It depends upon where you will be mounting the motor. If you plan on mounting the motor so that it will be just slightly above the lower chassis deck, then you can definitely use 3/16" aluminum.
SH Z-Car, Custom Crawler, 8s Savage, 12s XTM XLB 1/7 buggy, 4wd 4-link rear/IFS Pro4 truck, Custom Hyper 10 Short Course, Belt-Drive Mammoth ST 1/8 truggy, 4s 17.5 MM Pro HPI Blitz
I went ahead and bought another piece of aluminum it turned out to be 1/8". It looks like it will do the trick. I got an 1.5" cut out of both. The 1/4" stuff looks like it would be heavy and hard to dremel out. I think the 1/8" will be the way to go. I've learned that its almost impossible to get the right thing the first time!
Wow! That mount looks great. It's amazing what you can do. That does give me some ideas. Might be a good reason to buy a new jigsaw. Mine is like 30 years old. Barely works anymore. My dad bought it when I was about 10 Years old.
that's a real nice mount.. mine's cheap, and ugly.. but works great.. I use the 1/4" angle piece also... I just use the aluminum grinding disc, and grind two lines about 25mm apart, then drill out the middle piece for the motor...
Originally posted by Cartwheels Here is my Hyper 7. With a MBX diff in the foreground. My plan is Feigao 10L , MGM 160 and I be using 4s Lipos.
Is that a plastic spur on the MBX diff and will the diff bolt straight in Cartwheels,
I have a hyper truggy conversion just begging for some amps but I cant find a plasic spur for the spider center.
I have had some bad experince with the metal spurs :o
Yes, it is a plastic spur, the Ofna 51t. I will have to do some modifications to make the diff fit in. My plan is to move the rear diff holder post thingy towards the rear to fit in the slightly longer MBX diff. Then I will use the shorter MBX dogbone. I don't know for sure if this will work. I'm just hopeful at this point. It may take me awhile but I will post my progress.
Last edited by Cartwheels; 10.02.2005 at 02:26 PM.
I made a motor mount over the weekend. I ended up using the 1/4 " stuff. It came out pretty good as far as function should go. It's far from perfect but should do the trick. I tried to trim out the unnecessary weight and leave enough for structural integrity.
Here is a picture.
I did test to make sure the motor would move. What I had to do was use a piece of steel with two holes as a tool to hold my dremel in the proper spot. I used a screw and nut in one end of the steel and went thru on the bottom hole in my mount and then used the top hole for the proper arc. Drilled three holes first using the steel tool as the guide. Then dremeled out the arcing slot. Only trouble I had was the nut I used on my screw should have been a nylon lock nut because it came loose and I ended up with a fat spot. I think you can see it in the picture.