layers of party balloons, I went out and had some fun. When I brought the truck back in, the body was packed full of snow underneath. I couldn't see the ESC or lipos, only a portion of the motor but nothing was affected by all that snow and water. Not the ESC, the servo or lipos. When I carefully took off the balloons, there was no trace of any moisture on the lipos. They were bone dry.
This Tremclad clear coat stuff I put on the MMM's circuit boards and the servo really seems to work very well. I put three thick coats and will probably put a couple more as added protection. I will also do my son's GERBE in the same manner. If anyone wants to try this stuff, here's a couple pics of the can.

phatmonk · 01.02.2010, 10:41 AM

Mistercrash why are your rear driveshafts in backwards?Flex-joint at the top instead of the flex-joint closer to the tire side.

sjcrss · 01.02.2010, 11:11 AM

I think he took the shafts apart, and flipped the shaft around, so the boot was toward the diffs, this sorta protects the sliding point, I believe......I'm actually considering doing this, once my new shafts come in the mail....

mistercrash · 01.02.2010, 11:43 AM

I started doing this before I made mud flaps. A trick I learned from ''WUDS'' on Revo-World. When the rubber boots are on the inside close to the bulkheads, there's less debris hitting them coming from the front tires. Especially running with a CD when the tranny unloads to the front wheels, they kick up dirt and rocks and throw them at the back of the truck at very high speeds. If you run mud flaps then it's not really necessary but I do it anyway because I'm just me

sjcrss · 01.02.2010, 12:05 PM

I think I need to make me some mud flaps... also MC, on the mount I'm fitting to my Erevo, there has been a slight issue with the way I mounted it, check the thread...just a FYI for you

phatmonk · 01.02.2010, 12:39 PM

So it would switch the leverage to the Diff side of the drivetrain putting more presure on the wheel bearings.I have RPM True track with larger bearings on the rear so I will try this out today.Besides it -12 deg F outside and I am board.

_paralyzed_ · 01.02.2010, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phatmonk

So it would switch the leverage to the Diff side of the drivetrain putting more presure on the wheel bearings.I have RPM True track with larger bearings on the rear so I will try this out today.Besides it -12 deg F outside and I am board.

yeah, shes a cold one today

sjcrss · 01.02.2010, 02:37 PM

MC, I'm going to be picking up a set of these from hobbyking... http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...dProduct=10285, and my question for you is, what kind of tap plug is on the end, is it like the hyperion, how and what do you use to balance you lipo's, I'm going to be using a lba10, that has hyperion plugs for the taps.... any suggestions.
Thanks