Fastlane parts;

[Serum]

I really like those fastlane parts, nice CNC work!

I had a problem with a shocktower for my savage, but they fixed it right away in the new batch..

I am working on BL maxx, and I had a few q's about some fastlane products;

Why hasn’t rc-monster got the 30 dollar costing aluminum diffcup including gears? For some reason in particular? Quality perhaps?

And their bulkless e-maxx conversion? How about these? I asked Jamie, from fastlane, if Savage diffs would fit in (they are much cheaper then the other buggy like diffs, and very good (bulletproof)) Jamie said he had considered it, and their could be plans for the futere going to make his bulkless conversion to fit these savage diffs. I don’t like the UE, it’s not fair priced, and not as nice cnc’d as the fastlanes

Would I need a savage/buggy like differential kit for my BL maxx, when running on 16 cells with a 7XL? Would it be more durable then the fastlane aluminum cups with the stock gears? It would weight more, for sure.. I’m not an abuser, I am a user..

[RC-Monster Mike]

I just picked up FastLane as a vendor a few days ago, and I haven't gotten the opportunity to try all their products yet. I try to try everything I carry so I can speak intelligently about the parts and help my customers when they need it. The diff cups are a nice price, but I still have the maximizer diff cups in stock, which I have had very good experience with, even though they are a bit more costly (they are 7075 and the fit is excellent). I did have a fitting issue in the past with a Fastlane cup, but Jamie replaced the cup without a hassle.Personally, I don't think the Savage diffs are much stronger, if any stronger, than a properly shimmed, aluminum cupped and cased maxx diff. I have seen quite a few blown savage diffs., but I have been running brushless power through my Maximizer diffs for a couple years without failure (I am also a user, not an abuser). As for the bulkless, I may stock the hybrids at some point, and can certainly get them upon request(along with any other FastLane part). The cost starts adding up fast when you try to get things in stock, so I will build as the budget allows. The UE stuff is very nice, but also VERY expensive, for sure.
The stock gears in an aluminum cup (need 3mm screws) and aluminum cases, when shimmed properly, are very strong. If you don't make a habit of landing on power, they will last a long time even under the kind of power you are speaking of. If you jump high and land on power, something will surely give! The 1/8 diffs are very nice and pretty much bulletproof, but are costly. If you aren't an abuser, you won't have any trouble with the aluminum cases and cups with stock gears.

[Serum]

The only strong point on the 7075 over the 6061's would be, that the part where the output shaft is turning in the aluminum would wear sooner. There isn't a to big sideload on it though. Perhaps the pin of the bevelgears eat their way easier in the cups but i have got a way to prevent that. With my savage i simple placed a U shaped piece of springsteel (.7mmX3mm with a height of approx. 20 mm in U shape)in the diffcup in the place where the pin is, took a .7 mm of both sides of the pin. Goodtogo!

what diameter have those pins have bytheway? is that 4mm?

I think i am in the race for the bulkless fastlanes...

Can you fill the cups with silicone oil?

[RC-Monster Mike]

The cups can be filled with oil, but the oil will leak out (no o-rings). I am not sure on the size of the pins, but I would guess 3mm, not 4. I would assume the bulkless fastlanes that allow 1/8 diffs would hold the whole diff (and therefore allow oil tuning). I am not sure on this, though. I will ask about it tomorrow when I talk to Jamie.

[Serum]

1/8 diffs can be tuned with oil.

[RC-Monster Mike]

I know that! I am not sure how they assemble into the bulks is what I meant. If the whole diff fits the bulk, then oil tuning is an option.

[Serum]

With the thickness needed for those MT sized tires, the oild won't drip out of the little hole.. To thick..

(my experience)

How do you grease te diffs? Is a small amount of 300K silicone not good for this unsealed lubbrication?

[RC-Monster Mike]

Even the thick oil will leak out. Slowly, but it will leak out a little. Some racers use the heavy oil without the o-ring seals. They just build before the race and it works. I am a low maintenance kind of guy, myself, though(too lazy or too busy to spend time building diffs all the time - I like the Ron Popeil strategy - Set it and forget it!). I just use a small amount of lithium grease on the ring and pinion gears (I think this is what you mean). A heavy oil would work fine as well.

