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Update with pics
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Joey
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Update with pics - 04.16.2009, 07:33 PM

Getting there....






   
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Joey
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Update with pics - 04.16.2009, 07:34 PM





   
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Joram
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03.29.2009, 03:52 PM

You need to use MOD1 pinions, no 48p or other p!!!!!!!!!!

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Joey
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03.30.2009, 09:00 PM

Well i went back to the senior design workshop and found the perfect sheet of aluminum for an esc plate. The holes are EXACTLY the right size for an M4 screw and were in the EXACTLY perfect spot to line up with the holes already in the chassis for the GP motor mount braces. So I snipped it up to size and here is what I have for an esc mount now. Notice it leaves just enough space for the motor to clear the top of it. Man I lucked out on this one!





   
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Takedown
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04.02.2009, 01:06 PM

Looks like a fun build joey. Make sure you get the pinion perfectly meshed with the CD/spur. Seems as of the motor is tilted towards the mount making the pinion set lopsided onto the cd/spur. If you ruin it this way it could give you issues with heat and excessive wear.


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Joey
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04.03.2009, 03:33 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Takedown View Post
Looks like a fun build joey. Make sure you get the pinion perfectly meshed with the CD/spur. Seems as of the motor is tilted towards the mount making the pinion set lopsided onto the cd/spur. If you ruin it this way it could give you issues with heat and excessive wear.
Hmm you have a point.. I just checked it and its actually no problem at all though, very miniscule I think it will be fine. I did notice that the CD, from a top down view, is actually angled a TINY bit. Like the left side is slightly forward and rigth side angled towards rear. But its VERY small and I dont think it will be a problem.
   
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littlegiant
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04.03.2009, 04:52 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joey View Post
Hmm you have a point.. I just checked it and its actually no problem at all though, very miniscule I think it will be fine. I did notice that the CD, from a top down view, is actually angled a TINY bit. Like the left side is slightly forward and rigth side angled towards rear. But its VERY small and I dont think it will be a problem.
More updates please. And more pictures. It will be best if u have a video of it running. I am waiting.
   
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Joey
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04.03.2009, 09:30 PM

Hahaha LG Im wishing I could have something new to update! For now Im deadlocked into studying day in and day out... no time for fun.

I have 3 packages in the mail... Bearings for the servo saver to replace the 4 bushings, hinge pins for the lower axle to arm joint, and duratrax warhead towers. The shock towers on the savx are too high for my liking, and I already have some warhead shocks (about 128mm) so Im going to try to hack up the X tower and mount in the warhead tower for some low riding goodness. Updates when I can... video... not for a while ;)

Oh and I balanced my wheels. They were WAY out of balance. I used small strips of duct tape on the inside of the rim and it worked great. Took the dogbones out and used the free spinning axle to balance, worked well. They are about 90% balanced now, definitely good enough but I may try to get it perfect sometime... just hard without a high quality balancing shaft thingy.

Last edited by Joey; 04.03.2009 at 09:35 PM.
   
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Takedown
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04.04.2009, 12:46 PM

The wh towers are nice. Alot of shock adjustment options.


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Joey
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04.09.2009, 05:57 PM

Seems like its gonna be more work than I thought to make those warhead towers work. Ill see what I can do when I find time.

Just put my short shocks on the savage with the stock towers, obviously the droop is completely gone but I did it just just so see how it rolls.

Well........

There is a HUGE amount of noise coming from the diffs, sounds like they need to be shimmed bad, but I didnt think savage diffs had that problem in stock form. Whats going on?!?!?!?!
   
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brushlessboy16
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05.04.2009, 05:52 PM

sounds like the shimming is off... might need to make it a little tighter to et rid of the noise.


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Joey
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05.07.2009, 10:32 PM

Well I took the rear diff out and put 2 shims between the pinion (? smaller gear of the 2) and the bearing it spins on to keep it pressed more against the big gear (bevel?). This seemed to kill about 50% of the noise, though it still makes a little. Its much better than before so Im happy and am just going to leave it as is. The front still needs it but Im in no mood to take the front apart to get to it right now haha.. (even though they are easy access diffs, my warhead tower mounting bracket is in the way and its a pain to get off...)

The shims I used werent the right size (too big diameter) but they arent big enough to make it a problem... hope not anyway!
   
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Joey
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05.07.2009, 10:34 PM

So I decided to mount the battery trays just barely below the CD plate, but just barely above the skid plates. So again if the truck bottoms out the battery trays will be fine, but if I curb the center part it will only hit the platic trays and not the CD plate, at least thats the idea. There will only be about 1 mm to spare on either side if this goes right. This is the only drawback to the way I decided to make this setup, but I dont plan on doing any rediculous bashing. Im going to be pretty careful with it, too big of an investment to trash around.

Heres an idea of what I was saying.



The extra bonus is that it gets the batteries REALLY low on the chassis. All the weight will be very low on this truck to Im hoping itll almost be a Savage Muggy when its all said and done haha...
   
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Joey
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05.07.2009, 10:35 PM

Got the motor plate pretty much done. If I need to drill out the hole a little more for the medusa it wont be a problem.





   
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Nixpus
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05.15.2009, 08:55 AM

Where does that center diff come from?

It looks like a damn easy way to make a brushless savage conversion... and it must save weight as well? Hmm... and on top of that you can center the motor. Nice :)
   
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