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My "RASH" review
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slimthelineman
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Thumbs up My "RASH" review - 01.18.2011, 08:23 PM

Had an old two wheel slash layin around and my 4 year old daughter has been telling me she wants to start racing for a while so for christmas I ordered up the STRC LCG conversion and the rustler upper and lower chassis and a battery strap(which i could have lived without by fabing one out of CF but oh well). The fit and finish was good enough for me, but the online instructions were not my favorite. Would have much rather had a piece of paper in front of me to look at but minor details. Went together pretty easily and looks more like a racing type RC than the slash ever did to me. Runnin the TRX 2.4 radio(which rocks for little kids and small hands) a airtronics 360z servo, and the centerpiece a mmpro and 4-pole 4600 kv motor of course! geared 27/84 on 2s and the thing flies! will have tone it down with the max throttle setting for her or just put a 13.5 in it. Overall the conversion really woke the truck up. It dives into corners without heasitation, holds a line as fast as you want without the rear stepping out, and jumps really flat. Bumps are not so great at the moment but i think an oil change in the rear will take care of that. Overall i would definately recomend this conversion for anyone looking to resurect thier slash for some racing action. Total cost was around $60 shipped and about an hour to install it. Oh yeah about the name, its a slash with a rustler chassis, RASH was my take and it kinda stuck. Have seen quite a few of these at my local tracks and will be expecting to see more.
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BrianG
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01.18.2011, 09:18 PM

I just got the same kit and am sorta happy with it. I'm not a fan of the 2wd Slash at all (mainly because of the crappy diff), but it wasn't selling so I had to do something to make it acceptable. If you are running the stock setup, it's a pretty easy change over (I agree with you about the crappy online instructions).

But since I have an FLM tranny, RPM shock tower, and using a battery that wouldn't fit, the kit needed a couple mods. First, an extra set of countersunk holes had to be drilled in the STRacing aluminum lower plate due to the way FLM made the tranny. Second, I had to make a new set of standoffs because the RPM tower is thicker, so it made the upper plate angled down (this is nitpicky since you could just crank it down and be fine). And three, since I'm still running 4s 5Ah cells on a 2200kv Medusa, I had to mod the tray a bit to add some length to fit the pack.

I'm still using a JBWelded diff, but it still does drive better on corners, especially since my battery pack has to sit on-edge, which raised the COG way too high with the stock chassis.

Last edited by BrianG; 01.18.2011 at 09:20 PM.
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slimthelineman
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01.18.2011, 09:38 PM

Yeah I noticed how the rear upper plate didn't like the rpm tower but I don't care. The battery tray is pretty damn tight, and the diff works better if you seal it up. Put 7k in mine since doing it and it's not leaking yet. Sounds as if your truck is a little more "max power" style than mine. Built this one for club racing so had to keep it legal. Will try to get a vid next time I go to the track.
   
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slimthelineman
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01.30.2011, 01:31 PM

Had a chance to race the rash agaian Friday night at controlled chaos raceway in Palmdale. Nothing more really to say about the 1406-4600 other than it rocks! Track was bumpy with medium traction but the truck was awesome. Sealing the diff and filling it with oil is probably the best upgrade performance wise for the slash based vehicles. Makes the truck much more consistant everywhere on the track. Got the shock setup pretty close and ditched the front swaybar for this track. Steering was awesome and forward bite was great too (due to the diff mod). The converted chassis handles great could carry through the sweeper at over half throttle and would square up nicely on power. Jumps alot flatter than the slash ever did but I've noticed it has quite a bit of rear weight bias. Not really an issue but had to lighten the front damping to get it to act right. All in all it's much more capable as a race truck. Had an easy time keeping up with the sc10's and kyosho's. With a little more fine tuning I think this will be a competitive 2wheel sc truck for me. I will say it again though seal the diff and fill it with oil, without this mod the truck just doesn't stand a chance on the track.
   
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E-Revonut
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01.30.2011, 01:41 PM

I race a guy in the summer that made his own rustler based slash last year. Handled much better than his slash ever did. I beleive he finished the season in the top 10 against some very skilled and sponsored drivers


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lincpimp
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01.30.2011, 04:55 PM

Have a link to the diff sealing instructions? I vaguely remember reading it a while ago...
   
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slimthelineman
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01.30.2011, 05:03 PM

Yeah I'll look but I hate to admit I think I saw it a while back in the traxxas forum. Gonna do another one soon maybe I can get off my ass and take some pictures this time and share the buttery smoothness with y'all. On a side note needed to rebuild the suspension after a thousand races or so and picked up the protrack kit since it was all in one bag and had a set of wheels. Will see how it works don't have any experience with it but I do like the extra adjustibility of it for starters.

Last edited by slimthelineman; 01.30.2011 at 07:52 PM.
   
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_paralyzed_
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01.31.2011, 06:28 AM

pretty curious myself to the diff sealing instructions. I've sold all my 272 magnum transmissioned vehicles but I maintain 3 rustlers for friends and I'd like to help them out with this mod.


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slimthelineman
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01.31.2011, 09:50 AM

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=116675
feel bad for posting a link to another forum but I don't have the time to do my own how to right now for everyone. These are the same steps I took to seal the diff and it works great. Only thing I did different was to use axle spacers instead of the Teflon shims so I could get the spacing for the diff exacly how I wanted it inside the tranny case. I run 5k inside mine and it's perfect. Would switch to 3k for tracks with medium traction.
   
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_paralyzed_
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01.31.2011, 10:16 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by slimthelineman View Post
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=116675
feel bad for posting a link to another forum but I don't have the time to do my own how to right now for everyone. These are the same steps I took to seal the diff and it works great. Only thing I did different was to use axle spacers instead of the Teflon shims so I could get the spacing for the diff exacly how I wanted it inside the tranny case. I run 5k inside mine and it's perfect. Would switch to 3k for tracks with medium traction.
Thanks for the link!


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BrianG
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01.31.2011, 11:01 AM

Actually, I saw that diff sealing mod a while back, but didn't like it all that much. When I have the time/cash, I'm just going to get one of these: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=flm20010
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slimthelineman
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01.31.2011, 11:02 AM

No problem! Try it out it works pretty well. Been racing with it for a while now and it's a night and day difference on the track. The beauty of the gear diff is that it never loosens up or needs a rebuild. Helps alot with consistancy out of the corners and in the rough stuff. Hopefully it works as well for everyone else as it has for me.
   
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01.31.2011, 11:04 AM

Looks like a good writeup, many thanks for the link.

Only other thing I would do is to put some of the team ae green slime on the o rings, will help them seal better.
   
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slimthelineman
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01.31.2011, 11:05 AM

Wow that thing is wicked mr g. Looks to be the end all be all solution to me but I like the lower rotating mass of the cheapo plastic unit. If I weren't racing with the rash I would definately spring for the mosnter diff.
   
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lincpimp
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01.31.2011, 11:06 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG View Post
Actually, I saw that diff sealing mod a while back, but didn't like it all that much. When I have the time/cash, I'm just going to get one of these: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=flm20010
I have one of the older flm units, wonder what they changed to seal it? I guess they just made a relief cut on the center section so the o rings would have a place to sit...

I will have to dig it up and take a look.
   
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