Yusa buggy? - Page 3 - RC-Monster Forums

stampedeproject · 10.26.2007, 01:01 PM

Guys, I am fianlly working on converting both the buggies I have over to brushless.

One will be a direct conversion that retains the braking servo and braking "feel" of the nitro units. The other will be a standard NTB conversion like you are doing.

The hole point in me doing this was to determine if dumping the brakes from these conversions really makes that much difference in braking performance. I did a Losi 8 Buggy conversion which was featured at iHobby with dual 3s1P A123 packs ~20V, Castle MM, and Neumotor 1515/1Y, RC-Monster Plate, and my own home brewed battery holder. The feedback form some pro drivers was that the brakes were excellent so I am anxious to see the difference side by side.

10.26.2007, 01:23 PM

My MM gives me more than enough braking power to lock the wheels on any surface I drive it on, but the adjustable brake balance of the stock set-up would be nice.

Mike_D · 10.26.2007, 01:59 PM

Stampede,

I saw that Losi 8ight at the I-hobby expo with the A123 guys and thought it was awesome. I wish i could have seen it run.

stampedeproject · 10.26.2007, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike_D

Stampede,

I saw that Losi 8ight at the I-hobby expo with the A123 guys and thought it was awesome. I wish i could have seen it run.

Thanks - That was my baby alone with the FLM Extended Stampede.

stampedeproject · 10.26.2007, 02:54 PM

These appear pretty close for manuals and parts.
http://www.ofna.com/pdf/95-violator.pdf

http://www.ofna.com/pdf/ultra-lx-comp.pdf

Anyone made any parts trips yet?

rcjmaxx · 10.28.2007, 04:54 PM

I too have purchased a Yusa product,but not the buggy but the 1/8 onroad/rally car chassis.I was nervous at first but feel better knowing that its not a complete blind purchase.I'm looking forward to that package arriving in the mail.Stampedeproject I've gone to your site and all I can say is...thanks for the shot in the arm.

Mike_D · 10.28.2007, 06:14 PM

So far i have not broken any parts but i still think the Yusa resembles the Kyosho Infernos more.

rcjmaxx, welcome to the Yusa club. Post pics when you can.

stampedeproject · 11:53 PM

Direct Conversion DONE! Now on to a standard conversion.

This conversion retains the brakes, uses dual 2s1p A123 packs and delivered 10 minutes of runtime.

I'll keep doing updates posts here.
http://stampedeproject.com/Yusa-1-8-...-buggy-rc.html

Very fast no wheelies though. Love it.

10.29.2007, 02:53 PM

Heres some interesting links I found by googling yusa buggy.
http://www.rcoffroad.hu/leirasok/pro-enigma.php
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...8&d=1076059047
http://world.inhobby.com/index.php?o...roduct&id=2126
http://cn.104info.com.tw/gate/gb/biz...no=16517523000

Apparently the buggy is called a Protech Enigma in europe, and there is a pro version thats called the Enigma XR. Yusa sold this buggy as a RTR called the B240. It looks like this RTR was/ is only sold in southeast asia. There is an updated version (maxx style front pivot ball suspension, laydown steering servo) of the rollers we bought that is sold here as the RD logics SHO, and as a "Swift" under various brands (power racing, prp, nanda). So im betting we can use most of the rd logics rear suspension and chassis parts on our yusas.

stampedeproject · 04:36 PM

Nice work!

Based on that I found Manuals for the Protech Enigma XS & XR

http://www.protech.be/Manuals/T59manual%20web.pdf

http://www.protech.be/Manuals/T56manual%20web.pdf

and this in the US - "Power Racing Katana"

http://www.powerracingrc.com/katana.shtml

And this.
http://www.larrysperformancercs.com/...ABX&type=store

and of course parts available in the US.
http://www.larrysperformancercs.com/...gi?category=43

and
RC-Boyz
http://search.stores.ebay.com/RCBoyz...saselZ16028217

I suddenly feel good that if I break something that I can get parts.

I am feeling like I got a better deal by the second.

stampedeproject · 10.30.2007, 07:33 PM

This is the PowerRacing Katana - look at the name on the wheel.

10.30.2007, 11:18 PM

Thanks for those links, especially the parts source.
I just placed an order to larrys performance for some carbon and aluminum goodies, and something called a front brace tie rod, which Im hoping will be a brace between the bellcrank upper plate and the center diff cover.

11.06.2007, 09:37 PM

The Power Racing parts fit, for the most part.

The carbon front upper brace fits fine, as do the lower arm mounts. The upper arm mount fits, but I had to mount it on the underside of the front brace, the opposite of the stock location. It also doesnt match the picture on their website, so I think they might have sent the wrong one. The front brace tie rod isnt what I had hoped for, its meant to brace the front upper brace to the chassis plate. I will have to move things around if I decide to use that.
I also finished the cooling setup on my mm.

Since I took these pictures, Ive flipped the servo and saver arm over to the inside to make room for a future second battery on that side. Maybe 6s on a MMM. Id like to do 8s and buy a neu 1515 2y and an MGM 9032, but thats too much money for me.

t-maxxracer32 · 11.07.2007, 01:34 AM

may i ask why you would want to do 8s?

i see people doing high voltage projects... is this so there is basically no heat generated?

i mean if 6s on a 2.5d is the same as 4s on a 1y why not just get the 1y since it will be cheaper for the 4s battery?

i realize the 1y and 4s is only 32k where as the 6s on 2.5 is 37 but im saying IF they were the same

does this make any sence? lol

BP-Revo · 11.07.2007, 02:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t-maxxracer32

may i ask why you would want to do 8s?

i see people doing high voltage projects... is this so there is basically no heat generated?

i mean if 6s on a 2.5d is the same as 4s on a 1y why not just get the 1y since it will be cheaper for the 4s battery?

i realize the 1y and 4s is only 32k where as the 6s on 2.5 is 37 but im saying IF they were the same

does this make any sence? lol

Well, because current is the contributing factor to heat generation. The less current used, the less heat produced.

Since watts is the power output of a vehicle, and watts = Voltage X Amps (current). When you up the voltage, current can fall and watts will stay constant. Less current means less heat (as well as more runtime, if you want to think of it that way).

To produce 1000 watts, a 10V setup would have to pull 100 amps. However, a 25V setup would have to pull just 40 amps.