LS2P Completed

Lightning Stadium 2 Pro
Mamba Max/Feigao 8XL
RC-Monster motor mount
RC-Monster battery tray
Neu 30C 4S 4100
Spectrum Receiver
CC BEC
Hitec 5955 Servo
Gearing is 16/50

This is my first conversion and fist 1/8 scale vehicle. So far it appears to be a good truggy. In my first run I had a issue where the set screw on the CV cross pin backed out allowing the pin to slip and carve a groove inside the steering arm. The drag from the pin scraping caused some damage to my C hubs. Thankfully HB is replacing the steering arms and hubs for me. Stock diff oil needs to be changed out. The front tires were unloading every time I got on the throttle. I'll be changing out the oil to 7/30/3 for the next run and adjust from there if needed.

[Thirdgen89GTA]

Very nice. The pin slipping out of the CV ball is actually a very common issue with LSP, and I'm shocked that it hasn't been fixed in the LS2P. I ended up using LOTS of locktite on mine and waiting 24 hours before installing them on the car. Worked well enough, but they eventually will work loose again. Just keep checking them before each run.

Good to know it is common. The steering arms on the LS2P are aluminum and I don't want to spend $60 every time the pin eats one so it looks like I'll be pulling the CV's and using a combination of loc-tite and heatshrink to keep the pin from slipping out again.

[lincpimp]

Do the pins have a small flat area for the set screw to tighten onto? If not make a flat area with a file and it will help the screw stay put. That, loctite, and the heatshrink should do the trick!

I have a LSP with a 8xl, mm and 4s trakpowers, i would recommend going to 50k if not 100k in the center, 30 didn't really do much for the front unloading; mine still unloads with 100K if i get on it.

Do you have any problems with the mm overheating with that fan on it?

[Thirdgen89GTA]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Do the pins have a small flat area for the set screw to tighten onto? If not make a flat area with a file and it will help the screw stay put. That, loctite, and the heatshrink should do the trick!

NO, it actually uses a pin with a set screw on the end to capture it. So you put the pin in the slot, and then the set screw follows it right in, plugging the hole. This is for the LSP CVD's, I don't know if thats been changed in the LS2P. Here was what handled the steering on my old LSP. :)



Waited so long for HB to fix the original LSP issues that like others I went to kyosho front end parts.

7.5 CNC hub carriers, cnc knuckles, sportwerks hubs, and Losi LST axles. nothing EVER broke on the front of my truck again combined with the LSP aluminum a-arms, and 6mm custom front arms holder.

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Do the pins have a small flat area for the set screw to tighten onto? If not make a flat area with a file and it will help the screw stay put. That, loctite, and the heatshrink should do the trick!

Looks like I need to take it apart tonight and verify the updated manual on the LS2P matches what was done. When I found the pin slipped out I just temporarily pushed it back in. In the exploded view of the supplemental manual they show the pin has a notch in it and the set screw goes in at the end of the barrel. These are new CV part numbers and appear to be somewhat different from the old part number as they had a set screw going in on th end of the CV to capture the cross pin in the middle for the 17mm hubs.

Many of the new part numbers aren't available for ordering yet so I'm hoping I don't do too much more damage until they are out there.

Lower left of page 3 shows the exploded view of the CV. http://www.hbeurope.com/manuals/66786.pdf

Originally Posted by elegal

I have a LSP with a 8xl, mm and 4s trakpowers, i would recommend going to 50k if not 100k in the center, 30 didn't really do much for the front unloading; mine still unloads with 100K if i get on it.

Do you have any problems with the mm overheating with that fan on it?

I may need to order more diff fluid then. I only ordered up to 30K at the hobby shop. I considered going with trakpowers but a offer came up for 2 neu batteries for a good price and I went for it.

So far I have not had any problems with the MM or 8XL overheating but I might not have pushed it as hard as you yet. Temps were around 120 after about 10 minutes of running (not on a track) just to get a feel for it. It's geared for about 38mph so I'm hoping it will stay under control. Timing is set to low and punch control is medium if I remember correctly.

[supralover72]

Very nice conversion! How are you liking that new lsp?

