It's all so HOT!!!

Hello! I'm new to the sight and real happy to be here...

I have an ERevo that I have been trying to race but I have been pretty unsuccessfull lately due to my motor overheating. I was hoping that someone could tell me if there is a simple reason in my set up that is causing the problem. It's kind of odd because I didn't have any trouble when I first got this revo. I even got second in a club race last Spring. The last couple of times I tried to race, however, the system went into thermal shut down (I think) about 14 minutes into the mains when the motor hit 180 degrees.

So anyway the set up is as follows:

Basically stock Erevo
HVMax 6.5 combo (Motor and ESC)
68 T spur
16T Pinion (down from the 19)
Running on the Responce pin tires with the 3.8 dish wheels

I'm runnin 2 -10,000 mah 10C 2S2P lipos from TrueRC

I have been through the drive train to check for binding. I have the novak heat sink on the motor but I have never used any thermal grease and have some on order. I also have a 14T and 12T pinion comin to see what they will do for me. I read on another thread that 16T is the biggest pinion you can run with the 68 spur so I ordered the smaller pinions. So anyway I would appreciate all the advice I can get.

I really like racing the revo and making the switch from nitro to electric was really enjoyable till I started having these problems. I have had plenty of people tell me that I should trash the Novak system and get the MMM but I only know one guy personally that runs mamba equipment and he's had his share of problems as well. Plus I really don't have the money to throw at a new brushless set up right now.

Oh yeah... Sorry for the long post!

[bcltoys]

Novak specs are no lower then 25c.

[Bondonutz]

Originally Posted by bcltoys

Novak specs are no lower then 25c.

+1

Dans batterys are decent but 10C might not be enough and gearing down a couple teeth is definitely worth trying. Here, use this Speed Calculator and gear for high 30's -40 max for the track and you should be OK.

http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/index.html

Wow! I appreciate the fast replys guys!

You could also try a new 14mm rotor. Supposed to give more torque, and run cooler.

mmmmm... now that advise was a lot easier to take! lol

[RC-Monster Mike]

The problem isn't the batterries. 10k mah 10c packs are more than enough. You can't look at the "25c" number by itself - the pack capacity is part of the equation. The packs are good for 100amps continuous(and TrueRC packs are rated conservatively), which is plenty for the Novak system.
Its summer, and he is using the largest suggested pinion gear and thermalling after 14 minutes - no big surprise, really. Gear it down and you will lower heat, increase runtime and likely avoid the thermal shutdown. The Novak systems like small pinions for best success.

[RC-Monster Mike]

If you have the older rotor, then the new one is also a marked improvement.

See thats what I'm talkin about! Gettin better all the time!

See thats what bites my buns! I won second place with this thing when I first got it in a 20 minute main! And I can bash with it all day long... somethin has changed since then. just gotta figure out what it is. And the rotor thing sounds like the best bet yet.

Thanks guys! Wow... talkin to the RCMonster himself! Thats like chattin with a celebrity. And I just got approved to post like 4 hours ago!

[neweuser]

A new rotor, lower your pinion, and you will have more success. Have you checked for slippage on your clutch?

Or, hopefully later you can move up to a MMM and a Neu ;) Give Mike some business is always success!!

[RBMike]

Just a heads up. If you get the new rotor I beleive Novak recomends gearing up a couple of teeth from where you had it with the old rotor. You may not need to regear at all with the new rotor.

Thanks I was wondering about that. Seein as how I'd be switching to a 5mm output shaft from a 3mm. I should get the smaller pinios tomarrow and if the planets allign close enough this weekend I just maybe, might, possibly get out to the track on saturday to test em out. If nothin much changes I'll get the rotor ordered.

Just a quick update for ya'all...

Thanks again for everyones advice! Finished a 15 minute main on saturday and took home second place. Even sweeter for the fact that I was racin a revo in the Sportsman Truggy class!

Still runnin pretty hot (160 after a twenty minute test run) but at least I was able to compete. All I've done so far is thye 12T pin and the thermal paste so I think I will go ahead and get the upgrade rotor and things will be even better.

UPDATE:

I just wanted to thank you guys again for the advice and let ya'all know how things went for me.

I installed the 14mm rotor and was able to gear right back up to a 16 pinion without issue. Temp seems to max out at about 150 no matter what pinion I use with the rotor. So far I have tried the 12, 14, and 16. I still have a 17 to try out but I don't think I really need to try and race with it. With the sixteen I was able to clear the triple at the track right along with the nitro's. Way better than what I was getting from the 12 pin!

Just a word of advice for anyone who upgrades an older novak with a new rotor. These thing are the most powerfull magnets (lb for lb) that I have ever messed with. It is real easy to lay it down while your working and get metal slivers or flakes or whatever happens to be in the vicinity stuck all over it! lol And when you put it in the can you need to have a death grip on both the can and the rotor because the magnetic force will slam the two together before you have time to react and stop it from happening. In my case I was lucky because the 14mm rotor is so big that it can really only go in almost perfectly straight. This is very important because there is circiutry at the bottom of the can that can be easily damaged if the back rotor shaft smacks into it. Novak try's to explain this to you in the instructions but they don't quite prepare you for how hard the rotor slams into the can if you lose your grip on it. Heck it's hard to keep them from smacking even if you do have a good grip on it! The instructions said to insert the plastic tube that the rotor came in into the can to help guide it into the can but the tube didin't fit in my motor. Still scratchin my head on that one?

Anyway, thanks again and hopefully this will help others out that find themselves in the same situation.