Looking for a buggy project

[BrianG]

@GD: I noticed that even stock with the steel spur, I could feel the teeth quite easily. When I added the plastic spur, it was really bad - almost to the point where I couldn't turn it! I all but had a spool in my hand! So, I did a search here (what a novel idea; searching for an answer! :)) and found others having the same issue when using the Ofna diffs. They removed most, if not all, the shims. That was not acceptable to me so I made the gasket/spacer. I really think it won't leak because the o-ring is still inside the spur lip so it's still sealed. Only time will tell I guess. I would've used paper/rubber/etc gasket but it would've been MUCH harder to make. I'm limited here! :)

It's still got a ways to go. I have all the parts, but I have to figure out where that gargantuan Quark is gonna go! I had everything planned for a MM, but decided on a true 1/8th scale ESC with the Neu.

It seems like I am running into all kinds of snafus too:

1) First the diff thing. But now that's solved (I hope).

2) Then, the motor mount mesh adjust holes are not quite wide enough to get the Neu motor screws in right, so I have to have the motor cock-eyed a little. No big deal, but now I can't get the motor down low enough to fit my 14T pinion! 15T is the absolute minimum tooth count I can use. I just hope it's not overgeared now. So, this is solved too (maybe).

3) Now, the mounting of the Quark. The ESC by itself is easy enough to mount, but I want to install some heatsinks on it and the resulting increase in footprint is giving me problems. Just a few minutes ago, I made a couple mods to the body mounting posts so it sits about 5mm higher for more internal clearance. So, I'm trying all kinds of layouts using Legos for mock mounting. Once I get the mounting idea down (and I'm really close now), I then have to fab the mounts and paint them to match the scheme.

So, it'll be until at least next weekend before it's done.

@Sylvester: Oh, you can be sure I'll get a bunch of nice pics when I'm done and you guys will be the first to see it.

[glassdoctor]

Can you shave a little on the screw slots so the fit is right? I know you probably hate to do that but if it's pretty close I would do it. I've had to do that on my homemade ones more than once. ;)

Diff: what some have done is use some extra stock gaskets to shim the gear.... same thing you did with the lexan, but just using several gaskets. I'm not sure the lexan will seal well enough by itself, but if not it's no biggie to add a gasket.

Definitely get some pics, even if it's only ALMOST done, lol.

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by glassdoctor

Can you shave a little on the screw slots so the fit is right? I know you probably hate to do that but if it's pretty close I would do it. I've had to do that on my homemade ones more than once. ;)

Diff: what some have done is use some extra stock gaskets to shim the gear.... same thing you did with the lexan, but just using several gaskets. I'm not sure the lexan will seal well enough by itself, but if not it's no biggie to add a gasket.

Definitely get some pics, even if it's only ALMOST done, lol.

When I first found out the slots weren't quite right, I was ready to do something like you suggested before I decided not to. I even had the dremel in my hand, but I got scared. :002: I'll see how the temps are with the 15T before I go ruin, I mean modify, Mike's motor mount. :) If I find I need to go to a 14T, I'll have to do the modification you suggested and hope for the best.

Where would I find these gaskets? Before I made the lexan one, I looked at Tower and saw these, but the screw holes on the one I made are VERY close to the edge of the diff compared to the pictures at Tower, so I didn't think they'd work. At any rate, I'll see if this works and go from there. Mike ought to carry some of those in the RCM store (hint hint ;)).

Right now, it doesn't look much different from pictures posted a month or so ago except for Mike's mount and the Neu mounted to it. By the time I do anything different, it'll be done anyway! So, you'll just have to wait. :) Besides, it's not like this is the first (nor the best) conversion on here...

Thanks for the suggestions!

[glassdoctor]

Those gaskets should work fine... they are soft adn flexible enough that the holes don't have to be perfect.

As for the gearing, 15/46 will be ok... very fast for the track. :) I'm figuring it will run about 36-38mph based on what I clocked mine at. And I suggest you get an 18T gear for some +45mph fun in the street. :027: I made mine from an emaxx lightweight top shaft.