[lincpimp]

You mean the assy numbered 66479? The pin should have a flat spot where the set screw contacts it. That is just the same as the old lsp. Good threadlock and a good hex driver should help you get it tight. The heatshrink is not a bad idea, as it should contain the pin if it starts to fall out.

[rhylsadar]

hi

i have an old lsp-r pro converted that i havn't used it much yet. however i put some FG differential grease/oil in the center diff (FG part number 6512). this grease is very very thick. i had the impression that it worked out quite good. just as another possibility you may think of.

bye
rhylsadar

Originally Posted by supralover72

Very nice conversion! How are you liking that new lsp?

I've never run anything this scale before so I have no reference points. It handled well on it's first run considering the front unloading. On power the front was under steering but would turn tight off power. I only needed a few spacers added on the shocks to bring the arms up after the conversion. I can't remember what exactly it came in at with battery but it was under 10 pounds.

There is some slop in the front end that needs to be worked out. Some is caused by the C hubs I am replacing and some is in the steering linkage / servo saver setup. I need to figure out how I'm going to shim it up to get rid of the slop.

I picked up the solid front aluminum anti bend rod (C8120-1) and installed it last night. Not sure if it will make much of a difference from the link style anti bend rod it came with but looks a little better.

I'm a basher but this thing is making me want to take it to a track and see what it can actually do. After the parts come in from HB I may take a day off work and go.

Originally Posted by lincpimp

You mean the assy numbered 66479? The pin should have a flat spot where the set screw contacts it. That is just the same as the old lsp. Good threadlock and a good hex driver should help you get it tight. The heatshrink is not a bad idea, as it should contain the pin if it starts to fall out.

yes 66479. If it is the same there then the only change made was probably in the pin size for the 17mm hubs. I picked up a set of ofna hex drivers as I'm tired of cheaper tools. I hope these were worth the money.

[Thirdgen89GTA]

Originally Posted by Dewmerz

yes 66479. If it is the same there then the only change made was probably in the pin size for the 17mm hubs. I picked up a set of ofna hex drivers as I'm tired of cheaper tools. I hope these were worth the money.

A good cheap set of Hex drivers to get is the Dynamite hex drivers. Very durable, and have hardened steel replacable tips. Also cheap to buy as well. They have red, aluminum handles.

Great looking truck, I just bought a roller off Ebay yesterday, I always wanted on. On the Lightning GT and Lightning GTX2 they have a locking center gear. I've been trying to search for the parts to buy but they show up discontinued everywhere. It's should be just a drop in part. They upgraded to a center diff when the stadiums came out and used the same center diff braces. Anyone know of site that sells Lightning Hopups and parts? (besides Amain or Tower, just looking for more options)

[GO-RIDE.com]

Here's a tip: Put some industrial velcro on the bottom of your battery tray and battery. This will keep your batt from shifting forward on hard impacts preventing both the batt and tray from being damaged.

Superglue and heat shrink are a good combo fix for CV pins.

A little bit of slop in the front end is good for handling on rough tracks. Obviously you don't want too much, but if you get it to were there is none the car will get very twitchy in the rough.

I worked ont he CV a little last night. Pulling it back out I noticed the set screw was gone completely. At least I have a few extras of the size needed from the removed nitro stuff. I'm running into some trouble with binding on the CV when I put the set screw all the way down to the pin. I didn't feel like tearing into it too much last night so maybe this weekend I'll pull one of the other CV's and compare the feel to make sure it is right.

Parts from HPI/HB came in last night. They sent me the wrong steering arms so I'll have to talk with them again to see if they are willing to send me a set of the machined ones not the cast ones. C-hubs without installing them appear to have a similar amount of slop in the kingpin holes. This may be normal. I'll have to swap them out while I am tearing everything apart to see if it makes a difference.

Originally Posted by GO-RIDE.com

Here's a tip: Put some industrial velcro on the bottom of your battery tray and battery. This will keep your batt from shifting forward on hard impacts preventing both the batt and tray from being damaged.

I have a role of industrial velcro and have been thinking about putting some in there for extra assurance the battery is not going anywhere. The Neu 30C 4100 barely fits in the RC-Monster battery tray so I don't think it is going to be doing any sliding forward or backward. it was tight enough I had to notch one end for the balance wire and power wire to exit. I just notched a little too much.


The locking center on the GT/GTX2 looks interesting.