Design Flaw...

[RBMike]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Or just remove the bullets and solder wires directly to the PCB, but that will probably void the warranty...

Trying to avoid voiding the warrenty since we all know they will all go in for warrenty replacement before long. It seems like they are getting close to shipping the V3 so it's time to run the heck out of the V1's & V2's. Brake-em & get a new one.

I got my first MMM V2 today, probably the last unit from Mike as it's out of stock now. I've just finished soldering the connectors and programming with castle link. I noticed the tight connectors touching the casing. I bent the heat sink fins. I tried to test the heat sink against all the connectors with a multimeter, it turned out the heat sink is isolated from the circuit so even if any wire touches the heat sink, there would be no short. I also dismantled the switch and bent the rocker contact a little to have a tight contact. I tried to run it with 6-cell nimh with 7700 mamba motor on the table, no full throttle just about a third. I'll leave this on till the voltage on nimh goes down to 6 volts.

[RBMike]

Ya it's coated with something but that coating will wear off over time with vibration etc. (at least mine is).

Originally Posted by RBMike

Ya it's coated with something but that coating will wear off over time with vibration etc. (at least mine is).

I scraped the coating for the test leads to have contact, still no reading.

This is from Lutach's picture.
I see now where the problem comes in: if any two of the connectors will touch the heat sink, a short can occur.

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by clowkoy

This is from Lutach's picture.
I see now where the problem comes in: if any two of the connectors will touch the heat sink, a short can occur.

Exactly. The heatsink is mounted to the board using non-electrically conductive thermal epoxy, and the FETs it's mounted to do not have any exposed metal.

CC made a good change in V3 to have wires soldered to the battery side of the board.

[RBMike]

Originally Posted by clowkoy

This is from Lutach's picture.
I see now where the problem comes in: if any two of the connectors will touch the heat sink, a short can occur.

Now your with me.

[BrianG]

Eek! I'm glad I have a V1. IMO, that is unacceptable - too much of a risk there.

[emaxxnitro]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Eek! I'm glad I have a V1. IMO, that is unacceptable - too much of a risk there.

i believe this is why on the v3 the battery wires will be soldered directly to the pcb.

[lutach]

That's why I'm just waiting patiently until I see how the V3's are so I can send mine in to get it replaced.

And imagine if the 2 power wires short!
Brian, is the castle link included with the monster same as the regular castle link (for other mambas) that's sold separately? I do have the regular castle link for my sidewinder.

[bdebde]

Originally Posted by clowkoy

And imagine if the 2 power wires short!
Brian, is the castle link included with the monster same as the regular castle link (for other mambas) that's sold separately? I do have the regular castle link for my sidewinder.

Castlelink is included with the MMM

[jnev]

Originally Posted by bdebde

Castlelink is included with the MMM

Unfortunately, I wish they'd sell it for $10 cheaper and sell it without the Castle Link. I have 5 Castle Link set ups at the moment... 3 from 3 different MMM ESCs (all still working by the way ), and 2 from 2 different 1/18 scale systems... Oh well, not really a big complaint... I can just sell them separately.

[rhylsadar]

hi

- i sawed off the motorbullets very very carefully
- ream them so that there is no contact with the heatsink anymore
- removed the whole hardcase and small fan.
- put a bigger foam under the esc and a 40*40*20mm fan (feed in by the batteries not the bec) on the heastsink
- soldered the motorwires directly on the board
- disable the esc bec
- and shrunk the whole thing with a big heat shrink tube.

i'll see how it will hold up.

bye
rhylsadar

I was just thinking of ordering one of the v2s if I could get it cheap and pretty much de-casing it, switching fans and removing the switch. That SHOULD make it work. What do you think? I would still get a V3 if its good, but this would hold me over and be extremely cheap.