Looks great Freeze! If I can find enough extra stainless button head screws at that size I'll stick them in the mail your way. That way you can have the extra bling of oxide, stainless, oxide. You should only need four right?
Lol, thanks for offer but i'll pass, I won't care much for that look on the motor.
i really like the look of the motor with the button-head screws. i will seal up my flux motor the same way after i get some more screws from the local hobby store.
They say a good mechanic only needs 2 tools - WD40 & Duct tape. If it moves, and its not supposed to, duct tape. If it doesn't move, and its supposed to, WD40.
I plan on sealing my motor the sme way, but there is some stock on dirt in the holes, and I don't think blowing them intot the motor witha compressor is such a good I dea. How should i clean it?
R.I.P. Muggy, Rustler, VXL Slash
EFlite Blade MSR Heli (Slightly modded)
1/16 BL E-revo
8-t 2.0, OS Vspec with Speed conrod
Carbon Fiber Revo 3.3 Coversion Madness!
I learned my first lesson quickly with my first Flux: "Stock A arms do not last long" With that, after suffering major front end damage on my original A arm's, I immedietely switched to RPM arms. However, like everything else in life, there was a tradeoff. RPM's fit and finish with their products tends to be "hit and miss". That being said, I had to do some major dremling in order for the RPM arms to swing freely on my first Flux. And the second time around unfortunately, was going to be no exception
Not much to say this time around except I spent SEVERAL hours dremeling out my new, blue RPM arms in order for them to swing properly without binding. What a farking pain......
The upper arms required the most work. I had to bore out the hinge pins holes majorly to get them to swing freely. Thanks alot for the quality control RPM...
I was putting my flux back together last night, and one thing that has always bugged me about it was the amount of dirt that was able to get up inside the diff through that hole in the bottom. So I'm experimenting by putting a layer of heavy duty grease around the opening - both on the diff casing and the skip plate. We'll see if it keeps the dirt out of the diff itself. I would have used some silicone, but I didn't have a tube handy.
ps. You should buy the sway bar kit. I know you dont want to use those, but the caps for the hinge pins are worth the cost of the kit IMHO.
Losi 8T 1.0, Savage Flux - XL style, LST XXL, Muggy, 3.3 E-Revo Conversion and sitting outside 425hp, 831 Tq Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel. It SMOKES
I was putting my flux back together last night, and one thing that has always bugged me about it was the amount of dirt that was able to get up inside the diff through that hole in the bottom. So I'm experimenting by putting a layer of heavy duty grease around the opening - both on the diff casing and the skip plate. We'll see if it keeps the dirt out of the diff itself. I would have used some silicone, but I didn't have a tube handy.
I fixed that on mine with some thin gasket paper i picked up from the local auto parts store. I used the quare ridge in the skid plate as a template and just cut it out with a razor blade, fits perfectly and keeps all the dirt out of the diff. Plus you can still take the skid plates off, unlike using silicone where it might act like a bonding agent. You can also use thick paper if you want. I did this before i ever even ran my flux and its always been as clean as new inside and im still using the same piece of gasket material after probably 6 or 7 times of taking it appart
You should be able to find a small vent plug for it somewhere. You may have to drill and tap it out to size, but there are vents out there for just this purpose. They are usually used on industrial type bear boxes, and come in all sizes.
I fixed that on mine with some thin gasket paper i picked up from the local auto parts store. I used the quare ridge in the skid plate as a template and just cut it out with a razor blade, fits perfectly and keeps all the dirt out of the diff. Plus you can still take the skid plates off, unlike using silicone where it might act like a bonding agent. You can also use thick paper if you want. I did this before i ever even ran my flux and its always been as clean as new inside and im still using the same piece of gasket material after probably 6 or 7 times of taking it appart
That's a good idea. I kinda like the hole as an easy way to inspect the diffs, but too much fine dirt gets by