Need response from a Castle tech for MMM question

[joeling]

Yep, curious me already tried that. Not good to have the switch opened.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by BrianG

Don't forget to remove the switch wires and bridge the solder pads where the switch goes. I did a little more testing with the switch in place and found that when it was off and ran it for a couple of minutes, I'd have odd performance. Something like cogging, but not. With the switch closed, everything runs perfectly. So, you might as well remove it and bridge the pads. Cleans up the wiring too.

Regards,
Joe Ling

[TruckBasher]

I hope this is applicable to V2......just in case mine dies ( I hope not too soon )...

[BrianG]

Made up a little diagram showing the UBEC hookup. It's a little different than most setups since the output of the UBEC must be fed back into the ESC, but that's about it. Oh, and I used the ESC input power solder points for the UBEC input.



Other mods done just for the record:

- Cut the case so the heatsink has better passive airflow

- To protect the circuits, I installed 1/8" thick foam pad strip along the motor and power wire solder points inside the case.

[TruckBasher]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Made up a little diagram showing the UBEC hookup. It's a little different than most setups since the output of the UBEC must be fed back into the ESC, but that's about it. Oh, and I used the ESC input power solder points for the UBEC input.



Other mods done just for the record:

- Cut the case so the heatsink has better passive airflow

- To protect the circuits, I installed 1/8" thick foam pad strip along the motor and power wire solder points inside the case.

Here is BrianG's wiring diagram....only need to short is the switch wires as it doesnt do anything....

Oh and that photo from Joe was V2....mine is V2 also only a bit smaller....

EDITED:
ohh and dont forget we do it at our own risk

Originally Posted by TruckBasher

Here is BrianG's wiring diagram....only need to short is the switch wires as it doesnt do anything....

Oh and that photo from Joe was V2....mine is V2 also only a bit smaller....

EDITED:
ohh and dont forget we do it at our own risk

OK thank you TruckBasher, you reply to my question, so the brown wire (or black, it's the same thing) on the Rx lead is simply remove, not use anymore??

So you give me the warrentie that i can do this on the V2 as well as the V1??

And another thing, should i mod it as soon as i'll recieve it or should i,am better to run it and wait it died???

And no worries for the warenties, if it died after the mod, i'll simply wait until CC solve their problems bofore to order another one, or maybe change the 3 caps on my MM for 35V rated caps and try it on 6s.............................

Thank you to BrianG, TruckBasher and JoeLing for your PM and your help, so if you have great results with your mod V2, i'll be more confident to run mine .

But i need to know if i'am better to mod it as soon as i'll recieve it or wait until it died. But if i wait, i risk to have a fire on the ESC, so the mod will be impossible.

And after your mod it, should i run a fan on it power by the Rx or you can run it without fan??

OK i'll did exactly what BrianG did on his drawing, solder the red/black input BEC directly to the main connector on the ESC.

[BrianG]

The lighting would be totally off, not to mention the little bin of fish-eye distortion there is would be off as well.

[Pdelcast]

Just one thing from me, and then I'll shut up --

Make sure you don't leave any solder shorts -- good idea to use some wick and clean up the excess solder after removing the parts.

[joeling]

Also can use a multimeter to check adjacent pads to ensure there is no short. Of course got to realise that a couple of pads for the 2 smaller components are common.

If the eyes are failing, use a magnifying glass. Works wonders.

Originally Posted by Pdelcast

Just one thing from me, and then I'll shut up --

Make sure you don't leave any solder shorts -- good idea to use some wick and clean up the excess solder after removing the parts.

Regards,
Joe Ling

[Arct1k]

[BrianG]

lol, no need to shut up. Without your assistance, I would have just removed the coil and possible done some damage.

After removing the parts, I cleaned the flux film off and made sure no traces were touching. Well there are a couple on the FETs that touch anyway, but I mean the others.

[BrianG]

Keeps people on their toes.

I might do it sometime this evening if I get bored. Doesn't take long, just gotta flip the image, save, upload to server - that's a whole 3 minutes out of my life!

[Arct1k]

Have one minute back... ;) Ahhh that feels better - ;)

[joeling]

Ok I thought I got lucky after reviving my V1. Now my brand new V2 seems to be DOA. BEC output voltage less than 1V upon powering up. This is a long weekend in Malaysia & I really want to run both my buggy (V1) & new truggy (V2). Looks like I'm only going to achieve 1 out of 2. However, I am now bordering on adventurous & I'm thinking of pulling a surgery on the V2. V2 differs from V1 in that the DC/DC convertor is now a 10pin device. At least to my feeble understanding of electronics that's what it is. So, this is what I intend to do :



I want to remove the parts marked with X's to achieve the same result as that of the V1's to remove the internal BEC & power the esc through and ecternal power source.

Now the 6million dollar question - will this work ? Are those the right parts to remove?

I understand the warranty will be void if I did it. How much do I have to pay if I found out the hard way that this idea does not work ?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Joe Ling