simplechamp's Jammin X2 carbon on-road GT - Page 2 - RC-Monster Forums

simplechamp · 01.16.2011, 10:43 PM

Any idea of what I should use? Or source for some thin strips of Delrin?

Or maybe just use some thin strips of aluminum? Those are easy to find at any hardware store, but I feel like the plastic/Delrin would be "slicker" and less likely to catch on something. I'd bevel the edges like the DE Racing skids.

I have been following your on-road build too, looking good!

lincpimp · 01.17.2011, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplechamp

Any idea of what I should use? Or source for some thin strips of Delrin?

Or maybe just use some thin strips of aluminum? Those are easy to find at any hardware store, but I feel like the plastic/Delrin would be "slicker" and less likely to catch on something. I'd bevel the edges like the DE Racing skids.

I have been following your on-road build too, looking good!

Thanks, blew up my esc in the testing phase so I will have to rob one off another vehicle.

Maybe abs plastic would work? That is pretty cheap and available everywhere.

nativepaul · 01:59 AM

Are those gold coloured bevel gears on your front/rear diffs lightweight solid titanium alloy units or just titanium nitride coated steel for ware resistance like drill bits? I may have to investigate whether they will fit my hot bodies diffs or if anyone else makes ones that do if they are solid titanium and offer a decent weight saving.

Thats a good idea with the rub strips, my buggy is much stiffer since my on-road conversion so even with the reduced ride hight im not planning on grounding out much, but like yours my surface isn't the best (thats why we convert buggies rather than just run serpents right) and I'm sure it will get the occasional scratch, I'm now thinking of gluing 2mm titanium welding rods that can be found fairly cheaply on Ebay to the underside, one down the middle and one down each side which should give good protection to the bottom for very little weight gain and also give a cool firework show like the F1 cars do if it grounds out.

I'm digging all the carbon, you should consider making carbon battery trays too, very lightweight and lower CoG too as they sit directly on the chassis.

Big House · 01.17.2011, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nativepaul

Are those gold coloured bevel gears on your front/rear diffs lightweight solid titanium alloy units or just titanium nitride coated steel for ware resistance like drill bits? I may have to investigate whether they will fit my hot bodies diffs or if anyone else makes ones that do if they are solid titanium and offer a decent weight saving.

Thats a good idea with the rub strips, my buggy is much stiffer since my on-road conversion so even with the reduced ride hight im not planning on grounding out much, but like yours my surface isn't the best (thats why we convert buggies rather than just run serpents right) and I'm sure it will get the occasional scratch, I'm now thinking of gluing 2mm titanium welding rods that can be found fairly cheaply on Ebay to the underside, one down the middle and one down each side which should give good protection to the bottom for very little weight gain and also give a cool firework show like the F1 cars do if it grounds out.

I'm digging all the carbon, you should consider making carbon battery trays too, very lightweight and lower CoG too as they sit directly on the chassis.

You are going to need to look into some foams or some more tires. You are sure to rip the rubber right off the wheels with minimal throttle application.

simplechamp · 03:11 PM

The diff gears are just TiNi coated, the material is steel as far as I know. The were made by Sportwerks, which discontinued it's RC vehicles and parts, but Losi has the same exact gears too. Part # LOSB3535. They should fit your HotBodies diffs fine, the alloy diff cups I'm using are actually Lightning Stadium cups, they are the same as Jammin cups.

I think I'm going to stick with the NEXX8 battery trays for now. They might be a little higher COG with standing the lipos on edge, but they fit perfectly with the chassis layout. I might try a single pack setup eventually, wouldn't be difficult to switch at all.

P.S. I've always really liked your CF rallygame car, it's one of the things that inspired me to do mine!

simplechamp · 01.17.2011, 08:47 PM

Ordered a piece of Delrin and a piece of PTFE (Teflon) on Ebay.

Anyone know if you can dye PTFE? The Delrin is already black, but the PTFE only came in white.

snellemin · 01.17.2011, 09:35 PM

Hey, I just ordered RCM mod 1 28T and 30T pinions for the GTP's. Had to mention it for those days you feel like doing a speed run with your carbon chassis.

Big House · 01.17.2011, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snellemin

Hey, I just ordered RCM mod 1 28T and 30T pinions for the GTP's. Had to mention it for those days you feel like doing a speed run with your carbon chassis.

I am currently running a 24t in my GTP with my Castle 2200 combo. On 6s I should be able to hit 100. on 4 and 5s it is somewhat controllable but all the way fun.

simplechamp · 01.17.2011, 09:41 PM

I didn't realize RCM had pinions that large now. Good to know. Size DOES matter

simplechamp · 01.17.2011, 11:15 PM

I've always really liked your rides Big House. You and nativepaul are really where I got the ideas to do my own CF on-road project.

simplechamp · 01.18.2011, 01:31 PM

Received the Kyosho IGT bumper and body mounts today. Both fit great. Just a matter of drilling a few holes in the CF shock towers for the body mounts, and I'll do that when I'm drilling the holes in the chassis for the battery trays.

The bumper holes lined right up in front, so no mods needed there. It doesn't come quite as far back as I had hoped, but it should work. I may look at adding a small piece of the Delrin behind it.

Those are the last few things needed, along with making some rub strips and getting a body. It's really all finally coming together!

simplechamp · 01.20.2011, 07:44 PM

Sent out a stock alloy ackerman plate to Damon @ Diggity Designs to have him make a few for me out of CF. I thought about having him do the FF and RF hingepin holders, but I think I'm going to keep them alloy for now. Besides those I think I'll have just about as much CF on this baby as I can!

nativepaul · 01.21.2011, 12:14 PM

I think that was a good choice, I did make a set of CF hinge-pin carriers but carbon has wears poorly and I decided that I would have to glue the hinge-pins to the carriers to make sure the arms turn on the pins and get good life out of them before slop developed, but as arms and pins are the only thing I have had to replace on my buggy so far I thought that making a new set of carriers each time I change an arm or pin was a bit much for the weight I would save, especially as the big 5mm thick front and rear ones which I assumed weighed a ton turned out to be mainly hollow with thin stiffening webs.

simplechamp · 01.21.2011, 12:42 PM

Yeah, that's what I figured, probably wouldn't work out the best. You could maybe improve the design by using plastic inserts like some newer vehicles use, but the alloy are fine as they are.

I think it's needless to say I have more than enough CF as it stands now! I know there are a lot of people out there who wouldn't put a single piece of CF on their RC's, and I understand some of the arguments against it. But for me I just love the stuff, not only for it's properties, but also because I love the look. In the end it's my RC so I'll make it how I like!

simplechamp · 12:15 AM

Received a 50T Delrin Slipperential spur today and rebuilt my Slipperential with it. Needed to go with the 50T because I'm using the high kv Vector 8 motor, and my gearing options were too limited with the 46T. Going to start out with 15/50, right about 42mph. This will be my first time using a plastic spur, so I look forward to trying it.

The spur was a bit too large to clear the chassis so I added in some black nylon spacers to a big order I was placing at Bolt Depot already.

I also decided to can the idea of using 1/8 buggy front shocks, and I'm now going to be using Revo shocks all around. Main reason being the cost and availability of proper rate springs. I was looking at both Jato and Revo springs, and it looks like the Jato springs should be good for what I need. Probably pick up the variable damping kit to play around with too. I used to have all this stuff when I had my E-Revo. Sucks when you sell stuff and then end up having to buy it again!