Inside the Quark 125, pics. - Page 3 - RC-Monster Forums

BrianG · 09.24.2006, 03:29 AM

Sounds like your work on the Quark paid off! If mine starts thermaling, I'll take it apart and do something like what you did since I'm sure the heatpads will have come unstuck as well.

09.25.2006, 11:51 PM

I ran the buggy again sunday late in the day. Ran it as hard as I could for 25 minutes straight. Temps were great. At the end of the run the heatsink was 132* and the board where the motors wire come out were actually 5 degrees cooler than the heatsink. I've never seen that before. I'm really happy with it so far.

Here is a picture of the buggy. The Quark is mounted upside down and also I threw in a picture of the open ends of the Neu motor, which I later taped up.

smhertzog · 09.26.2006, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cartwheels

I ran the buggy again sunday late in the day. Ran it as hard as I could for 25 minutes straight. Temps were great. At the end of the run the heatsink was 132* and the board where the motors wire come out were actually 5 degrees cooler than the heatsink. I've never seen that before. I'm really happy with it so far.

Here is a picture of the buggy. The Quark is mounted upside down and also I threw in a picture of the open ends of the Neu motor, which I later taped up.

Sounds like you may have got something there, I'm just wondering how much of the heat drop can be due to the neu motor. That and the ambient outside temperature make a big difference. I just noticed mine is loose and am going to do some changes. The shrink wrap on my caps looks like it got hot and came off, they read 35v 330uf . Im also wondering if the fact that only one bank of the fets is connected to a heatsink that sees airflow has anything to do with the overheating.

scyan · 09.26.2006, 08:48 PM

Hey, thats a hyper 7 i see there ? What size pinion/ spur are you running on that ? Do you have the spyder or normal center diff ? Plastic or metal spur ?

and last one, any fan on those heatsinks ?

Thanks !

Scy

11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smhertzog

Sounds like you may have got something there, I'm just wondering how much of the heat drop can be due to the neu motor. That and the ambient outside temperature make a big difference. I just noticed mine is loose and am going to do some changes. The shrink wrap on my caps looks like it got hot and came off, they read 35v 330uf . Im also wondering if the fact that only one bank of the fets is connected to a heatsink that sees airflow has anything to do with the overheating.

There is an aluminum heatsink on the inside row of fets but, your right the outside bank is the only one that sees airflow. No doubt the motor does help but I can tell that now that the fets are better attached to the heatsink the internals cool much quicker.

When you say that you are going to make some changes are you going to do something like what I did or something else?

Quote:

scyan
Hey, thats a hyper 7 i see there ? What size pinion/ spur are you running on that ? Do you have the spyder or normal center diff ? Plastic or metal spur ?

and last one, any fan on those heatsinks ?

Thanks !

Scy

I'm using a 12/51 pinion/spur on the normal diff. Mike (RC Monster) made an adapter that fits the diff to the spur for me. The spur is plastic and holds up quite well. I don't have a fan on there but, I have the front windshield cut out completely which provides some air through the heatsink. I would put a fan on there too but I can't keep the fans from breaking so, unless I have to have one I will go without for awhile. I was really happy with the way it was running the other day.

Serum · 09.27.2006, 01:49 AM

@scy;

you can also hoop up the kyosho spurt to allmost any centerdiff, they are plastic, and don't require the adaptor. they come in 44 and 46t.

scyan · 09.27.2006, 07:57 AM

I would most likely need a whole new diff since I have a spyder diff and the spur gear doesnt fit at all.

:(

09.27.2006, 09:10 AM

I bet Mike could make an adapter to fit your diff as well or maybe you could make your own. Here is a thread that has pictures of the adapter http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1897 . I believe it would be similar to mine just more holes for mounting on the diff. I did mine before too many people knew about the Kyosho option for the spur.

Serum · 09.27.2006, 03:03 PM

What do you mean with spider diff? you have got the (what UE calls) 8 spider?

smhertzog · 09.28.2006, 04:32 PM

Sorry here are the pics

GriffinRU · 01:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smhertzog

Sorry here are the pics

Looks like your caps are dead already...

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

Lol, it is pretty funny.

I don't know if I'd leave them on there when running. That's a lot of weight to be bouncing on those sensitive FETs! BTW: why do you have a sink on the caps?? Caps should never get warm unless you are constantly charging and shorting them out, and that is simply from the current flow. The majority of the heat is most likely due to the FETs heating up, which heats the traces, which then travels to surrounding components (caps). Besides, caps, being round, don't have much surface area touching the sinks.

Like Serum said; it's not a bad job. If those don't keep it cool, the it's time to give up! :)

Caps will get warm, because they eating high-voltage spikes from FET's transitions left and right. And they have ESR value which will tell you how much power loss (heat) will be dissipated by cap. And their ESR goes up with temp...

zeropointbug · 04.08.2007, 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffinRU

Looks like your caps are dead already...

Caps will get warm, because they eating high-voltage spikes from FET's transitions left and right. And they have ESR value which will tell you how much power loss (heat) will be dissipated by cap. And their ESR goes up with temp...

ESR, yes, the lower the better, it's kinda like inductance in an AC circuit, along with physical resistance. That's why audio grade caps have ultra low ESR, the very high end systems anyways...

That Quark looks VERY exposed! Too much for my blood!

I am going to try and make my heatsink mod get the top FET's attached to the bottom of the case for additional cooling.

smhertzog · 04:35 PM

Quote: When you say that you are going to make some changes are you going to do something like what I did or something else?

I just started today and am waiting for some supplies to get here but this is roughly the heatsink setup I am planning on using. With as dirty as the inside of my controller was when I took it apart was, I think Im going to shoot for keeping the boards from shorting on anything as apposed to sealing the whole thing up with the original case. Ill use the original face plate with the button and window to cover the board but not the alluminum case.

Pics are on next page had some down loading problemes and had to start a new post

neweuser · 09.28.2006, 04:39 PM

Damn, those heatsinks are way LONG

jhautz · 04:59 PM

That could be a perfect cooling set up. It always bugged me that I couldnt get any additional heatsinking on the fets in between the boards. Looks like that angle aluminum should be perfect for pulling the heat out of there. Nice job. I would like to try that, but Im not brave enough to tear mine open yet.:p

After you put the front plate back on, get a some battery shrink wrap and put it arond the boards the long way so the face plate shows on one end and the heatsinks stick out the other. That would help you keep the dirt out and give a more finished look.

Nice Job! Let us know how that runs. I bet you cant even warm it up with that much heat sinking.:018: