The 1515 will be a better choice for the Revo...IMO
1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
Very nice build on the M-Twin. Looks clean and glad it runs great.
Thanks Neil. I'll keep this in mind. Currently, with my single 700HO, i'm getting the same temp readings below. Good to know. Now the long wait till the 70-2000 Medusa gets delivered.
50mph may be a bit much to shoot for with the 1512, and I prefer a system that doesnt quite run at that rpm, but that said... I run my revo on a 1512/2.5d and 5s and it has no problem geared for 42mph and run on a track. In race conditions it comes off the track after 15 minutes solid run at a cool 140F. I have run a 1515/2.5d in the same setup and it came off around the same temps, but I had it geared a few mph faster. With the setup I have I think there is still some headroom to go up in gearing, I just dont need it for the track, but you should be able to squeeze a bit more from the motor than I am now.
I think you can make that motor work, just start on the conservative side (around 35-40 as others have said) and see how the temps do. if they are fine add a tooth or 2 untill you find the point where you start to run into the motor limit. I dont think you will be too disapointed. Those 1512s can put out some power.
I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...
I got my 1512/1Y today and installed it and that motor is crazy powerful. I geared it 58/20 and got the following temps after 15 minutes of hard bashing and speed runs:
ESC: 95'F
Motor: 135'F
Batteries: 70'F
I'm almost thinking I should kick it up to a 22T pinion if Neil's "Hot motor + cool esc = undergeared" is accurate. (And from what I've seen, Neil is usually very accurate) And it would put me up to about 46mph (adjusted) according to the calculator. Not that I have any objections with the 43mph I'm getting now.
I'm almost thinking I should kick it up to a 22T pinion if Neil's "Hot motor + cool esc = undergeared" is accurate. (And from what I've seen, Neil is usually very accurate)
It would be cheaper to get a 56 or 54T spur and have a similar effect.
It would be cheaper to get a 56 or 54T spur and have a similar effect.
unless of course you already have the pinion.
Hmmm, you are definitely right about that but I'm not sure the 54T spur would reach the 20T pinion gear. The 56T Spur might work but it wouldn't be much of a difference.
Because if its in an e-revo, I made a chart that might help;
(short answer is yes, if you mount the motor in the low-cg spot)
This is used in an e-revo with a tekno neu and RCM pinion gears...
unfortunatly, I dont have a 22t, but I got the 20t pinion to mesh with a spur as small as 53T...using the low-cg mounting holes;
It's an E-Revo but I'm using the single motor plate and cover so it's not mounted in that bracket. The single motor plate places the motor in the center but higher CoG battery position towards the front of the truck.
Well I got the proper motor plate and installed it. My LHS had to order me the correct cover though.
Unfortunately I foolishly used too much loctite when installed the pinion gear so I can't get the set screw out. I was able to get the Pinion off by heating it up and prying it off so I just need to go get a new pinion gear. I'll be doing that Tuesday so hopefully I'll have my E-Revo up and running then and will report back here.
So far though, no complaints about going with the 1512 over the 1515. It is a Killer motor and very well made. (I was amazed to see that the build date on the motor was less than two weeks before I received it.) No heat issues either.
Blue threadloc (tamiya stuff) is what I use to keep the pinion setscrew in place, rather than normal loctite. With the pinion off the motor now, you may be able to keep screwing the setscrew into it, and that will break the glue seal (if you havent stripped out the hex that is).