[Serum]

Owh, no i meant the thickness of the oil inside the diff (where the bevelgears are)


Do you also sell 1/8th scale diffs? (i like the spiral cut gears of the HB lighting pro) (with the hardened gears inside)

What would they cost?

(incl. cups, if these cups fit the E-maxx cvd's) What do you suggest for using as center cvd's?

[RC-Monster Mike]

I don't sell the 1/8 diffs currently, but perhaps in the near future. For center cvds (actually, we use center dogbones), the UE shafts for the e-maxx lightning chassis work on the ext. G-maxx chassis. I am also working with FastLane to package a set for this purpose (will likely be cheaper than UE).

[Serum]

Well, i just want to be save;

Like I said I am not an abuser, but a user, not a basher, more of a speedrun-type.. (includes offroad speedruns) i'm thinking of a lightweight maxx(4 shocks/G-maxx CF chassis and a 7XL with a 9918 on 16-18 cells. (allready got the UE racerX a-arms)

I want to keep it light, but maintanance poor.. (those 1/8 diffs weight much more then the stock with a aluminum diffcup i guess?) My savage weights 6.2 KG, with a light tire/rim combo So it would be very nice to keep it under the 4 kg. I heard those GA bulks where rather heavy.. but very good. I want to use a flex free diffcase, to prevent the 13 tooth gear jumping over the ringgear.

And i like to see some aluminum. Mixture between a lightweight and a racer.

Did anyone here ruined a stock diff with the aluminum diffcup? If so, what went wrong? If i look at the mxx cups, i am sure the 37 and the 13 tooth gear will hold good, when shimmed propperly in a non-flexing diffcase, but those inner gears? are these strong?

[RC-Monster Mike]

The 1/8 diffs are not much heavier at all vs. the alunimum cased and cupped diff. That is a heavy Savage! The GA 7075 bulks are as you described (heavy, but strong!). When using the diff cups and aluminum cases, I have only seen (or heard of) the spiders stripping a couple times (once by myself). In both cases, the diffs were in pretty worn out condition and had quite a bit of slop (needed shims badly - the ones I stripped had close to a year of use before they let go). The stock maxx spiders are very strong when they are shimmed properly. Inside an aluminum case, I haven't heard of stripped ring/pinion gears at all (not saying it hasn't happened, but I haven't witnessed it).
I find it a little ironic (funny) that you mentioned lightweight and 16 cells in a description of the same vehicle. :)
Your BL savage looks pretty sweet in the pictures you sent. Do you mind if I post them in the gallery? (or could you post them in the gallery?).

[Serum]

Go ahead, you can post the pics. No problem! I can host them if you want to?

Yeah, well, lightweight.. Lighter weight i guess. Would be nice to be 1, 1,5 kg lighter then the savage

I am just looking for a stunning acceleration and a high topspeed.. In my experience, you need a rather high number of cells to get an explosive acceleration and a high topspeed. I am very curious what this 7XL will do, in comparison with the Plettenbergs Bigmaxximum.

Are those RDlogics cvd's any good? (running offtopic to the Fastlane subject now) can you also get MIP shafts?

are those GA's very heavy?

[RC-Monster Mike]

I only recently picked up the RD-Logics line as well. I have quite a few customers using them and haven't heard of any problems yet. They appear to be very well built (looking at them) and I am pretty convinced that they are as solid as any other cvds, especially for the price! I can get the MIP stuff, but it is a bit of a hassle (must go through a friend).
The GA bulks are an ounce or so heavier (each) than many other aluminum bulks. FastLane is tough to beat on value for the price, and they will replace any of their parts for $8 if something fails. This type of backing of their products is one of the reasons I picked them up as a supplier. They have quality stuff and are willing to stand behind this quality!

12 cells (good ones) are capable of providing explosive acceleration and speed, but the more cells you run, the faster and more explosive the speed and acceleration can become!
The Pletty motors are powerhouses for sure (4 pole design means a lot of torque!), but they are not cheap (I am set up as a dealer for the plettys, but have yet to place an order due to the price!). The 7xl on 16-18 cells is a s***load of power and requires a very tough drivetrain to handle it. How it compares to the bigmaximum, I don't know, but I would imagine it is at least on par in the power department (for 1/3 the price, no less).

[ryanvm777]

"G-maxx CF chassis and a 7XL with a 9918 on 18 cells", It's ok I quess; well when I pull the trigger it goes, no big deal :D :D :D LOL