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BrianG
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09.27.2006, 10:07 AM

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Originally Posted by monel_funkawitz
Everytime I start, I wind up with a emaxx that is going to cost me $4,000 cause I have the gold plated titanium unobtanium Lithuanian battery git'er-rid'er-of'ers, high speed muffler bearings, conversion from Titans to a Ford Pinto starter motor, etc. and I just get carried away.
LOL! I think you should be safe to get rid of the muffler bearings, but you DO need blinker fluid. :)

Don't know about the driveshafts but maybe the stock Revo sliders will fit. I know they are strong enough - it's just a matter of fit I think.

You are on the right track about the tranny. That steel idler gear is a must as well as the single speed hub part that locks 2nd gear (or you could glue 2nd gear to the dog gear). Whether or not you get the half-case adaptor is your choice, If you do, you eliminate first gear altogether. If you want the full plastic case (which I did for more mounting holes) keep first gear as a spacer but cut the gear part off so all you're left with is a hub. Some people remove the unneeded first gear on the input shaft for less weight. That's up to you.

Mike sells a nice UBEC at the RCM store. It has plenty of power, is 6v (not 5v), is stable, and efficient. There are others on ebay and such maybe cheaper that I've heard work well.

Motor. Well, that can be a little tricky for a first timer. The Mamba Max motors are too small. If budget is a concern, pick up a Wanderer XL size or similar Feigao. If you want quality, and price is not so much an option, the Neu or LMT motors are really nice. For 12 cells, I'd get a Wanderer 7XL or 8XL. The 7XL will give you more top-end speed, but will reduce runtime since there are fewer turns. The 8XL will still go nicely and also allow room to go to 14 cells later on.

ESC. The Mamba Max is a nice little controller and highly programmable. It can run 12 cells no problem, although I don't know if I'd run 14 cells. If you think you might increase your cells later on, then maybe the 9920 or Quark 125B might be better. On those motors, you want a controller that can handle no less than 100A (99A is ok).

Gearing. I used a 51T spur and 14T pinion, but that was Mod1 pitch on an 8XL motor (14 cells) and it ran good. However, the strobe slipper I used is VERY hard to get now, so you might end up using a different pitch gears. 51T/14T is a 3.64:1 ratio. I would start right around that ratio, but using whatever gear type you pick.

Clutch. Like I said, the strobe slipper is what was generally used, but are almost impossible to get. I've heard rumors that the Revo slipper set-up can be used instead, but I don't know what options that gives you for gearing.

Last edited by BrianG; 09.27.2006 at 10:10 AM.
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Serum
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09.27.2006, 10:28 AM

Stock shafts in the front and UE cvd's in the rear should be fine.

Once you get your first setup and decent batteries, i can guarantee you are a believer.
   
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Procharged5.0
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09.27.2006, 10:59 AM

Two choices for the drive shafts. the most cost effective being the upgrade to the Traxxas 3.3 T-Maxx control arms, steering knuckles & bearings, and the drive shafts.

The second alternative being Unlimited Engineering Supermaxx 6mm or 8mm Steel CVD's. The new MIP parts are ok too but the U.E. is still preferred.


Supermaxx-Racer-X, VBS, FLM chassis & Transcase, HSR Motorsports Slipper, Cage, MMM ESC, NEU1515. REVO 3.3, BL X1-CRT, CRT, BL-CRT.5, Procharged '92 Mustang visit www.chitownrc.com and www.rcbros.com
   
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