Project: Savage Flux 5T

[thzero]

Valid point... with one exception; I've been running my truggy with ProLine Badlands on Maximizer beadlocks or ProLine Trenchers. Both are fairly close in weight so well see. Also remember I'm only planning on running under 6S power.

Like I said, we'll see. If it ends up needing alloy bulks, so be it; good news is the 43t ring gear is going to be readily available since its used in the Vorza plus a bunch of HB vehicles.

Oh I forgot to mention that what is pictured is the HTBC9009 10t spiral pinion and the HBC8068 cup from the LightningStadiumSport. I hadnt thought of the Vorza until a bit later, but you can probably use the 67499 10t spiral pinion and the 103663 cup from the Vorza. The latter should work with the standard Savage drive dogbones but haven't tried them.

Originally Posted by Jahay

That is true regarding the plastic bulks... But none of the mentioned RCs are anywhere near as heavy as a savage nor do they use wheels and tyres as heavy as you intend to use.

As reference...

ProLine Badlands on Maximizer beadlock wheels: 12oz
ProLine Trenchers on Tech 5 wheels: 13 7/8 oz
ProLine Baja BowTies on ProLine SplitSix beadlock wheels: 18 1/8oz

Dont have my BigJoes on Axial beadlocks but pretty sure they are somewhere between Trenchers and Baja Bowties.

[_dV]

Re the FLM drag link hitting on the steering arm. I have the black metal sleeves that go in the drag link around the other way. The top of the sleeve then creates a little clearance between the drag link and the arm allowing it to move enough for normal steering.

I am interested in seeing the results of those spiral gears. Hope you have more luck than this guy. I'm happy with center diff using 52/11 atm but i guess you would need a lower ratio for the heavier vehicle.

The flat rear bulkhead plate is good simple idea. Keeps the rear diff in normal orientation but allows the bottom of TVPs to be completely flat. Would make it easy to add a bottom skidplate the entire length of the TVPs.

[thzero]

Yeah I tried the sleeves both ways. Once I assembled it all though I've got something else binding because the drag link isn't going full lock to lock. Probably going end up going to truggy arms eventually anyways.

Originally Posted by _dV

Re the FLM drag link hitting on the steering arm. I have the black metal sleeves that go in the drag link around the other way. The top of the sleeve then creates a little clearance between the drag link and the arm allowing it to move enough for normal steering.

Yeah, we'll see. Read through the thread you referenced, but hadn't thought about the bevel pinion sliding in like that. Havent had that issue with the truggy, so I guess well see.

Originally Posted by _dV

I am interested in seeing the results of those spiral gears. Hope you have more luck than this guy.

Well thats the backup plan.. go back to bulletproof diffs and run either a 52 or 54 spur with a 9-11 pinion.

Originally Posted by _dV

I'm happy with center diff using 52/11 atm but i guess you would need a lower ratio for the heavier vehicle.

Yeah, thats what I was thinking. Use something cheap to make a long skidplate for it.

Originally Posted by _dV

The flat rear bulkhead plate is good simple idea. Keeps the rear diff in normal orientation but allows the bottom of TVPs to be completely flat. Would make it easy to add a bottom skidplate the entire length of the TVPs.

[thzero]

Top view of the mockup of the custom TVPs showing the front 5T dogbone from TCS Crawlers, an RC8T center diff, and a New Era extended Savage dogbone (120mm).



The New Era extended Savage dogbone was the longest 8mm ball dogbone I could find and I was trying to avoid going the custom dogbone route. Unfortunately between the two dogbones and the center diff, the chassis is about 8mm too long. So that basically takes the 22.4" wheelbase down to a 22" wheelbase. Not that huge of deal.

[thzero]

Because someone asked for the measurements for the sleeve that allows the 24mm hex hub from the Baja 5B to work with the Savage XL axle.

[lincpimp]

Good info.

I do remember you mentioning breaking the hpi axles. I do agree that the adapters are a bad idea, and the entire axle needs to be changed.

Pity hpi does not make a kit like this to fit the shd dogbones:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKZR3&P=OW

Or something like this to replace them with cvds:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLHF4&P=OW

[thzero]

Yeah... what they really need to do is replace the Savage suspension and graft on the D8T arms instead. :)

[lincpimp]

They need a wide arm setup with 8mm axle cvds and a better hub design with increased steering throw for the savage. And fixed rear hubs as an option too. And upper arms with turnbuckles that match the wide arms. The could stick with the c hub setup they have now, just some wider hubs with larger bearings spaced farther apart for better load handling.

Can't wait for the cen stuff to come in, looking at the pics and diagrams that really looks like the hot ticket.

[Jahay]

hmmm only time will tell about the CEN parts!

[thzero]

Be interested to see what measurements you get .

From my measurements for suspension width, with the suspension flat on the ground, from outside hex to outside hex:

Savage X: 14.25"
Savage XL: 15.25"
RC8T: 15.125"

I was a bit surprised by this. But on the flip side, the suspension arm is longer so the you should have more suspension travel. Also, the axles and extenders are far more robust than the Savage junk. Unfortunately not viable yet for the build as no one has made any 17mm-24mm hex adapters.