13 or 14 pinion would be a nice option for the small track so keep the dremel handy, lol.

I did have mine geared 14/46 with the 1512 1.5Y motor at hobby haven (about 10% lower gearing than your 15/46 factoring in kv) but I went up to 16/46 when I raced at a bigger track in Waterloo so it could stretch it's legs a bit more.

[BrianG]

OK, thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Looks like I might as well do the dremel mod. I don't think I'll be traveling too far outside DSM unless I really get into racing, so HH is about it.

And you're right, I figure around 36mph with my setup. Really, that's fine as I plan on keeping this strictly for track use. But you never know. :)

brian g, k first is first lol

I LOVE UR BUGGY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

now second u got pm!!

[BrianG]

PM answered and thanks. :)

Well, I dremeled out the mount slightly to get the motor to fit right. It's amazing what less than 0.5mm will do! Now I can use my 14T pinion. Yay!

I ended up ordering those Ofna gaskets at Tower. The diff still isn't leaking, but I might as well do it right, especially now when everything is apart.

I'm still having a heck of a time trying to fit the Quark on there! What's tough is trying to find a position that will make wiring neater while keeping it away from the body enough so it won't get abused if the buggy lands on its lid. But, I think I have a plan. :) So I also ordered some 1/16" thick 6061 aluminum sheet (pretty good price at Tower too). If it turns out like I think it will, it should be pretty.

keep us updated lol i will need all i can get! lol

and thanks for insipreing me to convert a buggy!! and spend 2k on a rc car lol its worth it tho, especially when u can make a few parts for it that u cant buy off the shelf

[BrianG]

This is only one of many buggies I've seen here. Do a little searching and you'll find a LOT of very nice setups.

The only trouble with fabbing your own parts is that if one breaks, you can't simply run into your LHS and get a replacement; you have to build it over again. This of course effectively kills a race day!

[sleebus.jones]

Originally Posted by BrianG

I ended up ordering those Ofna gaskets at Tower. The diff still isn't leaking, but I might as well do it right, especially now when everything is apart.

Do you have a part number handy? I was unable to find 'em, and my diff is bleeding silicone oil all over my chassis. That plastic ring is exactly what the diff needs. How did you go about making it?

I'm seriously considering a 777 diff, just for ease of maintenance.

Sleeb

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by sleebus.jones

Do you have a part number handy? I was unable to find 'em, and my diff is bleeding silicone oil all over my chassis. That plastic ring is exactly what the diff needs. How did you go about making it?

I'm seriously considering a 777 diff, just for ease of maintenance.

Sleeb

I don't know the Ofna specific part number, but glassdoctor said these should work.

The plastic one I made was done simply by tracing out the size needed and using lexan scissors to cut the rough shape. Then, I used a dremel sanding wheel for the fine shaping. Note: Even though it hasn't leaked yet, I don't know if it will under actual use. To avoid the chance, I simply bought the real gaskets.

I thought about getting a 777 diff as well. Seems a lot less trouble overall.

part numbers for the 777 diff?? please??? lol

and those will work no mods? then i can use the right stuff, correct???

[BrianG]

Sorry, I don't know the part numbers. I'd probably just pick up the whole diff from ebay or something like that - it'll be easier and cheaper than building it from parts.

Anyway, I'm bummed. :dft004: Turns out the Quark simply won't fit. I can get it where I want, but the edge of the ESC is too close (~1/8") to the lipo batteries for my liking. If I move it so it has enough space, it sits too close to the body and may contact it if/when I crash and it lands on its lid. :007: The 80B would fit much better, but the current isn't high enough IMO. So, I had to get a MM as much as I didn't really want to. Oh well, at least I'll have an ESC for my next project.

that STNKS!!! lol didnt someone say ohh y did u get the quark when u could of had the mm for 140$$ less????? lol

[Sylvester]

That was MetalMan! :p Sorry to hear that Brian..