Project OverKill (hehe)

[killajb]

With all due respect.. I've got quite a few 1/18 scale rc's now (8 of them) all of which are running on 3s or 4s. Attempts at "overkill" have often lead me to overheat instead. On 4s, Neu and Permax motors run cooler than any of my other motors and CC Mamba Micro Pro handles 4s just fine. Speeds at 4s running 4200kv motors takes a steady trigger finger and lots of wide open space. On 3s, Hyperion Y-22 motors(long can) are probably the best overall performance/cost option as they give you enough torque to gear up for speed and get relatively warm but not hot. I'm running a Quark Pro-Car and Dynamite Tazer speed controls without problems at all on 3s. If you can buy a MM for cheap, I'd keep it and use it for a larger application as it is simply not needed here. The Trinity truck isn't the heaviest 1/18 car out there, but it does need any of the above-mentioned set-ups to stay happy. Hyperion short-can motors(5000kv and up), Aon 6000kv, Wraith 7000kv motors all just made heat when I tried to push them in my Trinity truck.

As for batteries, I buy from United Hobbies. Cheap and available in different sizes and discharge rates to suit most applications.

It's nice to experiment with what-ifs, but at the end of it all, I think everyone wants a car they can simply charge up, drop on the ground and enjoy time and time again. Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by killajb

With all due respect.. I've got quite a few 1/18 scale rc's now (8 of them) all of which are running on 3s or 4s. Attempts at "overkill" have often lead me to overheat instead. On 4s, Neu and Permax motors run cooler than any of my other motors and CC Mamba Micro Pro handles 4s just fine. Speeds at 4s running 4200kv motors takes a steady trigger finger and lots of wide open space. On 3s, Hyperion Y-22 motors(long can) are probably the best overall performance/cost option as they give you enough torque to gear up for speed and get relatively warm but not hot. I'm running a Quark Pro-Car and Dynamite Tazer speed controls without problems at all on 3s. If you can buy a MM for cheap, I'd keep it and use it for a larger application as it is simply not needed here. The Trinity truck isn't the heaviest 1/18 car out there, but it does need any of the above-mentioned set-ups to stay happy. Hyperion short-can motors(5000kv and up), Aon 6000kv, Wraith 7000kv motors all just made heat when I tried to push them in my Trinity truck.

As for batteries, I buy from United Hobbies. Cheap and available in different sizes and discharge rates to suit most applications.

It's nice to experiment with what-ifs, but at the end of it all, I think everyone wants a car they can simply charge up, drop on the ground and enjoy time and time again. Hope this helps.

did you ever try the Hyperion Y-22 long can in a RC18, I never thought of trying that, didnt know if it would fit or was that in the 1/18th scale MT, I tried the Wraith motor and thought it was the worst of any motor I have tried

my latest thought is that I will upgrade my Rc18, here is a list

ESC Mamba Micro Pro
Battery FP 25 evo 4s 1500
Hyperion y-22 4400 long can or Neu 1105/2y

I am thinking about the diffs they are the weak point in the RC18s

Originally Posted by azjc

my latest thought is that I will upgrade my Rc18, here is a list

ESC Mamba Micro Pro
Battery FP 25 evo 4s 1500
Hyperion y-22 4400 long can or Neu 1105/2y

I am thinking about the diffs they are the weak point in the RC18s

for the diffs just use mip super diffs, delrin gears, 3 shims on the diff, and one shim on the gear coming off the shaft (i used a washer that goes behind the wheel pin) when u drive it slow its fells really tight but once you get up to speed it opens up and is pefect. i have not strpied a diff yet.

here is my setup

mm esc
8000 kv mamba motor
2 x 2cell 900mah 12c for a total of 1800mah 24c

Originally Posted by drkros3

for the diffs just use mip super diffs, delrin gears, 3 shims on the diff, and one shim on the gear coming off the shaft (i used a washer that goes behind the wheel pin) when u drive it slow its fells really tight but once you get up to speed it opens up and is pefect. i have not strpied a diff yet.

here is my setup

mm esc
8000 kv mamba motor
2 x 2cell 900mah 12c for a total of 1800mah 24c

That's still only a 12c battery. The C rating doesn't change if you parallel the batteries or series them. So you actually have a 12c 1800mah pack, not a 24c. Even at 12c, the 1800mah pack still pumps out about 21 amps continuous, so not like it's lacking.

[/end nitpick]

Originally Posted by drkros3

for the diffs just use mip super diffs, delrin gears, 3 shims on the diff, and one shim on the gear coming off the shaft (i used a washer that goes behind the wheel pin) when u drive it slow its fells really tight but once you get up to speed it opens up and is pefect. i have not strpied a diff yet.

here is my setup

mm esc
8000 kv mamba motor
2 x 2cell 900mah 12c for a total of 1800mah 24c

I have the MIP super diffs but only the stock plastic gears...do you have a link for the delrin gears?

you can only get the delrin gears with the whole diff. i had gotten the diff and then sold the out drives on it.

you can find it at thetoyz.com


and thanks for letting me know that its still a 12c. me and my boss could not figure it out if it doubled the c rating. but it does put out a lot more power then my friends 2cell 1330mah 13c battery.

