BK Controller set up problem

Originally Posted by lutach

You mentioned the bridge came unsoldered. Did the traces broke off or just where the solder was came off?

I think it just came unsoldered...if the traces broke off would it still work? If they did break off can they easily be replaced?

[lutach]

Originally Posted by evader

I think it just came unsoldered...if the traces broke off would it still work? If they did break off can they easily be replaced?

I have a BK that had the same problem. What I did was just expose where the trace is and soldered on top of it. The PCP trace that was on the bridge have to be removed. I wish I had it with out the black shrink wrap as I would take some detailed pictures for you. Contact GriffinRU, he'll have a solution for this.

[GriffinRU]

Do you have 6V or 5V UBEC? I had problems in the past with Airtronics receiver running at 6V from similar UBEC...

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by evader

I think it just came unsoldered...if the traces broke off would it still work? If they did break off can they easily be replaced?

Yes, restore your broken trace to match attached image.

Originally Posted by GriffinRU

Do you have 6V or 5V UBEC? I had problems in the past with Airtronics receiver running at 6V from similar UBEC...

I believe it's a 6V UBEC. I originally had a JRRS300 receiver in it but it was doing the same thing so I tried the Airtronics receiver...but still no better...

[GriffinRU]

Do you have a picture of your ESC?
Do you need help in restoring connector/traces?

there are a couple pics on the first page of this thread. The esc is the one in the white shrink wrap I'm guessing?

I would love some help in restoring the connector/traces...I really have no idea what I'm doing

[Dafni]

Here's my bet: If it's okay when you ease into the throttle, but stutters when you punch it, your batteries are too weak. The BKs do that when your batteries are a) almost empty, or b) not up to the task.

Try with better batteries, chances are your issues will disappear.

Daf

ok, I'll try some new batteries. I've just been using the ones that came with it...so I really don't know how good they are or aren't. What batteries should I use? I've got a few fairly new 3000 packs that I put in my sons emaxx for him. Would those be decent enough to use just to see if that's the problem or do I need something better than that?

[Dafni]

Basically new NiMH cells should do the trick. But decent Lipos would show you the real potential of your setup.

Thanks. I think I'll hold off on getting any lipos until I figure out if this truck will even work properly or not

[GriffinRU]

Good call Daniel, but he still needs to restore connector, otherwise he cannot re-program it or cannot enable/disable BEC, I do not know which one is broken i.e. close to the board edge (usual suspect, programming jumper) or second one from boards edge (enable/disable BEC). If it is BEC's jumper than he is Ok because he doesn't need it, better be disabled, but if not then restoration required.

To evader:
You can send it to me and I will recover it for you, just cover the shipment cost ($5.00 by priority mail). If you want I can add couple goodies to your ESC to improve it a little bit. If interested send me PM.

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by evader

ok, just to make sure I'm doing everything properly. These are the steps I followed from the link posted above...

remove the red programming bridge (little red jumper near the battery leads). While you are there, you should also remove the black BEC jumper if you are using a receiver pack or UBEC as recommended. This black tab is near the red jumper, but tucked under the heatshrink. Remove this to disable the BEC and utilize the receiver pack/UBEC.
Now plug in the receiver pack/UBEC and the main batteries and wait. After 5 seconds, you will here a beep from the motor. When you here this beep, move the throttle to full power and wait. after another 5 seconds, you will here another beep. When you here this, move your throttle control to full reverse and wait. After 5 seconds, you will here a double beep, indicating that set up is complete. Now replace the red programming jumper and turn off/unplug your main batteries and receiver pack.

So this is what I've done...

step 1 - I remove the red jumper that is sticking out in the first picture I've attached as well as the black one that is located beside it.
step 2 - I plug the batteries in
step 3 - after the motor beeps I go full throttle until the motor beeps again then I move to full reverse until the motor does a double beep.
step 4 - I put the red jumper and the black jumper back on
step 5 - I unplug the batteries.

I've tried moving the receiver as far away as I can from the thing that is wrapped in white at the front of the truck (which I guess is the ubec?), but the wires will only allow me to move it so far and it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Am I missing something or doing something incorrect when setting it up?

!!!DO NOT PUT BLACK JUMPER BACK ON!!!

Check step 4, leave black jumper (enable/disable BEC) out...

well I tried it with the 3000 pack I have fully charged as well as without putting the black jumper back on and it's still doing the same thing.

The connector that came off is the one close the front of the board edge.

If there was a problem with it would it still let me go through the steps of programming it? For instance would it still beep and everything if there was a problem with the connector?

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by evader

well I tried it with the 3000 pack I have fully charged as well as without putting the black jumper back on and it's still doing the same thing.

The connector that came off is the one close the front of the board edge.

If there was a problem with it would it still let me go through the steps of programming it? For instance would it still beep and everything if there was a problem with the connector?

Every time you power it up it would be in programming mode, so I am not sure what ESC would do...is it normal operational mode probably not, so I think you need restore this pin first and then continue with testing. Now I am curious what is going on with built-in BEC, is it still alive or dead, after fighting with UBEC (5V vs. 6V).

I do not have BK ESC on hand to verify operation with open jumper.