New Mamba software (beta) posted today

[thzero]

Better yet another curve that we can manipulate based on throttle position.

Originally Posted by alvinsmith75

You know what else would be great? If we could set a value where the toque contol would not functon past a certain rpm so it wouldn't work over, say, half throttle. This way it wouldn't affect top speed.

Hi Guys,

While we're on the subject, I have a Mamba Micro Pro/CM26 combo that I'm very happy with. However, I can't seem to get it to run the kv test to set up Torque Control. My situation is this:

Throttle range just calibrated.
ESC off, no battery connected.
Motor dismounted from truck.
ESC firmware 1.28, castle link 3.255.

Procedure:
1. Plug ESC throttle cable into Field Link Card, card into computer via USB (XP SP2).
2. Castle Link software correctly identifies ESC and reads out settings.
3. Check "Perform Required Motor Test" box in power tab, change torque control setting to 1.0.
4. Click "Update" button.
5. Settings appear to be written to ESC successfully.
6. Unplug throttle cable from Field Link card, plug back into throttle channel on Rx.
7. Turn Tx on, make sure throttle EPA is at max.
8. Turn ESC on. Normal arming sequence proceeds.
9. Run to full throttle. Motor spins up normally.

At this point, it seems like the ESC is just operating normally rather than being in test mode. It's hard to tell looking at a bare motor, but it acts like all my settings were correctly written, I can run forward and reverse with the right lockout setting, etc etc.

Do I have something wrong in the procedure? Anyone else had this happen?

Thanks! I sent an email off to Castle support about this, but I'm not holding my breath waiting for them to debug a beta firmware for me. I'm a software engineer, so I understand that one...

[revo guy]

I have used firmware 1.24 for a long time (since release) without issues.
I upgraded to 1.28 yesterday and tried to calibrate the motor kv (its in an e-revo brushless 2200kv) it gave a reading of ~6200kv Twice.
Then I just wanted to run my truck with my friend so I disabled torque control and I noticed that the motor control at start was Terrable.
I went back to 1.24 and it was as smooth as can be.

Any ideas why 1.28 had much worse starts and the torque control calibration was so far off?

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by revo guy

I have used firmware 1.24 for a long time (since release) without issues.
I upgraded to 1.28 yesterday and tried to calibrate the motor kv (its in an e-revo brushless 2200kv) it gave a reading of ~6200kv Twice.
Then I just wanted to run my truck with my friend so I disabled torque control and I noticed that the motor control at start was Terrable.
I went back to 1.24 and it was as smooth as can be.

Any ideas why 1.28 had much worse starts and the torque control calibration was so far off?

We know there is a startup issue and a 'tic' issue (hesitation) when using torque control... We will have a follow-up in about two weeks.

This release was more of a public testing release for the torque control.

We'll have a new release in about two weeks.

Thanx!

Patrick

[V0RT3X]

Previous posts:

"The Kv test reports Kv as electrical Kv. So it will show "true" Kv on a two pole motor. Your 1600Kv motor is a 4pole, so it will show exactly double the "real" Kv. So, with timing (as programmed) the Kv of your motor is about 1900."

Just when I want to upgrade I can't find my Castle Link anywhere.

[Winstoncup]

This new firmware upgrade has me wondering some things:

#1. Since Torque is being controlled, will the amp spikes be tamed in proportion to the Torque Setting?

#2. Will there be an efficiency gain by running higher Voltage and taming the setting for how the motor is controlled?

Example:

Castle Neu 2200kv on 6S versus Castle Neu 2200kv on 4S

The 6S setup is "tamed" with torque control and throttle limiting to mimic the performance of the 4S setup. But the 4S setup is set to "all out" performance. Both setups geared the same in.......ummmm........let's say an E Revo.

The switching of the fet's on the powerboard will still conduct the full pack voltage, only the "off" time will be longer than the "on" time with 6S, compared to the 4S setup.

#3. I'm also wondering if these "tame it down" settings would allow using higher kv motors on higher than rated voltage?

Temperatures being the overall guide, of course.
This was a copy and paste job from sikeston and I would love some input on this

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by Winstoncup

This new firmware upgrade has me wondering some things:

#1. Since Torque is being controlled, will the amp spikes be tamed in proportion to the Torque Setting?

#2. Will there be an efficiency gain by running higher Voltage and taming the setting for how the motor is controlled?

Example:

Castle Neu 2200kv on 6S versus Castle Neu 2200kv on 4S

The 6S setup is "tamed" with torque control and throttle limiting to mimic the performance of the 4S setup. But the 4S setup is set to "all out" performance. Both setups geared the same in.......ummmm........let's say an E Revo.

The switching of the fet's on the powerboard will still conduct the full pack voltage, only the "off" time will be longer than the "on" time with 6S, compared to the 4S setup.