[killajb]

FYI Hyperion long can Y-22 series motors will fit in the RC18.

[Skelbow]

In my Mini Quake I run :

Thunder Power 3S 1320 MaH Battery
Mamba 25 ESC
RCer Warp4 2 Turn BL Motor (6 pole - 3880 kv)

All I can say is WOW. It is stupidly fast, I can rarely get it up to full speed, it usually flips before it reaches it. But great for bashing around, and I have yet to break ANY driveline parts with probably 35+ runs on it.

[Metallover]

I have a Neu 1107/1.5D 8500kv motor in my vendetta and on 2s it's a beast. I'm trying to get a medusa motor to run on 4s. My Quark 33 thermalled all the time and my suppo (super simple) 40a got burning hot with the Neu. I got a 1/10th sidewinder and that still gets fairly warm on the heatsink. I must be pulling a whole lot of amps. I'm getting a mamba max now, and I'll be able to use it in my revo too. I have an Apogee 1500mah and a Fligtpower 1600mah 2s pack. I haven't done enough testing to compare the packs.

If you are going for overkill, get a Neu 1110/2.5D and run it on 4s.

Here is a vid with my vendetta with the apogee. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S32YX7e01cE

[lutach]

Originally Posted by Metallover

I have a Neu 1107/1.5D 8500kv motor in my vendetta and on 2s it's a beast. I'm trying to get a medusa motor to run on 4s. My Quark 33 thermalled all the time and my suppo (super simple) 40a got burning hot with the Neu. I got a 1/10th sidewinder and that still gets fairly warm on the heatsink. I must be pulling a whole lot of amps. I'm getting a mamba max now, and I'll be able to use it in my revo too. I have an Apogee 1500mah and a Fligtpower 1600mah 2s pack. I haven't done enough testing to compare the packs.

If you are going for overkill, get a Neu 1110/2.5D and run it on 4s.

Here is a vid with my vendetta with the apogee. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S32YX7e01cE

You should've seen my Recoil with the Mega ACn16/15/1 (9200Kv), it was out of this world. I have the Neu 1107/1.5D, but I made a mistake on my ESC and it burned one phase.

Originally Posted by Metallover

I have a Neu 1107/1.5D 8500kv motor in my vendetta and on 2s it's a beast. I'm trying to get a medusa motor to run on 4s. My Quark 33 thermalled all the time and my suppo (super simple) 40a got burning hot with the Neu. I got a 1/10th sidewinder and that still gets fairly warm on the heatsink. I must be pulling a whole lot of amps. I'm getting a mamba max now, and I'll be able to use it in my revo too. I have an Apogee 1500mah and a Fligtpower 1600mah 2s pack. I haven't done enough testing to compare the packs.

If you are going for overkill, get a Neu 1110/2.5D and run it on 4s.

Here is a vid with my vendetta with the apogee. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S32YX7e01cE

a 8500kv motor that pulls a lot of amps...now theres a surprise...

[killajb]

I'm with azjc on this one.. I started out running a C4 9000kv motor that just seemed like small portable heater. Lutac, I'm sure your Mega ACn16/15/1 made a fair amount of heat no matter how efficient is. How long were you able to run it before it got too hot? I just bought a Neu 1115 1D (5700kv) that I'm going to try to stuff in another 1/16 project with a custom chasis. The thought is to run it on 3s and gear fairly high due to the expected torque output of such a long can motor. I will post some feedback here.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by killajb

I'm with azjc on this one.. I started out running a C4 9000kv motor that just seemed like small portable heater. Lutac, I'm sure your Mega ACn16/15/1 made a fair amount of heat no matter how efficient is. How long were you able to run it before it got too hot? I just bought a Neu 1115 1D (5700kv) that I'm going to try to stuff in another 1/16 project with a custom chasis. The thought is to run it on 3s and gear fairly high due to the expected torque output of such a long can motor. I will post some feedback here.

The Mega didn't get hot at all and most of the time I ran on the track. I was using a 16T pinion with the 56T spur. Too fast for the little track at Xtreme RC Addicts. I now have a 6 pole low Kv motor which is the only motor that the Kontronik Beat 70 Car actually works and I have a nice 22T pinion to get some speed out of the Recoil and one guy at the track could not believe how smooth my Recoil is. That guy btw runs the C4 9000Kv+ motor in his Recoil and it heats up pretty good. I have to see if Artur can fix my 60A controller which was the only one actually turning the Mega ACn16/15/1. Not even the Beat 70 can make it turn. I made a mistake on the timing of the 60A controller and it burned a couple of FETs.

[killajb]

I'm running a 25T pinion from a MLST in my "Recoil". I use quotes because it's actually a Carisma Nissan Skyline R32 which is essentially the exact same car minus the body and wheels, which I favor over the Sportwerks offering. I currently have a Hyperion Y-22 6000kv short can motor in there. It is very quick and top speed is pretty good as well. If I were to go to a track, I'd probably use this setup as it is. It does get a little hot after a few minutes, but I think adding a fan over the motor and ESC should tame things long enough to enjoy for a real race.