Quark fried, blown capacitor...

Neil, actually, the Quark "fix" is only a partial fix in reality. The are two sets of FETs in the Quark. One set, that is physically sandwiched between the two PCBs only has a rather thin heat spreader attached to it via thermal pad. The only way that heat escapes that set is through the air to the case from the heatspreader and through the traces and connections on the pcb that link to the set of FETs that are on the bottom of the esc. Truly not an ideal design. The mod that everyone is doing just allows a thermal pathway from the bottom set of FETs to the case.

The Compro, on the other hand, is rather robustly built. I really liked the feel of it. It has dual heatsinks and runs very cool. It also has a very substantial feel to it. When handling it, you don't feel as though you're going to break it.

The downside to the Compro is the software. Although I found the programming sequence to be easy enough, there are a couple of quirks. The biggest thing is that when running in a forward direction, the first application of reverse throttle applies the brakes, however; if you apply the brakes, go to neutral and then apply the brakes again (pump the brakes) the esc will go directly into reverse on the second application of the brakes. It does this whether the vehicle is still moving forward or not.

The way around this, is to use the forward only mode, but then you don't have reverse.

The second quirk is that you can't start at a creep with the Compro. Once you apply the throttle and it moves out of the neutral zone, the vehicle starts at a roll. Not real fast, but faster than a creep. It's fine for racing, but for bashing around in rocks and stuff, it might be a PITA.

The "problem" that I had, was that I couldn't program the free wheel option that would allow the motor to coast to a lower speed when I went from say 100% throttle to 20% throttle. Whenever I let off of the throttle, it would immediately brake to slow the vehicle to the speed of the new throttle position. This makes jumping on an off road track nearly impossible without wiping out.

All in all, I think that the Compro is a better controller than the Quark. The Quark is just a bit more user friendly, from an operation standpoint. The Quark is smoother.

[zeropointbug]

Yeah, I'm going to get a simple FET clamp for the Quark made so I don't have to get an expensive case machined first. To see how well it works, and if I am happy with no case and just a clamp w/ heat shrink on the controller.

I am also going to see if I can get my thermal probe for my Eagle tree to work, and see what kind of temps the top set of FET's get to in the Quark, and I know the surface area, plus I know the power throughput... I might be able to make some estimates of esc efficiency?

AAngel: How think is the PCB on the ComPro? THe Quark I think is 1mm thick, nothing much, but then again, it's in a case.

zpb, it's been so long since I've seen my compro that I don't remember anything except my impressions of it. I do remember that the flex in the Quark pcb when you shimmied the power leads made me nervous. The Compro, on the other hand, didn't have any flex at all anywhere. I don't know that the pcbs were thicker, but it's a better design none the less.

You really have to watch working with the Quark out of its case. I believe that one of the purposes of the case is to hold the two pcbs together and keep them from separating. Mine separated, but I didn't notice it until after I powered it on and nothing happened. I was checking out the setup before I put it all back together. I disconnected the power, pushed the pcbs back together again and turned it on and that's when I saw smoke.

I don't know. Mike has run his Quark/Neu combo hard and without additional caps. I may just quit monkeying around with the Quark and just run it as it is. I could just add a couple of caps in line with the power leads, but I can tell you that they are going to be taking a beating sitting there on a pair of wires that move around as much as they do when on the track. I'm going to have to figure something out.

When I get my Quark and Neu back, I should have what could be considered to be the Cadillac of brushless setups. I SHOULD be worry and trouble free, but that remains to be seen.

[zeropointbug]

Yeah, your Quark and Neu have not yet kissed yet. :005:

For sure add some caps onto the Quark, make the same bank you made for your MM setup, should work lovely.

Maybe the Neu is easier on the Quark, that is what I have heard on these forums a lot.

How many cells were you running on your so called "1.5Y" Neu? You said it was pretty fast right? The place you bought it does not have it anymore, did I tell you that?

Yeah, you did mention it. It's too bad because it was a good deal.

I ran the motor that I had on 5S with the MM and it ran good, except for the occassional cogging. There is no doubt that the 1512 has enough power for a light truck. At this point, I'm glad that I went the 1512 route and that little sale going on made it a no brainer for me.

Hey guys, guess what just showed up on my doorstep. I'm almost afraid to install it.

[Serum]

Another Neu motor?

[bdebde]

Well, tell us how it works!

[zeropointbug]

It's his Quark.... :030: :027:

Oh, let the walls of Rome fall just so AAngel can have his Quark work this time. :005:

I'm telling you now, install those caps on it! I am warning you...

[suicideneil]

£10 says it blows up on the first run....

Nah, give it a check over for any loose wires/connections, plug it in and give it some welly around a carpark. If its going to blow up then so be it, but if it doesnt, then your luck has taken a turn for the better.

[zeropointbug]

You're on, 10 sterling

You guys are killing me. LOL

I got it, wired up 6 caps, and rigged everything up. I dogged it out a bit and didn't have a thermal and the heat on the case/sink indicated that the thermal pad is working for now. All I need now is my Neu back.

[zeropointbug]

Soo, you missed one part of the story. How did it perform? Which motor, your 9XL? how many cells?

It's Smoooth huh? :027:

zpb, I ran it with the 9XL on 4S lipo. Geared 14/46, it displayed plenty of power. It wasn't as torquey as with the MM, but I was running the MM on high start power and the Quark on the soft torque setting.

It is smooth and I couldn't get it to cog beyond a slight stutter every once in a while. On the other hand, I can't get it to start off at a creep either. Not like I can with the MM.

I'm going to hold any judgments until I get the Neu motor back.

[zeropointbug]

Really? I could get my truck with a 7XL geared 18/51 and stock TQ-3 to creep along at a snails pace! I could literally see the revs on the motor shaft.

What radio are you using?

You know what you should try with the Quark:

LiPo high mode and dynamic torque setting, this makes it seem crazy powerful and responsive.