[thzero]

Made some changes. First off, I had to shorten the chassis by 8mm in order to use dogbones that I could find; although I may have found somewhere to do custom dogbones so I may change it back.

If I looked at 3S, or 6S, I could definetly fit doubles within the frames, but would need to have the batteries (obviously with 5 or 6S block; 5S being what I'm running now) positioned over the drive shaft. As part of the process of creating new frames, I wanted to reduce the CoG so was hoping to run the batteries on either side of the drive shaft low in the frame. This meant 3S batteries. There is about 30mm clearance (driveshaft is thicker than the standard Savage) on either side of the driveshaft which is enough for most 3S 40C ~5000mah batteries.

But with the Mamba XL having come out, and having 8S max with motor braking, I wanted the ability to not only run 6S but to also run 8S batteries. After sampling the various 40C or above, 5000+ or above 4S batteries I realized I needed at most 50mm wide area for the batteries. Unfortunately since the Savage TVPs are only 73.75 mm wide from inside to inside, that means that two 4S batteries won't work as most of the batteries were around 40-45mm wide!

So what I did was refactor where I was going to put and mount the batteries. In the forward section, I create two cutouts that leave room for two 3S or 4S to sit on either side of the driveshaft. The cutouts mean that the batteries will extend beyond the TVPs, but that shouldn't be an issue nor should the cut-outs as I plan to use 4.5mm carbon fiber for the frames. A bottom plate, cut out of CF again, will act as the battery holder and as a skid plate of sorts too.

Will need to create some type of guard that surrounds the outside of the batteries and attaches to the TVPs to keep the soft packs from being damaged; either that or will need to construct some battery shells for soft packs or just use hardcase 3S when running 6S.

[toplakd]

I like this design also. More than 5b design. I made one just like that for an Austrian guy. With transmission of course :)
I see also, that you wont need a skid plate as your chassis will be almost completely sealed at the bottom. Nice work.




Dejan

[thzero]

Yeah, this is my build thread... thanks!

Originally Posted by toplakd

If this picture is not apropriate, than let me know and I will remove it.

[thzero]

Well I've been pondering what I want to do with this. I keep wanting to add truggy features to it, i.e. truggy diff cases (D8/D8T/etc), center diff, swapping to diff arms, etc. Not to mention the issues with fitting 8S between the rails. The above solution seems best, but I am just not content with it.

So I began to wonder why not just go with a truggy (my RC8T) to began with. The issue is I really want to run the Baja 5B tires/wheels. But there aren't any 24mm adapters; after poking around I found that Integy, yup the same, makes some extenders for "buggies" and a different couple of options; so I picked them up to see.

First is this.
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...155&p_catid=75

However, this don't work as when the wheels are added there aren't any threads left to thread the nut on.

Second is this.
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...31&p_catid=102

Well for my case, they were two wide so the pin wouldn't line up with the hole in the axle.

Third is this.
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...539&p_catid=93

Ah! They work; almost... had to grind a tad off the end to get the pin to match up, not too much and not where it will seriously hamper things. They are pretty well machined and very beefy, much more so than the standard RC8T axle extensions, but its probably made of the standard crummy alloy Integy uses. The one thing I really don't like is that all that keeps the pin in, and its a standard pin through design, is a large o-ring. I should note that these come with two sets of pin holes, the 3mm for like the RC8T and a slightly smaller set; the pin holes are perpendicular to each other. So these should fit the LST/LST2/LSTXXL, most 8th scale truggies and buggies, plus probably some more. Savage not so much.

These things are wide! From the outside of the bearing to the outside of the hex, the standard RC8T axle extension is 18.75mm. These are 38.5mm. So thats a 39.5mm, 19.75 per side, of extension! Not quite sure I needed that, could use probably just 20mm. Total width, outside hex to outside hex, is 422.25mm.

Here they are in comparison to the standard RC8T axle extensions...



And here they are on the truck... need to pull it apart and get a comparison shot between the two.



Obviously these are 23mm hexes, so need some metal tape to take up the slack for use with the 24mm Baja wheels. The biggest issue is that the threaded shank is only 9.5mm as compared to the 24mm Baja hex hub which has a threaded shank of 12.5mm. So the nut won't fully thread onto the shank. As a reference, the thickness of the wheel is 4.5mm for some ProLine Tech 5 wheels as compared to 6.5mm for the ProLine Desperado wheels. Basically there is about 3.4mm of thread outside the Desperado wheel and the hex nut is 6mm thick; slight issue. Suppose I could grind down the wheel about 2mm; wouldn't be prefect but still.



Now, if I could only find someone who could machine me a set of these, about 19mm shorter, and with 24mm hubs and 12.5mm threaded shank it'd be prefect.

For reference, the pin through design for the RC8T has a pin that is 3mm diameter and 16.5mm long; not quite the 4mm that the Baja uses, but its slightly thicker and definetly longer than the standard Savage pin.

And just some shots with the 5B tires mounted...

[Knez]

Can u maybe provide info about the tire/ rim, front and back?

How tall are tires, what is the weight of the rear combo and front combo?
Dosent look much offset by the rims alone?

How do u like them?