#3. I'm also wondering if these "tame it down" settings would allow using higher kv motors on higher than rated voltage?

Temperatures being the overall guide, of course.
This was a copy and paste job from sikeston and I would love some input on this

#1 - yes
#2 - not usually... there is some efficiency penalty when running at less than full throttle -- so if the 4S system is running a higher percentage of full throttle PWM, it will run more efficiently.

#3 -- not what it was designed for. And remember, most of the time RPM is the limiting factor with motor ratings - -and torque control doesn't limit RPM.

thanx!

Patrick

i no since i got my 2200kv castle Neu motor on saturday with the new software is having a lot of issues.

so i might have some thing wrong with the MMM. either the motor or the esc. ****ing great. i dont know what the **** is wrong with it. AHHHHHHH!

every time i drive the maxx now, its not as loose as it used to be. its doesnt sound good anyways. im scared that something is ruined yet every time i let go of the throttle the truck sounds like its grinding on something, or it flips. and when i just lightly touch the break, the truck goes into a ****ing barrel roll. WTF????

please help me!!

i just dont know what to do anymore .

i took the motor out of the truck, and the truck rolls fine, no grinding noises or anything. yet when i put the motor back in it starts grinding again.

guys, im gonna cry!!

i just dont want this truck to turn into my revo. infact im not going to let it.

could it be that there is no grease left in the transmission or the diffs?
Originally Posted by Dethspune
I know what grinding sound you speak of. I have a T-Maxx I've been converting, and with both the Novak 6.5 and the MMM, it's been doing it. Lemme guess, if you roll the truck on the ground just pushing it, it kinda lurches forward in steps and clicks n shudders as it goes through the steps?

It SHOULDN'T be the tranny, because the tranny rotates smoothly when the motor is not connected, right? I thought SuicideNeil explained in another thread somewhere that that's the difference between a slotted and an unslotted motor, those defined positions in it's rotation. Then, my guess is, that after you count the gear ratio from the wheels to the motor, that feeling is MUCH MUCH more apparent. It sounds and feels awful to me, but I've figured that it's just the way it is. Someone correct me if I'm wrong....this is exactly what is happening, yet it didnt do it in the afternoon until i went to do the new torque control setting on castle link which got me to take the motor a way from the spur gear. then i put the mototr back and did the gear mesh between the spur and thats when it sounded aweful.

theres gotta be a way to fix the sudden breaking and the grinding. with all my expierences in RC, this does not sound 100% normal at all.? there is some thing seriously wrong.

either its the Motor, ESC or the Transmission and diffs.

some bodys gotta have an idea? come on guys. help a guy out?

im still going to have to get some grease because my transmission is probley dryer then before i put the system in.
well i have the drag brake disabled and the brake it self is set at 30%. its not much braking at 10% because i have already tryed it.
and i really dont know why the problem just started all of a sudden too.

im not having flex issues at all.

that is my issue so far!!!!

[Pdelcast]

Brushlesswonder...

The new software is not release software -- so it isn't put into production units. It's Beta software, for people to try out and give comments.

You can always downgrade back the previous version if you are having issues with it.

Patrick

Originally Posted by Pdelcast

Brushlesswonder...

The new software is not release software -- so it isn't put into production units. It's Beta software, for people to try out and give comments.

You can always downgrade back the previous version if you are having issues with it.

Patrick

ok, i have downgraded to 1.24 software. i hope this works. is the 2200kv motor supposed to spin in steps?

[crazyjr]

Originally Posted by brushlesswonder

ok, i have downgraded to 1.24 software. i hope this works. is the 2200kv motor supposed to spin in steps?

Yes, there is sort of a lurch then go to it (I call it a sort of chop or detent). It is due to the design of the motor, it's similar to brushed. the wires are wound on iron cores but in the can instead of the armature shaft. I have a Neu 1515/2.5d, similar to your but wound different, and that is normal

[SpEEdyBL]

Yes, there are 12 distinct "steps" where the rotor likes to sit, per revolution - most notable when you try to spin the rotor by hand. Is this what you are refering to?

Originally Posted by SpEEdyBL

Yes, there are 12 distinct "steps" where the rotor likes to sit, per revolution - most notable when you try to spin the rotor by hand. Is this what you are refering to?

yes, this is what my motor is doing. so i just wanted to make sure it was fine. also is the motor supposed to be hard to turn by hand?

[nitrostarter]

Originally Posted by brushlesswonder

yes, this is what my motor is doing. so i just wanted to make sure it was fine. also is the motor supposed to be hard to turn by hand?

It will be due to the powerful magnets and motor design.

Originally Posted by nitrostarter

It will be due to the powerful magnets and motor design.

ok cool. thanks guy for all the help. i just dont want to be a pain in the ass.